Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Tumble Dryer with No Heat Generation?

Hi, I'm a newbie at this, so I hope I have provided sufficient context to my question.

I have an Electrolux Condensor Dryer EDP2074PDW. All functions appear to work except for any heat generation & consequential drying. The original error message was E62, subsequently E63 & E70 thereafter.

My partner hadn't raised the lack of drying as an issue until recently. It must have been a month since drying performance dropped to a noticeable degree. I'm told this did not coincide with any other event. Although I have since cleaned & cleared build-up of compacted fluff in all areas of the dryer (Condensor, Ducts, vents ...etc).

I suspected the fault was related to the dryer component (at the rear). Although the electrical supply before the heater component has measured at only 10V AC. The thermocouple is attached to the same dryer component & energised from separate wires measured at 240V AC across the terminals.

Do you think the lack of heat is related to; the heater unit, the control board or something else?

Many thanks in advance.


Dryer2A.jpeg
 
Last edited:

bertus

Moderator
Hello,

You can attach pictures with a size upto 300 kB.
You could resize the pictures and upload them.

Bertus
 
It certainly sounds like a thermal fuse has triggered due to over heating.
You have probably cleared the venting by cleaning all the fluff out.
You will need to open the dryer to find the component. It should be close to the heater/element.

Martin
 
Thank you all for your prompt replies.

Martin, I assume your "thermal fuse" is the same as I incorrectly described as "thermocouple" & shown in the recently uploaded pic?

BTW, I have just tested & the result is no continuity across these terminals as per this video. So it all makes sense now. .. Many thanks again!

 
Also they are fairly common and should be available on whatever online place you have there such as Ebay.
Should be a temperature marking on the body of the device.
Part no.20226 in your photo.
 
IMO part 20226 is a thermal fuse/cutout. Some are resettable, others (including that one by the looks of it) are not.
 
Sir F Cee . . . . .

Your Model . . . . .Electrolux . . ..EDP2074PDW
On those models those 60 series of error codes tie into relating to a heating error.
With the ultimate worst possibilities being an EXPENSIVE no- no if it actually IS being compressor related !
upload_2021-5-26_14-49-28.png
Is the unit now in enough of a run state to tell if the compressor in and out tubings are getting cool and warm . . . . if it starts running a drying cycle ??

SINCE this design of unit is not being the old school design . . . . blower forced cool air over an upwards of a 2000 watt nichrome wire coil /bands for the heating to the rotating clothes drum.
Instead, it has a complete heat pump with compressor, cap tube refrigerant control and finned condenser assembly plus the same finned treatment of the evaporator asembly.
A double blower . . . one on each end of the inverter powered variable speed high tech magnetic field 3 phase motor . . . creates adjustable air flow over both the condenser (hot) finned coil assembly and the evaporator (cold) finned assembly.
The hot air is driven in to dry the clothes and the outputted humid air with its resultant heat latency passes over the evaporator assembly to be absorbed by the fins and cooled.
Condensed water vapor from the cooling fins yields water on them which run down to a water reservior via gravity to collect. A level actuated water pump will occassionaly kick on to fill up the top of the units larger reservoir. That larger water reservoir then receives / NEEDS a timely emptying.

You should also find these family / types of Clothes Dryer units priced upwards to just below $1,000 . . .or sometrimes less . . .if you have a Yiddish accent . . . . . . .Yo, such a deal already !

PAUSE. . . .
Now, think about it . . . free distilled water for you for (ITS) lifetime . . .babycakes !
Or do a taste test to see if being orally potable or if its also needing further micro porous 5u filtering + activated charcoal treatment .
Me . . . . I only use (my air conditioners condensant water) for my clothes steam iron, water boiling pot or lead cell battery water addage.
RESTART . . . .

Now, consider that . . . a refrigerated air conditioner / heat pump needs some run time to get chilled down for you . . . but here . . .we are interested in the HOT air emanating from the condenser fins.
So o o o o o this unit also incorporates a LESSER electrical heating assembly of only 600 watts.
That is what you are showing in the picture, with a parts house calling it a heater assembly BUT within the Electrolux parts referencing, it is only marked as being an item 14 "auxillary condenser" .
And I see no reference to its electrical connectivity within the Electrolux main wiring harness diagram, but on page 10/67 one can positively see its physical presence .

'ERE'S VAT I AM VANTINK TO THANKS . . . . .

In your searcing for cleanup within the hot air flow path . . .be sure that the heat thermal sensing probe . . . item 4 or 8 in accordance to your machine wiring . pages 15/67 or page 16/68 . . . does not now have an insulative cooling blanket of lint around and within its flow cavity that it is sampling.

Referring to the heater assembly that you are now showing a photo of . . . .
and by using this parts referencing of . . .

https://spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=64689_77656_94810&products_id=1934334

What I can see . . . are the multiple criss-cross nichrome strips . . .vice using coils . . .within a pressed micalex housing that is inserted within the heated air flow of the machine.
Their heating rating is only 600 watts so this unit is only for supplemental hot air heating being kicked in if needing or for the creation of minor dryer heat production prior to the heat pump getting up to heating specs.
Then it can be electrically cycled on or off . . . in accordance to detected heat requirements . . of the units thermister probe sensor..

On your heater assembly, I see the Klixxon family /design of thermostat that either electrically opens circuit or closes circuit at a specified air overflow temperature.

TESTING . . . ( You DO want to confirm something definitive . . . all for free . . . don't you ?

Now . . . you take Ohmmeter in hand and put it in its ohms function and lowest range . . . if not being auto ranging. Then look at the metering displayed . . . that is being an open circuit . . . short the test leads together . . .that, or CLOSE to it, (test lead lengths ohmmage) is a shorted circuit.
Pull one wires push on connector . . . . or even both from the thermostat and measure across the two thermo spade terminals.
That will give our initial expectation of its action . . . . it would be nice , if it's now reading as a closed / shorted circuit.

PHOTO . . . of the inside BUSINESS / temp sensing end of that unit
upload_2021-5-26_14-33-28.png


Now we just have to COMMANDEER Mamma Cass's or insignificant Others ? blow drier and use it to direct a high heat stream of air into the duct, as close as its physically possible to reach the thermo sensing disc end.
With ohmmeter monitoring across its terminals . . . .during a heating up . . . usually its noisy enought to be able to hear a bimetallic themal disc . . . CLICK . . . to its other mechanical condition and activate its alternate switch action. . . . to open circuit if you found it being initially closed while cold. ( Or vice versa.)
If generated heat was not great enough ? . . . a bit more heat can be cranked out by a partial /incremental finger covering of the blow dryers air intake ports.
Ask for a further more refined procedure, if a switchover state success testing is not met

Next feedback after thermo inspection, as is being confirmed by you, is to examine the plug at the end of the heater assembly.
I need full accountability of potentially, how the two ? three wires from the heater portion and two wires from the thermostat are being inter- wired together.
There is being a possible wire color transition inside of the unit witth the two thermostat wires.
Inter resistance readings between the Red-Blu-Wh wires are also needed.

Gleaned from your post #1 PHOTO . . .

I see two smaller black wires on the 5 pin connector which I would want to most likely expect as going to the thermostat . . . considering there being a RED wire color transition/changeover and the woven spaghetti insulation sleeve precludes my even seeing the other existant wires color..
So that leaves the HEAVY gauge RED-BLUE-WHITE wires being associated with the nichrome heating element AND thereby, havingan option of HIGH or LOW heat with 3 wires being involved.

Lacking that info . . . I can go no fudder . . .mudder. . . . . .

Here is being the DEFINITIVE referencing source for you . . . .

https://elektrotanya.com/electrolux_edp_2074_pdw_sm.pdf/download.html

Go to that links mid page and pass their captcha test of . . I am not a crook . . . .then hit the aside download and wait for enough time for the then ensuing PDF's download


73's de Edd . . . . .

People will accept your idea much more readily if you tell them Benjamin Franklin said it first.
(And I probably should know that, what with him being my 9th paternal generation back . . . cousin. )

.
 

Attachments

  • upload_2021-5-26_14-48-56.png
    upload_2021-5-26_14-48-56.png
    141 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:
I had a Samsung dryer that worked like normal but stopped heating. After checking heating element and every sensor/fuse and finding them good, I finally found the problem to be a bad contacts in the centrifugal switch attached to the motor. Was very simple fix, just needed a little solder.

Here is a random video I pulled up about it. I only skimmed it so forgive me if its not a good video.
 
Thank you all for your further suggestions & information. I'm now more confident in trying to tackle these issues in the future.
I connected the new heater element. Worked well on a few separate tests. Reconnected everything back & spent extra time cleaning any remaining dust/lint. Retested once all reassembled, all good. The next day I'm told it's no longer heating. :-( Back to square one.
Unfortunately, colder, wetter weather & a further frustrated better half had got the better of me. The new heat-pump unit working well.
 
Top