Creative 5.1 SBS 560, no sound

[HikaruGunner]

So I have a Creative SBS 560 sound system (2.1 sound system for pc), don't work for quite some time. Power is on, green light is on when is plugged to electricity, but I don't get any sound.

So I disassembled the subwoofer so I can get access to the eletronics, here are some pics:



Any tips for testing to see if there is a way to fix this system?

 

[Martaine2005]

Your first check should surely be the audio cables from the PC to the surround unit.
Have you tested the unit on a different audio source?

Martin

 

[HikaruGunner]

Yes I tested it with a mp3 player, same thing, no sound from speakers but the green led from the wired controller lights up.

Unfortunately the way it's designed I cant swap the audio cables with other ones to test (see picture below of controller), is it possible to test them with a multimeter? I have one but know next to nothing about eletronics.

 

[Martaine2005]

Does the ‘creative’ controller have screws underneath?.
You will need to open it to test each wire with your multimeter in continuity mode.
Each jack has a T, R ,S. Tip, Ring and Sleeve. Stereo has two Rs, T, R,R,S.
Most of these audio cables fail open circuit rather than short circuit. It’s because one internal wire breaks.

Edit: TRRS is normally with a microphone. TRS is stereo.

Martin

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir HikaruGunner . . . . . (Japonie-Englee ?)

Here is a mark up diagram of what the different connectors pins are routed to within your main unit..
With one variance . . . . . of your plug colors, being so pale that the Orange appears more of a pale Orange / Yellow blend, with the Black being true Black and the Green being pale also.
If you used an MP4 audio test source, that would be dependent upon it having a female output connector . . . . or gender adapter.

Since you have nothing but a Multimeter (analog ? ) / DVM, lets just use a NEANDERTHAL test procedure.
Either hook up all speakers or walk I speaker between the different testing inputs as you do them.
With the possible exception of the RED /BLACK wire pair which I assume to have been un soldered from the units woofer speaker, where you might reconnect using jumper wires or extra wire pair lengths.
You power up and . . . .say . . . .opt to test the Green connector first, with it being all speakered up.
Check that your Multimeter (analog ?) /DVM is in its OHM or DIODE test mode.
Run the remote volume control to max and take one /either ohmmeter test lead and finger /grip hold it to the innermost ground connection and then use the other ohmmeter probe and just do a very quick " blip" connect to the proper ring that you have a speaker monitoring. It should give a static sound burst if the amp is amping for that speaker.
Proceed thru all of the other 4 speaker output options.
Inform us accordingly . . . . . also look at your meter and if being an el-cheapo, they might have also put a capacitance test capability on it . . .tell us if so.

DIAGRAM - I - COM . . . . .


73's de Edd . . . . .


I may not be totally perfect, but there are certain parts of me that are excellent.


.

 

[HikaruGunner]

Does the ‘creative’ controller have screws underneath?.
You will need to open it to test each wire with your multimeter in continuity mode.
Each jack has a T, R ,S. Tip, Ring and Sleeve. Stereo has two Rs, T, R,R,S.
Most of these audio cables fail open circuit rather than short circuit. It’s because one internal wire breaks.

Edit: TRRS is normally with a microphone. TRS is stereo.

Martin

Yes I opened the volume controller, here are some pics:


I'm not sure how to test them. If I use the probes of the multimeter in continuity mode with the green wire, there are some places on the volume controller PCB that report continuity, but since there are so many wires I don't know wich ones I should be testing.

Sir HikaruGunner . . . . . (Japonie-Englee ?)

Here is a mark up diagram of what the different connectors pins are routed to within your main unit..
With one variance . . . . . of your plug colors, being so pale that the Orange appears more of a pale Orange / Yellow blend, with the Black being true Black and the Green being pale also.
If you used an MP4 audio test source, that would be dependent upon it having a female output connector . . . . or gender adapter.

Since you have nothing but a Multimeter (analog ? ) / DVM, lets just use a NEANDERTHAL test procedure.
Either hook up all speakers or walk I speaker between the different testing inputs as you do them.
With the possible exception of the RED /BLACK wire pair which I assume to have been un soldered from the units woofer speaker, where you might reconnect using jumper wires or extra wire pair lengths.
You power up and . . . .say . . . .opt to test the Green connector first, with it being all speakered up.
Check that your Multimeter (analog ?) /DVM is in its OHM or DIODE test mode.
Run the remote volume control to max and take one /either ohmmeter test lead and finger /grip hold it to the innermost ground connection and then use the other ohmmeter probe and just do a very quick " blip" connect to the proper ring that you have a speaker monitoring. It should give a static sound burst if the amp is amping for that speaker.
Proceed thru all of the other 4 speaker output options.
Inform us accordingly . . . . . also look at your meter and if being an el-cheapo, they might have also put a capacitance test capability on it . . .tell us if so.

DIAGRAM - I - COM . . . . .


73's de Edd . . . . .


I may not be totally perfect, but there are certain parts of me that are excellent.


.

I'm portuguese, good sir.

Using the diagram you provided, I used a probe on the ground ring of the green jack, then tapped the other probe on the front left ring (with the system powered up and volume at max), but no sound burst at all.

I did try this technique on a set of another speakers I own, Creative DTT 2200, this ones still work perfectly, and I did heard the sound burst, so I know that I am performing the technique right.

Thanks for the help.