Sony CDP 671 CD, working now, but?

[n cook]

No troubles for owner then totally stopped on next disc or any others.
Laser alight , cleaned lens, mechanics seemed ok,
continued to not spin, but servos working.
Removed the top housing over the platter,
weighted with the removed magnetic top-knot over the CD and now
seems to work every time - any ideas?

 

[Arfa Daily]

No troubles for owner then totally stopped on next disc or any others.
Laser alight , cleaned lens, mechanics seemed ok,
continued to not spin, but servos working.
Removed the top housing over the platter,
weighted with the removed magnetic top-knot over the CD and now
seems to work every time - any ideas?

So does it still work when the disc clamp is put back together ' normally '
?

Arfa

 

[n cook]

So does it still work when the disc clamp is put back together ' normally '
?

Arfa

After an hour of working fine without prob it is now solidly stuck in
non-work mode so I'll try finding a loose comp/con on the first board.
Sledge servo always brings the laser to read the data track in exactly the
right place, focus servo functiond but "No Disc" displayed.

 

[Arfa Daily]

After an hour of working fine without prob it is now solidly stuck in
non-work mode so I'll try finding a loose comp/con on the first board.
Sledge servo always brings the laser to read the data track in exactly the
right place, focus servo functiond but "No Disc" displayed.

Many Sony models in recent years, have suffered in this way, as a result of
the flexiprint to the laser, going intermittent where it bends its sharpest,
just behind the blue plastic reinforcing strip for connector insertion.

Usually, when it's bad, you can gently poke it with a long thin screwdriver,
and it will start working again. I used to keep a slightly longer, slightly
thinner one in stock, which used to bend more gently, and more easily. Not
saying that it is this, but worth a try ...

Arfa

 

[n cook]

Many Sony models in recent years, have suffered in this way, as a result of
the flexiprint to the laser, going intermittent where it bends its sharpest,
just behind the blue plastic reinforcing strip for connector insertion.

Usually, when it's bad, you can gently poke it with a long thin screwdriver,
and it will start working again. I used to keep a slightly longer, slightly
thinner one in stock, which used to bend more gently, and more easily. Not
saying that it is this, but worth a try ...

Arfa

Seems plausible, I will return to it next week, doing a repairable 35
yearold Beomaster at the moment.

 

[n cook]

Many Sony models in recent years, have suffered in this way, as a result of
the flexiprint to the laser, going intermittent where it bends its sharpest,
just behind the blue plastic reinforcing strip for connector insertion.

Usually, when it's bad, you can gently poke it with a long thin screwdriver,
and it will start working again. I used to keep a slightly longer, slightly
thinner one in stock, which used to bend more gently, and more easily. Not
saying that it is this, but worth a try ...

Arfa

I did a check of that flexistrip and one conductor is o/c.
I see a magnet wire bridge going in, soldered to the pcb at either end.
For the archives the laser unit is KSS 213B, December 1995

 

[Arfa Daily]

I did a check of that flexistrip and one conductor is o/c.
I see a magnet wire bridge going in, soldered to the pcb at either end.
For the archives the laser unit is KSS 213B, December 1995

Ah-Ha. There's a result then ! I have tried repairing by ' bridge-around '
with wire in the past, but it doesn't seem to last long. Don't know if you
have access to Sony spares ( Chas Hyde could supply them to you ). The
slightly longer and thinner flexiprint that I mentioned that I used to use,
is Sony Pt # 1-757-055-11 " Wire ( Flat Type ) 16-Core "

Arfa

 

[n cook]

Ah-Ha. There's a result then ! I have tried repairing by ' bridge-around '
with wire in the past, but it doesn't seem to last long. Don't know if you
have access to Sony spares ( Chas Hyde could supply them to you ). The
slightly longer and thinner flexiprint that I mentioned that I used to use,
is Sony Pt # 1-757-055-11 " Wire ( Flat Type ) 16-Core "

Arfa

I usually twist 3 strands together of the finest enamelled wire 45 swg or so
for each connection, soldering the 3 ends together at each end.
Repeated either side of the actual broken track as these are likely to fail
next
I agree using anything more than 40swg or so is likely to work harden and
break, or whatever happens to copper.

 

[n cook]

Ah-Ha. There's a result then ! I have tried repairing by ' bridge-around '
with wire in the past, but it doesn't seem to last long. Don't know if you
have access to Sony spares ( Chas Hyde could supply them to you ). The
slightly longer and thinner flexiprint that I mentioned that I used to use,
is Sony Pt # 1-757-055-11 " Wire ( Flat Type ) 16-Core "

Arfa

used 6 twisted 46 SWG strands for each of the bridging conductors and player
is back working, I wonder for how long before another foil track goes or my
copper wiring fails.
Written up and already ftp'd to
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repair2.htm