Solar lights charging board component

[kwicher]

Hello

It is a noob question. I am trying to repair my garden solar lights and they have a small very simple circuit with something that most likely is a voltage booster.

I tested the output produced from the system and it is only 0.5V or so which is obviously too little to power the LEDs. Solar panel output is 5-6V and the battery is LiMH 1.2V.
So for me, it looks like the booster is broken. I thought of replacing it or building from scratch but there is not a number on the part. Would you have an idea of what it could be? Pictures attached.

Thank you

 

[Martaine2005]

Hi kwicher,
Somebody will be able to decipher the 8 pin dip fairly easily.
But in the mean time, have you checked the switch? it certainly looks corroded and rust evident on the inside.
Try bypassing the switch and then check the output.

Martin

 

[kwicher]

Hi kwicher,
Somebody will be able to decipher the 8 pin dip fairly easily.
But in the mean time, have you checked the switch? it certainly looks corroded and rust evident on the inside.
Try bypassing the switch and then check the output.

Martin

Hi
I checked the switch it is not a problem. Broken chip?
Best
K

 

[davenn]

. Broken chip?

possibly a dead IC, but since it has no markings on it, who knows what it could be ??

 

[kwicher]

possibly a dead IC, but since it has no markings on it, who knows what it could be ??

OK. In that situation, any idea of how to recreate a similar circuit?

 

[73's de Edd]

SIr kwicher . . . . . .

[ [ [ [ [ the battery is LiMH 1.2V ] ] ] ] ]. . . . . . . .e r r r r r r r . . . . NOPE !

One would initially think that your units 8 pin dip packaged switch mode Eye See, MIGHT ? possibly be a Tejas Instrumentations type SN6501, using its internal oscillator and internal FET driver to drive / ring that external inductor (120 uh) and rectify its ringing amplitudes with a schottky diode to acquire a boosted output voltage for the LED lite..
RE . . . . http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn6501.pdf?&ts=1589252334576
HOWEVER . . . . that device is only being offered in a 5 pin backaging . . . no 8 pin dips, so that would not be the mystery deee-vice.

And then there is being the LSP6501, but it requires far more support components than are shown being used here.
Re . . . . https://www.datasheet.live/index.php?title=SpecialdfViewer&url=https%3A%2F%2Fpdf.datasheet.live%2Fdatasheets-1%2Flite-on_semiconductor%2FLSP6501MSAC.pdf

Then, as per your comment on the IC being bad . . . . .BUT . . . . as conservatively as it is being used here, I can't see that, unless that is being with a dee-veloped internal manufacturing / quality defect.

NOW . . . .what I really-really-really-really-REALLY think as being the root problem, is the quality factor of the units supplied rechargeble cell.
Why not pull it and put in an alkaline 1.5 cell, and then PROBABLY see the unit putting out light again.
While you are at it, and if you happen to have a well developed "Junque electronics equipment pile for scavenging", why not see if some piece of equipmemt will provide a 33 or 47 uh choke coil . . . .which you replace that 150 uh unit with and then experience and increased light output .
If the stock supplied rechargeable cell is deficient . . . . . lets talk about that later.

Needless to say, these units work best if sited to receive FULL sun thru the day . Partial tree shade time REALLY fouls up their performance.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaassit . . . . .


73's de Edd . . . . .



If 4 out of 5 people SUFFER from diarrhea . . . now, does that mean that ONE of them actually enjoys it ?


.

 

[kwicher]

[ [ [ [ [ the battery is LiMH 1.2V ] ] ] ] ]. . . . . . . .e r r r r r r r . . . . NOPE !.

Ni , Li - who cares

One would initially think that your units 8 pin dip packaged switch mode Eye See, MIGHT ? possibly be a Tejas Instrumentations type SN6501, using its internal oscillator and internal FET driver to drive / ring that external inductor (120 uh) and rectify its ringing amplitudes with a schottky diode to acquire a boosted output voltage for the LED lite..
RE . . . . http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn6501.pdf?&ts=1589252334576
HOWEVER . . . . that device is only being offered in a 5 pin backaging . . . no 8 pin dips, so that would not be the mystery deee-vice.

And then there is being the LSP6501, but it requires far more support components than are shown being used here.
Re . . . . https://www.datasheet.live/index.php?title=SpecialdfViewer&url=https%3A%2F%2Fpdf.datasheet.live%2Fdatasheets-1%2Flite-on_semiconductor%2FLSP6501MSAC.pdf

I went through the same thought ... Google ... process.

Then, as per your comment on the IC being bad . . . . .BUT . . . . as conservatively as it is being used here, I can't see that, unless that is being with a dee-veloped internal manufacturing / quality defect.

THe whole solar/battery unit is of poor quality though it worked for a year or so but second English winter killed it and you saw the rust.

NOW . . . .what I really-really-really-really-REALLY think as being the root problem, is the quality factor of the units supplied rechargeble cell.
Why not pull it and put in an alkaline 1.5 cell, and then PROBABLY see the unit putting out light again.

I might be a noob but I tried that to no success - the unit still has only the same voltage at the output as the battery.

While you are at it, and if you happen to have a well developed "Junque electronics equipment pile for scavenging", why not see if some piece of equipmemt will provide a 33 or 47 uh choke coil . . . .which you replace that 150 uh unit with and then experience and increased light output .
If the stock supplied rechargeable cell is deficient . . . . . lets talk about that later.

Not yet, building up ..

Needless to say, these units work best if sited to receive FULL sun thru the day . Partial tree shade time REALLY fouls up their performance.

Cambridge is quite sunny so that is not a problem.

Thanks for all the comments

krzys

 

[Martaine2005]

I tested the output produced from the system and it is only 0.5V or so which is obviously too little to power the LEDs.

and the battery is LiMH 1.2V.

I might be a noob but I tried that to no success - the unit still has only the same voltage at the output as the battery.

So, which is it. 0.5v or 1.2v?

Martin

 

[kwicher]

So, which is it. 0.5v or 1.2v?

Martin

So the original battery was off and it only produced 0.5V, so I have changed it to a new rechargable 1.5V and the output is 1.5V

 

[Martaine2005]

Maybe something like this?

Martin

 

[kwicher]

Maybe something like this?

Martin

It could ... but from the designs used it would still require a capacitor to work and in my circuit, there are only two resistors.

 

[Martaine2005]

Your circuit has 1 resistor and 1 inductor.

Martin

 

[kwicher]

True. My bad.