Watson's Weston Meter Mystery

[Watson A.Name - \Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\]

Watson's Weston Meter Mystery

Help me solve this Weston Meter Mystery. I got this good ol' Weston
Voltmeter at the Antique Telephone Collectors Ass'n show this weekend,
and it works great on the 3V range. I want to do a little modifying.
It has three binding posts on the top, 3V, 150V and 300VDC. I want to
change the resistors on the 150 and/or 300VDC ranges to make them 15
and/or 30VDC. I took the four corner screws out but the case won't
budge. I've attached a pic of it, with the enlarged screwhead that
maybe isn't a screw head, or whatever, and posted it to ABSE. Maybe
someone has had experience with getting these apart. Thanks for any
info.


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[Robert Baer]

Watson's Weston Meter Mystery

Help me solve this Weston Meter Mystery. I got this good ol' Weston
Voltmeter at the Antique Telephone Collectors Ass'n show this weekend,
and it works great on the 3V range. I want to do a little modifying.
It has three binding posts on the top, 3V, 150V and 300VDC. I want to
change the resistors on the 150 and/or 300VDC ranges to make them 15
and/or 30VDC. I took the four corner screws out but the case won't
budge. I've attached a pic of it, with the enlarged screwhead that
maybe isn't a screw head, or whatever, and posted it to ABSE. Maybe
someone has had experience with getting these apart. Thanks for any
info.

I have a Weston Microammeter, and the trick to it was to remove the
binding post knobs on the face (meter surface), the range switch on the
face, then the screws on the back (the zeroing knob remained as a part
of the case), then remove the screws on the back.
In your case, look for "standoff" bumpers on the back and see if there
are screws hiding underneath.
Seems to me that the back should come off; look for a parting line.

Also carefully and with minimal force, pry it apart when all screws
(except for the "W" screws) are out, to see where the resistance
point(s) may be - in other words, does it seem that the "W" points are
holding?
If it seems that the "W" points are the only remaining fasteners, try
(a) soak 8 HR+ with lubricating screw-removal liquid (forget the name
now and too lazy do dig it out), (b) make a mold of the head and from
that mold, a screwdriver (plastic or low MP metal to form in mold).
Align the home-made scerwdriver and tap lightly with with hammer (to
help loosen scerw) while turning.
This might work well enough to keep the head shape intact, even if of
plastic.
Worst case is to break the plastic "W" off and drill the head off;
replace with a screw that has a head that matches the others.