restoring old garage door opener-receiver/transmitter

[noquacks]

People,

Have an old (ancient) heathkit garage door opener, from the 1970's. remote quit years ago, and none available. Heathkit told me fortunately I can install a "momentary contact" type receiver/transmitter, and use the matching remote to work the door again. They said many are available on Amazon, for very cheap. but would not point me to a particular one. I have found a few, but niot 100% sure they are compatable as few actually say "momentary contact", or if they do, they are for light bulbs, not garage door opener (unless both are interchangeable).

Will this one do, for example:?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6VPCYG/ref=psdc_573765011_t2_B01A6VPB6A

Or perhaps this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GYDSY9...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Lastly, this one??:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-G...385902?hash=item286d4bf36e:g:yjoAAOSwAwJdTTrb

Any other help in finding one is greatly appreciated, as this language is new to me.

Thanks, People.

 

[Bluejets]

One can usually program many of the available units for whatever switching action one requires.

As an example push on, push off or......... push on , release off

Some Ebay have the example programming below in datail, others have it included all-be-it in Chinglish....others have details on youtube.

The first you link to says momentry switch.
Second is 4 channel, I doubt you need that many, one will do.
The last is single channel BUT requires the button to push on, push off.
I would imagine most are momentry requirement i.e. push on, release off. One would naturally need to wire across the common and normally open i.e. ......C and N/O to your existing button.

This one as an example (many others) in link below is 12v , programmable for whatever mode and instructions are below in the listing so one can see the details before one buys the unit.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-...861799?hash=item1a848b2767:g:vscAAOSwfhtdNnAy

 

[noquacks]

Thanks, Blue! I didnt know that my 3rd link does not include a push button. Since it shows the 2 remote control "buttons", I figured thats all one needed. One needs other "push buttons"? Where would these push buttons be installed?

I have sent a message to the supplier in the ebay link you provided, asking if he can supply TWP remote transmitters , as I need 2.

Comments appreciated!

 

[Bluejets]

Thanks, Blue! I didnt know that my 3rd link does not include a push button. Since it shows the 2 remote control "buttons", I figured thats all one needed. One needs other "push buttons"? Where would these push buttons be installed?

I have sent a message to the supplier in the ebay link you provided, asking if he can supply TWP remote transmitters , as I need 2.

Comments appreciated!

Your 3rd link is a latch type which would, I imagine, be unsuitable.
Garage openers are usually momentary contact which means one pushes a button to get a relay to change state, then on release, the relay returns to original state.
This is why I went to the trouble of looking up what I imagined would be a suitable unit, hoping it would put you on the right track.

I doubt very much that any online store such as Amazon or Ebay would have any idea what-so-ever of what a TWP remote refers to, I certainly don't.

 

[Minder]

I picked up one of the 433mhz keyfob transmitters and receivers for about $8.00 on ebay, they can be set for momentary or maintained (push-on/push-off)
The one you have is probably in the 72Mhz range.
If you just need to duplicate a momentary relay contact, then they should work.
M.,

 

[noquacks]

I picked up one of the 433mhz keyfob transmitters and receivers for about $8.00 on ebay, they can be set for momentary or maintained (push-on/push-off)
The one you have is probably in the 72Mhz range.
If you just need to duplicate a momentary relay contact, then they should work.
M.,

Thanks, Minder. Mine says 60 Hz on side of box. Also, any way you can put a link on the one you bought? I am posting a picture if that will help, for you and Bluejets, so yous know exactly what I have.

 

[noquacks]

Your 3rd link is a latch type which would, I imagine, be unsuitable.
Garage openers are usually momentary contact which means one pushes a button to get a relay to change state, then on release, the relay returns to original state.
This is why I went to the trouble of looking up what I imagined would be a suitable unit, hoping it would put you on the right track.

I doubt very much that any online store such as Amazon or Ebay would have any idea what-so-ever of what a TWP remote refers to, I certainly don't.

Blue- I noticed that your find does not ship to the US. It says "does not post to US". Also, only has one remote- I need 2. He has not replied to my questions (probably cuz the weekend). If my 2nd link will work, even though it has 4 channels, I may buy it. Can I use just one channel? The thing is not expensive, so I dont care if I dont use the other 3 channels.

 

[Minder]

60hz is the supply, the TX/RX frequency would most likely be 72Mhz at that time.
ebay 263069373827 this is a 4 ch, but there are 1channel as well.
M.

 

[noquacks]

Picture below: had trouble posting picture, finally got it up. This is the old receiver. Has 2 wires going into it.

 

[Bluejets]

Blue- I noticed that your find does not ship to the US. It says "does not post to US". Also, only has one remote- I need 2. He has not replied to my questions (probably cuz the weekend). If my 2nd link will work, even though it has 4 channels, I may buy it. Can I use just one channel? The thing is not expensive, so I dont care if I dont use the other 3 channels.

It was an EXAMPLE of what is available to suit your application.

I'm not going to do all your running around for you, all you have to do is LOOK for yourself.

Plenty of places LIKE Ebay and Amazon who have exactly the same units.

Some will have just the remote but it will be of little use to you as it will not match your old unit.

 

[noquacks]

OK, thanks, Blue. I will keep searching.

 

[Minder]

Can you see a relay that operates when the remote is pressed. if so you can just use one of the key fob remotes off ebay even if 4 channel, just use the one.
You would need a 12vdc supply also.
They are down to around $5.00 now.
M.

 

[noquacks]

Can you see a relay that operates when the remote is pressed. if so you can just use one of the key fob remotes off ebay even if 4 channel, just use the one.
You would need a 12vdc supply also.
They are down to around $5.00 now.
M.

The original remote does not work, has not for years, so I cant see how observing the relay will help as it wont be activated. . I dont know if its the recevier at the box or the remote, thats why Im looking for a totally new receiver/remote. I called heathkit myself and thats what they recomended, but they could not endorse any system on amazon/ebay. They did though say that it should be "easy" to find a system, since my opener is the momentary type. But I dont know what to look for. In think I am stuck. All I know is I need 2 transmitters, and a receiver that is compatable with momentary switch.

Did my photo help at all in determining what I may need?

 

[Bluejets]

If you are using a manual push button to operate the door at present, no need to go any further.

Simply wire the two cables from there to the common and normally open contacts on a wireless relay with a momentary contact mode programmed as I showed you in post link # 2.

 

[Minder]

Do you have, or can you obtain the system schematic?
Heathkit used to be good at providing info.
M.

 

[noquacks]

I could try again to call them to see if they have one. Thanks.

 

[hevans1944]

Your answer to @Bluejets question in post #14 is important! How do you operate your garage door now? Or has the door been mechanically disconnected from the door-lifting mechanism, so you open and close it manually?

 

[noquacks]

Your answer to @Bluejets question in post #14 is important! How do you operate your garage door now? Or has the door been mechanically disconnected from the door-lifting mechanism, so you open and close it manually?

Thanks, heavens. Currently I just push the button on the wall to activate the low V wires, and door opens/closes. Remote quit years ago. Does that help?

 

[Minder]

Then the 433Mhz ebay version could be used to close the contact that is apparently done by the P.B.!
M.

 

[hevans1944]

Thanks, heavens. Currently I just push the button on the wall to activate the low V wires, and door opens/closes. Remote quit years ago. Does that help?

Yes it does. It means the low-voltage circuit that controls the door lifting/lowering motorized mechanism is completely independent of the ancient Heathkit receiver. You can ignore the antique receiver and add your own transmitter/receiver pair to perform the function of pressing the button on the wall.

These are incredibly inexpensive to purchase today. Make sure you get one that closes a contact when the key-fob button is pressed and opens that contact when the key-fob button is released. You simply wire the contacts of the receiver in parallel with the existing wall button.

Make sure both receiver and key-fob are powered up before concluding anything is wrong. You can use a cheap digital multimeter on its continuity or resistance function range to check the receiver/transmitter function before connecting the receiver contacts in parallel with your existing push-button switch contacts. Place the meter probes across the receiver contact terminals with nothing else connected. Low resistance means the contacts are closed. High resistance or an "OL" display means the contacts are open. Some meters also offer an audible beep when low resistance between the probes exists. Polarity doesn't matter for this test.

It is possible your receiver has single-pole double-throw (SPDT) contacts that allow one set of contacts to be closed when the key-fob is not activated, and those contacts to be opened when the key-fob is activated. If so, this pair of contacts is shared with another set of contacts that behaves in the opposite fashion, which is what you want, the opposite contacts being closed when the key-fob is activated and opened with the key-fob is not activated.

There is a common wire that is used for sharing both types of SPDT connections. You will be connecting this common wire and just one of the the other two contact connections in parallel with your existing push-button switch. Again, polarity is not important. Of course, if your receiver only has SPST contacts, you only have two wires to connect and no possibility of confusion... right?

Please let us know how this worked out for you.