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Where can I find these components other than china?? FETS and DC-DC IC's etc.

So on another thread I am looking for help to find out what component are causing a misfire with my car.

I managed to swap over two Mosfets, a 32 pin surface mounted chip, a 15 pin Fet looking thing from a donor ECU board.
(None of those parts made any difference to the misfire of the engine).

So tonight I come home and remove another 15 pin Fet looking thing, put it in the ECU and the engine does not start. Then I freak out and put the original part back in, and the engine will not start with that either...arghhhh!!!

I guess I must have overheated the part when I was hot airing it off the board??? I find that strange because I was able to remove other parts using the same technique and they did not get cooked and have worked fine, then this happens.

So I have managed to find a website that lists the components and they give a basis quick description of what they are used for int the circuit. The problem is that they are from China. How can I find a new component that will be quicker than 5-20 postage time???

These are the only part numbers that I have managed to find so far.

66285
55199 - this is the one I cooked by the sounds of things.
09380232
16205799
42827
16212886


This is the one I need.....

https://www.vipprogrammer.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2107
 

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Those are all manufacturers in-house numbers - they won't be recognised by any 'domestic' supplier listing and I don't know where to get a cross-reference for them (if such exists).

I still find that your assumption that there is something wrong with the ECU to be suspect - they are usually very, very reliable. Regardless, replacing parts on an ad-hoc basis isn't resolving anything - far from it. You've introduced additional faults by making such changes when, most likely, none existed before!

It should be possible to power the ECU and simulate the inputs necessary to get it to 'do it's thing' and take the required measurements to determine where a fault lies - if one exists. Most inputs are simple DC voltages (0-5V or 0-12V) that can be simulated using potentiometers.

Have you tried this method?

If all else fails, just fit another ECU (swapping out your EPROM(s))
 
What evidence did you have that the ECU is causing the misfires? Is this vehicle common in Australia so you could just pull an entire ECU out of one from similar if not same model year and engine at a junk yard? Get it close enough and you won't need to swap the PROM.
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Replacing one part with another random part that has the same number of connections is unlikely to work, and may cause damage.

You don't actually say, but I'll presume you replaced parts with others having identical markings.

You may have damaged the board and a closeup image of both sides (where you have soldered a through hole part) may help us find a problem.

Also, did you mount the device to the heatsink before soldering it, or attempt to do so afterwards? The latter approach will cause problems.
 
They are exact same part numbers, just swapping them over. I soldered it first then bolted it to the heatsink.

Are you saying that maybe if it was solid and rigid when I bolted it to the heatsink I could have damaged the part?
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
It is more likely that you damaged the board if you did it this way. But yeah you can damage the component too.
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
The images aren't very good (at least not on my phone) and from then the pads look dull. I interpreted this as then bring possibly pulled off. Since you have the real thing you can check for sure.
 
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