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Repairing my old Wega V-3840-2 amplifier

Hi everyone,

I got an old Wega V-3840-2 audio amplifier from my dad a few years ago. Worked like a charm, up until a few weeks ago. I noticed that it got quite warm, but suspecting it was the sun, I just shut it off for a while and it resumed working. Then, suddenly, the right audio channel developed a nasty hum (I think about 100 Hz, which corresponds to twice the mains frequency here). I immediately shut it off, and only after a while turned it on, and it worked again. However, the very next week it started to hum again, and this humming would suddenly end with a 'pop', before starting again. The input audio completely cuts out while the hum is there.

After opening it up, I noticed the rightmost main amp transistor (an A671 PNP) heated up significantly. So, I checked around there for possible dry solder joints, re-soldered some just to be sure, but to no avail. I replaced the A671 and it's NPN complement (the C1061) with modern equivalents (according to the local hardware store), the BD243 and BD244. However, before doing that, I checked which side I should replace just to be sure, but I already disconnected the load (the speaker). This, I think, blew a small diode (with a nice puff of magic smoke) that was stuck against the C1061 transistor (perhaps a thermal protection diode?). The result is that it's still humming, but now it will do so continuously (no ending with a 'pop').

What would be a good next step for troubleshooting? Could I try temporarily remove or rather short the diode? Since it's embedded in epoxy, I can't really see what kind of diode should be used as a replacement. Additional info: the main amp board is made by Sony, and seems to have the type number S 47, or something starting with 1 584.
 
I would vote for a faulty power supply electrolytic capacitor, These will allow AC to get at the amplifier and will arc over inside with a pop, then recharging again and maybe working for a while.
If the diode is to set a temperature compensated static current, then it can be shorted until the rest of the circuit is sorted, you will get horrible cross over distortion but should be able to get rid of the hum.
DC voltage comparisons with the good channel will guide you.
 
1.The diode D201 is SV04F.
2.The Trs you are talking about are probably not the originals.
3.If what you say is correct and the noise is only related to the R-ch ,
than I would check C314,C270,C272 for the possible cause.
4.What test equipment if any do you have?


r-ch.jpg parts.jpg
 
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