R
Rez
I have a flame scanner made by UV-eye, just the bulb part. It consists
of a UV sensor bulb with a 1K resistor (looks like 1/2 watt) on each
leg, and two 600V wires/leads. As far as I can determine, it takes a
minimum of 560VDC to make it conduct. I think it's rated at 600V, it's
suggested that 600V rated wire be used to connect it. But I don't know
the current ratings. UV Eye part number 4-314-1 for the bulb and UV1a
is the part number for the scanner assembly. I can't find any other
info.
As far as the bulbs operation: It has a rarified gas inside. If enough
voltage is applied the bulb "avalanches" (conducts then opens)
repeatedly depending on the intensity of the UV it senses. The more
flame (UV), the more pulses per second. I found a similar circuit using
a different product at the following link, if that helps
http://www.superdroidrobots.com/product_info/R2868.pdf
If anyone looks at that link and sees the circuit, can you tell me what
the two capacitors that parallel the input and output do? The bulb I
have doesn't seem to have a cathode/anode designation on it, or any
other markings either. It doesn't look polarized to me.
I can supply the the whole safety circuit with 120VAC at 9.5A. I want
to use it as a one safety to interupt 120VAC going to an emergency gas
shutoff valve that requires 120VAC at 0.12A to remain open. For my
application I just need to know if a flame is present or not. I would
like to be able to bypass this flame sensor, it's output or the
controlling device, during initial startup (the emergency gas shutoff
valve must be open, supplied with 120VAC, but no flame would be present
till I manually light it, after which I would manually switch the UV
scanner into the circuit so it acts as a safety.)
I would also like to put the UV scanner (flame on/off) safety in series
with an omni-directional tilt switch of some kind that would open the
120VAC going to the same gas shutoff valve. So, if the flame goes out
the gas shuts off, or if the unit tips the gas shuts off.
I got suggestions for a micro tilt switch on another forum. It only
works after a tilt of 45 or more degrees. I need something more
sensitive and without need for digital electronics. I want to keep this
as simple as possible, so I am looking for a normally closed
omni-directional mercury tilt switch that will handle the current
requirements of the emergency gas shut off valve.
So, in a nutshell if I got it right, it looks like I have to step up
120VAC to 1200VAC (can I use a 120V/12V transformer backwards? Can I
get enough current out of it?) rectify and filter to 600VDC, apply this
with proper current limiting to the bulb(I'm at a loss here), voltage
divide properly, then filter the scanners output pulses and somehow
control a devise (relay?) that would interupt 120VAC to the emergency
gas shutoff valve.
I don't have my electronic test/build stuff anymore, but I still got a
meter and soldering iron! I've been out of school a looong time (1982),
and haven't messed with electronic stuff in a long while either and I
have forgotten A LOT, but if you kind people could lead me I can most
certainly construct anything you might dream up. I DO need help here.
Remember, "Cheap fart" is my middle name! You can call me that, I don't
mind!
Oh! and I'm a new forum member so Hi everyone and thanks to all who
look and many thanks to any one who might help.
Rez(cheap fart)axis
of a UV sensor bulb with a 1K resistor (looks like 1/2 watt) on each
leg, and two 600V wires/leads. As far as I can determine, it takes a
minimum of 560VDC to make it conduct. I think it's rated at 600V, it's
suggested that 600V rated wire be used to connect it. But I don't know
the current ratings. UV Eye part number 4-314-1 for the bulb and UV1a
is the part number for the scanner assembly. I can't find any other
info.
As far as the bulbs operation: It has a rarified gas inside. If enough
voltage is applied the bulb "avalanches" (conducts then opens)
repeatedly depending on the intensity of the UV it senses. The more
flame (UV), the more pulses per second. I found a similar circuit using
a different product at the following link, if that helps
http://www.superdroidrobots.com/product_info/R2868.pdf
If anyone looks at that link and sees the circuit, can you tell me what
the two capacitors that parallel the input and output do? The bulb I
have doesn't seem to have a cathode/anode designation on it, or any
other markings either. It doesn't look polarized to me.
I can supply the the whole safety circuit with 120VAC at 9.5A. I want
to use it as a one safety to interupt 120VAC going to an emergency gas
shutoff valve that requires 120VAC at 0.12A to remain open. For my
application I just need to know if a flame is present or not. I would
like to be able to bypass this flame sensor, it's output or the
controlling device, during initial startup (the emergency gas shutoff
valve must be open, supplied with 120VAC, but no flame would be present
till I manually light it, after which I would manually switch the UV
scanner into the circuit so it acts as a safety.)
I would also like to put the UV scanner (flame on/off) safety in series
with an omni-directional tilt switch of some kind that would open the
120VAC going to the same gas shutoff valve. So, if the flame goes out
the gas shuts off, or if the unit tips the gas shuts off.
I got suggestions for a micro tilt switch on another forum. It only
works after a tilt of 45 or more degrees. I need something more
sensitive and without need for digital electronics. I want to keep this
as simple as possible, so I am looking for a normally closed
omni-directional mercury tilt switch that will handle the current
requirements of the emergency gas shut off valve.
So, in a nutshell if I got it right, it looks like I have to step up
120VAC to 1200VAC (can I use a 120V/12V transformer backwards? Can I
get enough current out of it?) rectify and filter to 600VDC, apply this
with proper current limiting to the bulb(I'm at a loss here), voltage
divide properly, then filter the scanners output pulses and somehow
control a devise (relay?) that would interupt 120VAC to the emergency
gas shutoff valve.
I don't have my electronic test/build stuff anymore, but I still got a
meter and soldering iron! I've been out of school a looong time (1982),
and haven't messed with electronic stuff in a long while either and I
have forgotten A LOT, but if you kind people could lead me I can most
certainly construct anything you might dream up. I DO need help here.
Remember, "Cheap fart" is my middle name! You can call me that, I don't
mind!
Oh! and I'm a new forum member so Hi everyone and thanks to all who
look and many thanks to any one who might help.
Rez(cheap fart)axis
