A real dumb PTH PCB layout question

[Glenn Ashmore]

I am in the process of laying out a board for a watermaker control. It
is not all that complicated but I will be making up 5 copies for other
boaters who want to do their own assembly. I have gotten reasonably
good at pasting and baking SMD boards but that is way beyond what these
guys can tackle so I am going with a 2 sided PTH board.

Now for the dumb question. Which side should I put the traces on? I
usually put traces on the component side and use the back as a ground
plane but I am wondering if they might get more reliable solder joints
with the traces on the back. Would it make any difference?


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

 

[Aaron Pasteris]

If the board has plated holes, then they should not have any trouble getting
a reliable joint from either side of the board.

Without plated holes put the traces on the "solder" side and it will be much
easier to solder.

Make sure the boards are conformal coated if they are going to see any
marine use - the salt will eat them very quickly if not protected.

Aaron

 

[The Real Andy]

I am in the process of laying out a board for a watermaker control. It
is not all that complicated but I will be making up 5 copies for other
boaters who want to do their own assembly. I have gotten reasonably
good at pasting and baking SMD boards but that is way beyond what these
guys can tackle so I am going with a 2 sided PTH board.

Now for the dumb question. Which side should I put the traces on? I
usually put traces on the component side and use the back as a ground
plane but I am wondering if they might get more reliable solder joints
with the traces on the back. Would it make any difference?

Place the tracks on the solder side. If you have to repair it down the
track, you will not regret doing it this way. You may also want to make the
pads as large as possible if it is being built by amatuers.


PS, being a yachtie myself i have checked out your site a few times. Last
time I visited it had not been update in a while. Hows the boat going?

 

[Glenn Ashmore]

Thanks. Maybe I am worrying to much about these guys' soldering talent.
They will be plated holes. I usually get my boards done by
Advanced Circuits but for these I am going to try the $13 proto-special
at PCB FabExpress.

I am dosing everything with silicone confromal coating and will
recommend it to all the "assemblers".

If the board has plated holes, then they should not have any trouble getting
a reliable joint from either side of the board.

Without plated holes put the traces on the "solder" side and it will be much
easier to solder.

Make sure the boards are conformal coated if they are going to see any
marine use - the salt will eat them very quickly if not protected.

Aaron

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

 

[Glenn Ashmore]

Place the tracks on the solder side. If you have to repair it down the
track, you will not regret doing it this way. You may also want to make the
pads as large as possible if it is being built by amatuers.


PS, being a yachtie myself i have checked out your site a few times. Last
time I visited it had not been update in a while. Hows the boat going?

Moving along much faster than the web site. I did find time to
post a couple of pages on the homebrew watermaker and building the
carbon fiber rudder. (The PCB for the watermaker is what this post is
about.) Hopefully I will get a page for the remote light switch and
placing the engine up in a few weeks.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com