ryobi cordless tool battery replacement

[rtrg]

This is for those in this forum who made a battery replacement "BOX" for their 18 volt tools. I looked into this and decided that my ability and electronics understanding is so limited I abandoned it. Instead I bought TWO MEAN WELL brand PSU's at a rating of 15 to 18 volt dc, (3 volt variable) at 23 AMP, and a 18 to 24 volt dc at 15 AMP. Both standard 120 AC input.

To use it I sacrificed two bad nicad battery packs. Emptied the cells, drilled a small hole in the rear, ran a ZIP cord from the "PACK" to the dc side of the PSU. Both are set to 18 volt. Tools run like a charm. The cord is permanently attached. You might want to use matching connectors so you can make extension cords. I use mine at a work bench. $50 each on EBAY. The size is about the same as a cigar box. Works for me. I give kudos to those who built there own. Some builder made one that fits into a 16" tool box! Too big for me. I also bought two LION battery packs at 4ah per cell at 73 WH, smaller packs at 43 WH. Also from EBAY at $30 each.

 

[Martaine2005]

Hi rtrg,
I don't know how to do that. Can you provide a wiring diagram?
I know you meanwell but?

Martin

 

[rtrg]

Hi rtrg,
I don't know how to do that. Can you provide a wiring diagram?
I know you meanwell but?

Martin

MARTIN--- MEANWELL is a brand of PSU. Cigar box sized power supply at 15 volt or 24 volt at 23 amp and 15 amp respectively. Part numbers NES-350-15 and NES-350-24. I got mine from EBAY. Simply search for the name or part number. Pick one based on the $s you want to spend. I will try to up load a schematic that another member made. It may or may not work.Apparently the upload worked. It is fairly easy to follow. You need either one transformer with two 15 volt secondaries or two with a single 15 volt secondary. The builder used a TOROIDIAL (round) transformer. Two full wave rectifiers rated at 50 volt each. Polorized capacitor rated at 50 volt, 10,000 MICO FARADS. NOT FARADS. You could also use multiple caps at 500 mf in PARALELL instead. The whole thing can be made on a large perf board. The builder used barrier strips and AC connectors for the 2 extra 120 volt AC lines he added and a computer connector for the 20 volt DC output to which your tool is connected. On/off switches are a neat addition. You are going to have to sacrifice a battery pack for your tool. Empty the cells and add a zip cord to the wires that come from the battery connector to the now removed batteries. You will only need to use the PLUS and MINUS wires, usually RED/BLACK. Ignore a TEMP sensor or diode. Does not matter what design the pack is. Once the pack has been opened it is easy to identify the connector and wires attached.If you choose to add connectors at the DC side that will allow you to remove pack, now a connector, from the psu at that point. The extra 120 volt AC lines come in handy to add a desk lamp or even an electric drill. Optional. Feel free to ask questions of me.

 

[Minder]

If I were to go that route personally I would go with the toroidal transformers and the bridge, rather than Chinese SMPS supplies, also you do not necessarily need the caps for DC motor use, just obtain the secondary for your particular tool rated voltage, A 20v secondary will be good for the 18v drill etc.
M.

 

[rtrg]

If I were to go that route personally I would go with the toroidal transformers and the bridge, rather than Chinese SMPS supplies, also you do not necessarily need the caps for DC motor use, just obtain the secondary for your particular tool rated voltage, A 20v secondary will be good for the 18v drill etc.
M.

This was not my project.It was posted by another member. For myself I went with a switched PSU, 18 - 24 volt adjustable at 400 watts and 20 amps. Set to 18. Drill runs fine. Used a dead battery as a "connector", ran a cord from pack to PSU, removable with banana plugs and jacks.

 

[(*steve*)]

Hi rtrg. You sent me a message, but I'm not sure which the original thread was. If you can post a link to it I will be able to answer your questions.