Source of replacement for Relay for NAD C 326BEE

[Nickelmore]

Hello everyone,

I'm looking for a relay for my NAD C 326Bee amp, because the left speaker 'clicks' sometimes and the right speaker fails to run until a certain (louder) threshold of volume is reached

I would like to try to replace the relay and hope that it helps here.

I've found the relay in the service documentation:
RELAY POWER DC12V 8A/250V 2P1T
PCB MOUNT ME-11-012-2H4 (RoHS)
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1441478/Nad-C-326bee.html

I couldn't find the same relay, but a documentation:
http://www.massuse-relay.com/details/ME-11.pdf

I also found that for example that the MASSUSE ME-11-012-2Z4 could be replaced with RELPOL RM84-2012-35-1012
(see: http://audiopurist.pl/en/articles-en/audio-relay-the-hidden-truth/)

But the contact form seem to differ: H vs Z. I couldn't find the difference here.

Which relay could I use as an alternative for the ME-11-012-2H4?

Thank you very much in advance!

Best regards
Dennis

 

[Harald Kapp]

Why do you think the relay is the culprit? Unless you hear the relay clicking on and off in synchrony with the speaker(s), the relay is very likely totally o.k.

I couldn't find the difference here.

According to the ordering information you linked:
2H4 = contact form 2A
2Z4 = contact form 2C

According to this info site the 2A is also known as n.o. (normally open) and the 2C is known as c.o. (change over). You should be able to use the 2C contacts if you cut the unused pins (green) as long as the remaining pins fit the hole pattern in the PCB.

 

[Nickelmore]

Why do you think the relay is the culprit? Unless you hear the relay clicking on and off in synchrony with the speaker(s), the relay is very likely totally o.k.

According to the ordering information you linked:
2H4 = contact form 2A
2Z4 = contact form 2C
View attachment 50505
According to this info site the 2A is also known as n.o. (normally open) and the 2C is known as c.o. (change over). You should be able to use the 2C contacts if you cut the unused pins (green) as long as the remaining pins fit the hole pattern in the PCB.

Hi Harald,
that's a good suggestion, thank you very much! I will check this one out!

Well actually the relay is a blind spot but my best guess so far, because it's one of the components which is faulty often.

First I've had problems with the balance potentiometer - I've bypassed it and it's much better now. But I've got still problems and I was able to narrow it down to the output amplifier of the amp (by testing another preamp and plugging in directly to the main in input and I've tested all other constellations with cables and speakers)

I know it's not much but I couldn't see any cold solder joints or capacitors on the board. The Relay is the blackbox for me right now. Maybe I will try to hear the clicking first - is this clicking 'loud' by any means?

Do you have any other components I might check too?

 

[Harald Kapp]

Before you buy a new relay, you can short-circuit the contacts of the existing relay with a piece of wire to verify that the relay really is to blame.

 

[Grumi63]

Hello, I have exactly the same issue.
Did the shortcut or the relay replacement solved your problem?

Thank you.

 

[Nickelmore]

Hello, I have exactly the same issue.
Did the shortcut or the relay replacement solved your problem?

Thank you.

Hello Grumi63,

I had 2 problems which I could solve differently:

1) the clicking on the left side. It was caused by the TV, via Aux and optical out. Another TV fixed that for me.

2) the dropping out of a speaker, until a certain threshold was reached: yes the new Relais helped!
I've implemented the following relais: (see picture). Works like a charm.

 

[Grumi63]

Hello,
Great, my 'only' issue is the dropping out of a speaker, until a certain threshold.
I've just ordered the relay.

Thank you!