Supply voltage should be 14v best case when the vehicle is running. If I have not seen any dropout on the power rails yet. I will order the regulator you suggest.
Good. Or you could use a variable regulator such as an LM317 so you could set the output voltage to 10V for example, or a low dropout regulator that doesn't need so much voltage between its input and output. Micrel make a nice range with output currents of 1.5A, 3A, 5A and even 7.5A. See
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MIC29300-12WT/576-1118-ND/771587.
You should also look into load dump:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_dump because you should protect your circuit from it. A bit of series resistance and a clamp of some kind is good - a MOV (metal oxide varistor) and/or a big TVS (transient voltage suppressor) diode. This is outside my experience but I suggest you do some Googling for load dump protection in automotive electronics otherwise your circuit might suffer a meltdown one day in the future if you don't hold your tongue at the right angle when you turn the ignition off! I suggest the Littelfuse V18ZA40 MOV with a clamping voltage of 37V at 20A as a starting point.
Yes it's from the ECU and there is no voltage change change when the injectors are running when I test directly off the pedal itself.
OK, good. Then at least you have a chance of avoiding the problem!
So right now the circut is on a breadboard and all grounds are connected to the same rail. Last night I moved the MOSFETs onto it's own breadboard and connected it to the main ground lug in the engine compartment. It seemed to fix the problem with the voltage dropping and freqency changing. However I burned up 2 of MOSFETs in just a few minutes this way

. Is it possible now that my MOSFETs are closer to the injector rail I have greater inductive spiking that is overcoming my flyback diode and burning up the MOSFET?
I would definitely not put the MOSFET on a breadboard. The currents are far too high. Here's my suggestion. The diagram shows everything except the insulators.
I'm assuming that the MOSFET has a metal tab. You need to insulate the MOSFET from the sheet using an insulating pad (a thin mica sheet or a silicone-impregnated pad) between the MOSFET tab and the metal, and an insulating collar around the mounting screw.
The tag marked D must make direct contact with the tab of the MOSFET. If the MOSFET has a full plastic package, you'll have to connect to the middle pin, instead of cutting it off as shown in the drawing.
The other tag, connected to the cathode of the big back EMF suppression diode, also needs to be insulated from the aluminium sheet, since it has +12V on it.
I didn't label the back EMF suppression diode, but it's very important. Connecting it next to the MOSFET gives the best protection for the MOSFET.
I've shown the wide copper area on the stripboard being screwed into the aluminium sheet. This is the 0V reference so it's OK to have an electrical connection. In fact it's probably best to have the aluminium sheet connected to 0V. This wide track can be formed by bridging two (or even three) adjacent tracks together using solder or some sort of braided wire.
The gate (left hand pin) connects to a single track on the stripboard, which connects to a 12V 1/2W zener to the source, and a 10 ohm series resistor. This zener protects the gate from voltages that could damage the device.
I've added a big capacitor, marked "DECOUPLING CAP", from +12V to 0V. This should be a good quality ceramic or film capacitor such as
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECQ-E1106KF/EF1106-ND/56416 (10 µF, 100V). The value isn't important but I suggest at least 1 µF.
You can see how I've kept the high-current paths independent of the low-current paths.
Oh ok, I thought that logic level MOSFETs have a gate driver type already built in?
No! That would be nice, wouldn't it. No; they just have a lower gate-source threshold voltage so you can drive them from a circuit operating from a low voltage, e.g. 5V instead of 12V.
oops, sorry, I jumped in there.
Thanks Steve
