Trying to reconfigure this jump start/peripheral connector cable thing

[juntjoo]

Hey so I gather at least this whole arrangement is "in series" right? Tell me if you don't know what you're looking at but I'm assuming you guys understand this stuff way more than me.

So I wanna remove the jump starter part to this thing, and keep the SAE connector part. And I'm thinking I just route the hot wire to the correct wire of the SAE then take the negative cable from the positive lug and splice it to negative lug.

Will that successfully remove the jump starter and keep the fuse connected how it should be for this ultimately single circuit I'm trying to accomplish here?

Jump starter https://imgur.com/a/TEkAzUU





Moderators note : resized image and posted inline

 

[Bluejets]

No reason why the image could not be reduces to less than 100kb and still be readable if not unable to work out what you want to do.
No idea what you refer to as "in series ,right?".
What is an SAE connector..??

 

[juntjoo]

No reason why the image could not be reduces to less than 100kb and still be readable if not unable to work out what you want to do.
No idea what you refer to as "in series ,right?".
What is an SAE connector..??

Series vs "parallel". Electronics basics. If you don't know that much I can't help you cuz I'm a new. Are you saying my picture is too big at 1.5mb?

 

[Bluejets]

Been in and around electrical and electronics for over 55 years so, no not a beginner .
Your answer is zero help towards your request. (CUZ)
Detail on posting photos already answered.

 

[Kiwi]

Automotive electrician, but confused about what this lead is and what you want to do with it.

Is the "SAE connector" the 2-pin connector at top left, and "jump starter" a remote starter button at bottom left?

 

[juntjoo]

Automotive electrician, but confused about what this lead is and what you want to do with it.

Is the "SAE connector" the 2-pin connector at top left, and "jump starter" a remote starter button at bottom left?

No, it's not a remote switch. It's a socket for this proprietary plug/connector that then alligator clips to another vehicle's battery. I want to take that out of the whole equation.

 

[Kiwi]

Really confused now.
Can you draw a wiring diagram of the circuit?
What is the lead used for?

 

[Martaine2005]

To avoid confusion, can you supply another photo with the wires seperated?.
Overlapping black wires are not easy to define. Especially when one is connected to the positive lead.
Also, which connector has what?
Put paper underneath and make a note for us.

Clearly you have positive and negative crimped ring terminals that are connected to two different types of connectors. And an in-line fuse.

Martin

 

[Harald Kapp]

The wires in your picture look way too thin for jump starting another car. It seems nobody here has a clear idea what you're trying to do, including me (may not mean much though ).
Let's restart:

• Where does that contraption come from? Can you supply a brand and part number?
• How would this part originally be wired? A diagram , please. Worth more than a thousand words.
• What do you want to do with it? How do you want to wire it? Which parts do you want to keep, which parts do you want to get rid of? Again, a diagram will be helpful. Also a picture with the parts marked (e.g. red and green for dispose and keep) would be nice. Easily to be created with any paint program, doesn't have to be perfect.

Put yourself in our position: We don't know any of the above unless you provide details. No details, no useful answers.

 

[juntjoo]

Okay, so that was like 700kb. Is that the max?

I'll draw another. That's the first I've ever drawn. Does it make sense? I want to remove the jump stsrter(to another vehicle) socket on this thing.

Or...

Maybe not. This is my stand alone jumper battery pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YNBB6QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_HCSKQH09MMBEBB40JAAA

Awesome little product. But it is a pain to use directly connected to the battery and I'm thinking about connecting it through this SAE connector. I realize the current needed to jump start a bike even should be a bit hot the smaller the wires you use are but I don't know exactly how all this works and the wires for this thing made for jump starting at the socket I'm about to take apart uses the same gauge wires as the SAE cables. 16 gauge I believe.

I just wanted to modify to remove the extra jump starter socket I won't need.

 

[juntjoo]

Ohx, one important question: this"battery tender" battery pack I have advertises 1000amps, but on the back of the unit it says output : 3.4amp. It's also for charging other USB powered devices, phones and such, so is that the max amps for that? And is the "1000 amps" advertised a max depending on the Amp draw of the vehicle you're jumping? Any idea what kind of amps I'd be drawing from a 650cc motorcycle?

 

[juntjoo]

Here it is!

http://www.walmart.com/ip/EKLIPES-B...ike-2-Bike-EZ-Plug-In-Jump-Start-Kit/35510605

 

[Bluejets]

Your link throws up an error.
1000 amp is quite a bundle of current flow, not the kind of thing that piece of spaghetti you have show could be associated with.

 

[juntjoo]

Your link throws up an error.
1000 amp is quite a bundle of current flow, not the kind of thing that piece of spaghetti you have show could be associated with.

You're right. It's a link specifically for the Walmart app. This will work

https://www.eklipes.com/EK1-115

So how do you suppose a gadget like this works for jump starting with such skinny wires?

 

[Bluejets]

So how do you suppose a gadget like this works for jump starting with such skinny wires?

Quite simply, it won't.

 

[juntjoo]

Quite simply, it won't.[/QUOTE ]

Well that makes so much sense. Thanks for your keen insight

 

[Harald Kapp]

I just wanted to modify to remove the extra jump starter socket I won't need.

From the pictures in the link you posted in #14 it looks like this kit is intended to be mounted to the battery of one bike (the "donor") as a fixed installation using the cable lugs. This part then presents a socket (looks like a cigarette lighter) where you can plug in the long cable if need be. On the receiving end there are 2 clamps to connect to the "receiver's" battery. Of course, you could connect the cable directly to the battery instead of using the socket. I just can't see why you would want to have the cable dangling all the time even when not needed. But that is up to you, of course.
The SAE connector is obviously not required for jump starting, only for maintenance charging when the bike is not in use. You can therefore remove it if you feel so inclined.

Personally I think this kit may be worth the price when you need the SAE port. If not, a classic jump start cable can be had at much lower cost.

 

[dave9]

You're right. It's a link specifically for the Walmart app. This will work

https://www.eklipes.com/EK1-115

So how do you suppose a gadget like this works for jump starting with such skinny wires?

Could be two factors, maybe three.

1) Jump starter packs marketed in recent years are often notoriously overrated, sometimes by a factor of 10X or more.

2) A 650cc motorcycle probably only needs 40CA or so, depending on temperature and a few other variables. 40A for a few seconds is no problem from wire at a gauge similar to pictured, especially if silicone insulated copper instead of vinyl insulated, copper plated aluminum.

3) If a vehicle just has a drained, not totally dead battery, you hook up your jump pack with questionable wire gauge, and let it sit a few minutes to put some charge back into the primary vehicle battery, so it is providing current in parallel during starting.

Some jump packs also have a temperature sensor and shut off output after (depending on load) a single-digit # of seconds which not only protects the pack from overheating but also the wire and when so equipped, mosfets in series in a pack on the wire or in the casing right before the wire. This design is far more common on the little Li-Ion based jump packs than the more robust SLA battery type.