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Can't identify a single chip from my circuit board. Need help.

I have my car ECU here (its a second hand one), I can not seem to search for the part number in google and find out what each IC is?

None of my numbers on the chips match anything. I have tried a few other sites as well.

Chip at location U16:
014
P11SR
85741

U5:
185
16202476
E87J
KQQECo144F

U2:
16238528
W014214Y87
466

Y3:
16218986
TO144-16J49
466

U6:
16212886
C116703 04
519 Fnr0138 C

I have included a photo of the board.

I am looking for the EEPROM, and hoping I can desolder it and put my other EEPROM onto this replacement board so that the replacement ECU will work in the car. So if I can get some information from the part numbers in the chips I should be able to workout what chip is the EEPROM.

5xIY8DU.jpg



 
To what end? You should be able to access and reprogram the EPROM using the ODBII bus in the vehicle.
In-house codes are notorious for identifying.

The EPROM is the device under the blue clip holder........
 
Yeah I know, if I had the proper tool to read the computer etc etc. Under the blue holder, okay I will look further into that...

Well I did swap that part under the blue clip over, and the car did not start. So I am not 100% convinced that chip stores the information needed for the key/rfid/icu to work. I will research further into that EPROM chip.
 
I am not 100% convinced that chip stores the information needed for the key/rfid/icu to work.
Helps if you mention it in your opening post......

IIRC the key/rfid system isn't in the ECU anyway - it's usually a separate module. On my car it's located behind the rear view mirror.

Well I did swap that part under the blue clip over
with what? The EPROMS are (potentially) customised to the vehicle - although one from an identical model should still work.
 
I had the ECU that I bought from the wreckers plugged into my car. Because it would not start, I tried taking out the blue EPROM and putting the blue EPROM from my original ECU into the board. No go. Found out that it is called the MemCal.......

Yes my car has the key, rfid antenna, ICU (ignition control unit), and the ECU/PCM...
The key speaks to the ICU box (which is under the plastic of the steering column) then the ICU talks to the ECU and generates a number and sends that back to the ICU. Then if it's all good it allows the ignition and injector circuits to turn on.

So I have two solutions that I want to try. The reason for this replacement ECU is because I have a missfire on sparkplug lead 3 and sometimes even lead 2 I thought as well. Yes I have replaced everything else. I suspect I have a faulty chip/mosfet etc that drives the ignition circuits in the ECU.
Solution one would be to swap over components and try to physically fix and replace the faulty part that way. I have swapped over two mosfets that are on the ignition circuit and they are the very last components before the pcb traces go to the big wiring harness plugs. There was no change in the missfire after I did this. It must be something further upstream. I have another four larger mosfet looking parts I can swap over. Then it's all the surface mounted chips.

The second solution would be to find the specific surface mount chip that stores the VIN matched code or what ever it is, and put the one from the ECU that works with my car onto the replacement ECU I bought from the wreckers.

Solution 3 could be to buy a kit online to read the internal codes and reprogram myself. Solution 4 would be take it to some mechanic to do.
 
The chances of an internal program error causing a misfire is as good as zero - more so if it's intermittent. What make/model vehicle are you working on?

Does the ECU drive the spark plugs directly? There is an ignition module (possibly one per cylinder) inbetween. Swap them around and see if the misfire changes place.

Have you done a compression test on the cylinder?

I have swapped over two mosfets that are on the ignition circuit

How do only two MOSFETs control 4 (or 6 or 8) cylinders?
 
I know that it uses what they call a waste spark ignition. There is one physical coil pack and inside the case there are two separate coils. It's a 4cylinder engine, and it only needs two switching circuits for the ignition. So off the top of my head I think cylinders 1 and 4 fire together and 2 and 3 fire together. So one cylinder will be charged with the air/fuel mix and is ready for a spark. The spark is shot down two spark plug wires at the same time where only the one cylinder actually needs it, the other spark is "wasted" as it goes to a cylinder that is not actually needing a spark.

Yep compression is good, shaved head, new valve stem seals.

Yes if I can work out what part is the actual ignition module components I'd like to swap the with the parts from the replacement ecu.

I do not think it is an internal software based issue.

The car is a Holden Rodeo, 2002, 4cylinder, petrol, engine model C22ne.
 
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