Wall wart replacement

[C4reynol]

Hello all,

I do not have very much electronics knowledge so I have trying to find a part that my 2y/o son broke for a 8ft light up tree my wife has in our living room. I am looking to replace the plug or find one that I can swap out and hard wire it to a new adaptor if I can find a new female ac adaptor. The ac adaptor has 2 holes in it for the prongs. Any help or place to look for a replacement part would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[davenn]

hi and welcome to EP

ummm as far as ratings go get one the same, tho the output current can be the stated 0.65A ( 650mA) or greater

my main worry is ... what is that threaded? bit at the bottom ??
if it is something that is specific to that xmas light unit, then you wont buy one off the shelf at an electronics store
the only way would be to buy another set of lights using the same plugpack

ALSO !!! many lights plugpacks have a switch on them for setting the flashing sequence of the lights
some also have another switch for setting the xmas tune ( carol)

does your one have either of these ?


Dave

 

[dorke]

Is it "broken" but still working?
If so, electrical isolation tape where the plastic is broken may solve this.

 

[C4reynol]

hi and welcome to EP

ummm as far as ratings go get one the same, tho the output current can be the stated 0.65A ( 650mA) or greater

my main worry is ... what is that threaded? bit at the bottom ??
if it is something that is specific to that xmas light unit, then you wont buy one off the shelf at an electronics store
the only way would be to buy another set of lights using the same plugpack

ALSO !!! many lights plugpacks have a switch on them for setting the flashing sequence of the lights
some also have another switch for setting the xmas tune ( carol)

does your one have either of these ?


Dave

Hi Dave,

Thanks for answering so quickly. The threading at the bottom is for outdoor use and has the two female plugs within it to attach to the wire (only use indoors) and there is no switch on the plug. I guess what I was thinking is if I could find another plug with similar outflow metrics then I could simply strip out the wires on the tree and then tie into the new plug. I know, I have no idea what I am probably getting myself into. I don't really feel like spending $250 on another huge tree for the wife though, so trying to look for a more inexpensive fix.

The problem I was having with my idea was that everything that I could find for 24v plugs has either .6a or .7a so not sure what that means. The prongs are loose on the plug and I do still the about 4 pieces that my son broke off, so maybe another option would be to glue/tape it back together I just worries about starting a fire, being so close to the prongs in the outlet.

Any advice you can provide would be greatly appreciate.

Thanks again,
Chris

 

[C4reynol]

Is it "broken" but still working?
If so, electrical isolation tape where the plastic is broken may solve this.

Thank you in getting back to me. My only concern is that the prongs are loose on the plug without the plastic pieces. I do still the about 4 pieces that my son broke off, so maybe another option would be to glue/tape it back together I just worries about starting a fire, being so close to the prongs in the outlet. Is there a type of glue/tape that you can recommend. I have the basic electrical tape I just worry about being so close to the outlet as I will have to tape right by the prongs.

Thanks again,
Chris

 

[dorke]

I think a non-conductive epoxy glue should do the work.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir C4reynol . . . . . . .

Should that be my problem to solve I would get one of the triple adapters shown at the left by virtue of its plastic
construction.
The ones to the right are no-no s due to HDPE construction medium or molecular nylon construction. They wont adhere to and FIRMLY bond with adhesives as compared to my reference unit.

The center connector just plugs onto yours and leaving a new connector on the outside.
Due to a skewed depth of field I cannot positively ascertain if your old unit is polarized . . . . .wide blade . . .narrow blade. Possibly appearing as wide blade on front left ?
So mate them accordingly.
The whitened area represents where you have original plastic missing, possibly with a thin sheet missing from the pink area.
You get two types of some hardware store epoxies as being shown at the left and the conventional more syrupy clear type shown at the right as two part tubes..
You knead the left side clay types until it blends into one color and it softens and warms up from both chemical action and your hands heat transference.
MOVE QUICKLY from that stage as it starts to harden QUICKLY and you have t get it over and molded/pressed into the cavities of the areas that were lost and press the adapter to it and conform to it.
Once you have it all contoured . . . . it then sets up rock hard for you.
Initially, to assure better inter bonding use a rasp or rough sandpaper to rough up the mating surfaces.
The final bonding would be around edges with the two part, which you might have to break up into 4 timed stages due to positioning in order to avoid running off, of of the somewhat syrupy mix from the seams between the two surfaces..Or use masking tape strips to build up dams to restrict any run off.

Thassssit . . . . .

DEPICTION OF RELEVANT APPLICATION:




73s de Edd