What's the best way to manage two different components from a single Button Control ?

[Subsim]

Hello,

I am very new to electronic hobbies. In fact, I became interested recently as an outgrowth of my scale modeling hobby. I have a ballistic missile sub model I am working on and after seeing some cool dioramas of ships with fire effects, I want to try that as well. Therefore, I need to add some small electronic components.

I've watched a bunch of videos to learn about resistors and LEDs, and that has really interested me in electronic hobbies in general!

I have two components I want to add to my model, one is a flickering fire LED set, and the other is a sound module.

The sound module is set up for 3 AA batteries, the LED for 9v. Each has its own button. What I want to try and do it wire both from 9v and one button along with another non-flickering LED.

I have all the components, and I kinda halfway think I know how to make this work from a single 9v supply trough a single button, but before I start hacking and splicing I thought I would try and get some expert guidance. have an assortment of 1/4w resistors, so if I need to lower the voltage on the 9v going to the sound module, I'm set there.

Love to hear some ideas and learn what would work and why, thanks!

Neal

 

[Subsim]

Just a thought: split off the red/black wires after the LED 9v button to the sound module, add in a resistor to reduce voltage to 4.5v, and jump the sound module button? If I had to take a wild ass guess, that's what I would do.

 

[kellys_eye]

You could use a different 'button' - there are three-position toggle switches available ON-OFF-ON. The switch is, as the logo (left) shows 'off' in its central position and applies power to the device connected to the left side or the right side depending on which way the toggle is moved. The switch can be 'latching' (i.e. remains in the position set) or non-latching (i.e. returns to the off position when you let go) - your choice.

If you put your supply voltage to the centre pin and take the left-hand commector to one device, the right hand connector to the other device then you power one or the other when the switch is moved. You might have to add a voltage regulator to get away with using one power pack (9V) - dropping the 9V supply to lights down to 4.5V for the sound module.

 

[Martaine2005]

The link you provided says 3 volt or 5 to 12V for the LEDs.
Why 9V? Run both with a phone or USB 5V adapter/charger.
One simple switch.

“These Fire Kits are ready for either 3 Volt DC, 5-12 Volt DC battery or regulated adapter, or 7-19 Volt AC/DCC/DC operation”.

Martin

 

[Bluejets]

I'm guessing you have to select the model you need on the link shown so if the Op already has the device............

DPST switch...keep current separate supplies, common the negatives.

Or....Standard STSP switch and 9v to LED and 9V to a dc dc converter set to 4.5 for the sound module.

Note:- I suspect your 9V is a smoke alarm battery....for long run time suggest a plug pack or AA cells.

 

[Subsim]

Hmm... yeah, Bluejets is right, I have the 5mm LEDs with the 9v setup. Sorry, I forgot there several choices when I made the first post here. I selected the 9v because I want this where AC power is not nearby.

Yes, a DPST, that's great, very simple. I love that.

Like this?

Or even better!

 

[Bluejets]

There are momentary push buttons also (smaller than the toggle unit you show) but the DPDT arrangement might be easier to find.
Still connect as before though.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/6mm-Miniature-2A-250V-Double-Pole_62249258701.html

 

[Subsim]

Thanks! I ordered the DPST military style switch from Amazon, I will incorporate it into a base.

Until now I did not know anything about switches, so this was really helpful.