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Wiring question on electric bike

Hello,
I have an electric bike and needed to replace the throttle. Out of the throttle there is a thin wire which contains 4 small wires (yellow, green, blue and red) going into a connector which connects the the battery power supply. I bought the exact same throttle part # on ebay but it turns out the wiring coming out of the throttle is not the same. There is a thicker wire coming out of the throttle this one containing 7 wires (red, black, white into one connector), (green and gray into another), and (yellow and brown into a third connector). The replacement throttles come in 24v, 36v, and 48v. The one I bought is 24v but the battery on the bike is a 12v? I'm confused... Can I use the 24v throttle I have which is the same except for the wiring? and if so which 4 wires of the 7 go into the connector? (i have a yellow, green, and red wire but no blue?).
 
We might as well toss a dice or pick colours at random to give you an answer to this! You supply no information at all.

No bike make/model, no throttle make/model, no pictures (300kb max upload here).

Without something to go on other than a list of colours we aren't psychic!
 
Sorry about so many pictures! The first picture is of the broken throttle. The second with the 7 wires is from the new 24V throttle. The third with the 4 wires and one connector is the one on the bike now. I found out from the bike video the battery I have is 48V but the replacement 48V throttle options I see have 7 or even 8 wires. None have only the 4? I bought the replacement throttle on Amazon and the seller did not say what voltage it was. Can this still work?
 
I also found this online. it matches the 4 wire configuration i have
 

Attachments

  • Prodeco throttle assy.0001.pdf
    15.8 KB · Views: 3
See the problem here is, wiring does not follow any "McGyver" protocol.
Off hand I'd say your option to use the replacement is ruled out, at this stage at least.
Differing voltages, differing conductor numbers, the new and old unit could be almost anything.
Only way to know would be open up the old unit and do some wiring drawings including as much info as you can muster.
Sorry but i do not see the connection between the Prodeco throttle and any of the other wiring in any way.
Old saying, a picture is worth a thousand words and it applies here in reference to wiring diagram and your description.
Probobly makes perfect sense to you as you have everything in front of you there but here, it's not much sense at all, sorry.
 
I have a few more pictures. I tried to open the unit to see the wiring inside the issue is the throttle needs to be removed first to open it up and I see no way the do that/ I might be glued. I also found a wiring diagram from the vendor on the new unit & wires but mine only has 4?)1 brand and model.jpg 1 diagram.jpg 1 new throttle and gauge .jpg 1 Opening.jpg .
Two questions:
1) if the battery is 48V then I assume I need a 48 volt throttle as well? (its a combo of a throttle and gauge telling you how much battery power is left)
2) The 48V throttle (same part #) I see has the 7 wires instead of the 4. So I assume I'll need to get the 48V and still try and change the wiring?
 
Of the 48v, no idea without a circuit.
Could be, more than likely are , internal drop down regulators for the controls.
Makes no sense to run that at what might be considered a " high voltage".
 

hevans1944

Hop - AC8NS
As MANY others here have stated: reduce the size of the image you are uploading until you no longer receive error messages.

This sometimes happens to me because almost all of my image SOURCES are high-resolution. Always check the file size of the image you want to upload to this forum. If it is too large to upload, import it into something simple, for example Microsoft Paint, and then fiddle with the controls until you get it reduced to a size that will upload. Be sure to save a copy, NOT the image you just fiddled with. You may have use for the large, high-resolution image later on down the road.
 
fair comment but 300kb is still a joke unless its a dot to dot,most forums i go on are 5000kb total not 300kb.
 
fair comment but 300kb is still a joke unless its a dot to dot,most forums i go on are 5000kb total not 300kb.

Why..?
There are many photos posted in here that show detail to the Nth degree with the current requirements, enough for detailed replies.
I'm sure if you take the the to look instead of complaining you would instantly see.
 
Sir pilotbear [mod edit: changed addressee] . . . . .

I have amassed all of your related info into one inclusive illustration . . . . now check it owwwwwwwwwww-ut.

"Unitized" Techno Illustration . . . . .

Bike-Controller-Connections.png




I do believe that your original unit has the switch within the unit has the S1 switch in series with the +5VDC line that supplies that power to the Hall sensor.
On this harness it seems that they have a separately isolated switch that you now have to insert between the +5VDC powering source and the power feed line to the Hall sensor in the throttle housing.
See my GREY blocks of highlighting.
Your extra GREY wire I think will test out to be another shared ground with the universally accepted / color coded BLACK wire.
The right bottom corners explanations explain the cross color coding of the other connections.
HOMEWORK . . . . . . .
Confirm 0 ohms between new throttle wiring harness GREY and BLACK wires .
Test the ohmmage between YELLOW and BROWN throttle switch.


Power up the bike with the dangling 4 pin connector shown.
Now we done gonna went and measure its voltages es es ess'es.
Power on at the bike . . . .
Place metering in DC mode . . . . . ranged . . . . . to expect no more than the main battery voltage.
RED meter leads probe to YELLOW wire and BLACK meter leads probe to BLUE Ground / Battery negative and expect battery charged voltage.
BLACK meter leads probe to BLUE Ground / Battery negative stays there and RED meter leads probe is moved to RED lead to see that it is only
+5 VDC, as that is as much as we want to see be feeding that Hall device within the throttle handle.

Waiting for your feedback . . . . . .and then . . . . on to the proper / correct wiring between your 4 pin connector and the new control. harness.

73's de Edd

An ounce of application is worth a ton of abstraction..


.
 
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I have a few more pictures. I tried to open the unit to see the wiring inside the issue is the throttle needs to be removed first to open it up and I see no way the do that/ I might be glued. I also found a wiring diagram from the vendor on the new unit & wires but mine only has 4?)View attachment 55119 View attachment 55120 View attachment 55121 View attachment 55122 .
Two questions:
1) if the battery is 48V then I assume I need a 48 volt throttle as well? (its a combo of a throttle and gauge telling you how much battery power is left)
2) The 48V throttle (same part #) I see has the 7 wires instead of the 4. So I assume I'll need to get the 48V and still try and change the wiring?
as a word of warning i brought one of these,throttle didnt work,had to renew the hall sensor,basicaly more [mod edit. removed pejorative reference] junk with no q/c!
 
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Most humble and bumbled apologies . . .I did not go quite far enough back, to see that post REALLY was initiated by
. . . . .pilotbear,


OH TAY ? as I infrequently, if ever, catch any HELL! s
 
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hevans1944

Hop - AC8NS
Why..?
There are many photos posted in here that show detail to the Nth degree with the current requirements, enough for detailed replies.
I'm sure if you take the the to look instead of complaining you would instantly see.

I agree with @Bluejets.

If a larger image file with more resolution is necessary to communicate a concept or an idea, there are several solutions available. My favorite is an email attachment, but that removes the higher-resolution image from discussion in the Electronics Point forums. And you will need an email address to send your image to... or maybe that's too? Try a private message to obtain an email address from anyone who complains about the resolution of your uploaded image.
 
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