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Repairing LCD TV - Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:

electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?

I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?

Thanks,

Zalek
 
M

Mark A

I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:

electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?

I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?

Thanks,

Zalek

You can purchase a 120V AC fan at an electrical store, but make sure it not
too fast or you will hear it. Most computer fans are 12V and will work with
just about any 12V converter that you laying around, or you can get one at
an electronics stores.
 
S

SoCalCommie

I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:

electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?

I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?

Thanks,

Zalek

If it was me, I'd put a small fan in the lower right (viewed from the back)
section pointing towards the side (just below where the power cable
connects) to suck air from the inside. You can get those same style fans in
115 VAC (GOOGLE is your friend) so as not to have to deal with another power
supply. BTW, computer fans are usually 12 V not 5 V.

--
SoCalCommie
http://so-la-i.com/

WARNING: Due to Presidential Executive Orders, the National Security Agency
may have read this message without warning, warrant, or notice. They may do
this without any judicial or legislative oversight.
 
I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:

electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?

I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?

Thanks,

Zalek

A fan will only solve the problem temporarily.

Why? Because the TV worked okay for over a year before developing this symtom.
That means something has changed or deteriorated. You have what is called a
"thermal intermittant". That's a problem that shows itself when things get
either hot or cold. The problem is either a solder connection that is going bad
or a component that is failing. If it is a component that is failing, it may be
stressing other components at the same time.

You are ultimately not going to win this one. That much is certain. If the TV
isn't worth a trip to the shop for a proper diagnosis and repair, then you have
nothing to lose except the time and effort. Even with your makeshift
work-around, it's days are numbered. The problem will get worse until there is a
more profound failure.
 
T

T

If it was me, I'd put a small fan in the lower right (viewed from the back)
section pointing towards the side (just below where the power cable
connects) to suck air from the inside. You can get those same style fans in
115 VAC (GOOGLE is your friend) so as not to have to deal with another power
supply. BTW, computer fans are usually 12 V not 5 V.

And should you put a fan in be sure to use a filter. Dust is another
enemy of small electronics.
 
D

Dan Espen

I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:

electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?

I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?

Those bands are the most common failure mode for LCDs.
There is some kind connector inside with a lot of pins.
The heat is making them loose contact.

I don't think it's cost effective to repair, but if you
succeed let us know. I have 2 LCDs with this problem
that I'm going to dispose of in the spring cleanup.
 
Z

zalek

A fan will only solve the problem temporarily.

Why? Because the TV worked okay for over a year before developing this symtom.
That means something has changed or deteriorated. You have what is called a
"thermal intermittant". That's a problem that shows itself when things get
either hot or cold. The problem is either a solder connection that is going bad
or a component that is failing. If it is a component that is failing, it may be
stressing other components at the same time.

You are ultimately not going to win this one. That much is certain. If the TV
isn't worth a trip to the shop for a proper diagnosis and repair, then you have
nothing to lose except the time and effort. Even with your makeshift
work-around, it's days are numbered. The problem will get worse until there is a
more profound failure.

Well - I tried to repair it - the technician kept it on for over 1
hour, but the TV worked OK. I noticed that the temperature in his shop
was much lower then in my apartment - I told him, but technician gave
up and refused to give estimate. I enjoy to play with electronics
gadget, so even my project will fail - for me it is fun.

Zalek
 
Z

zalek

And should you put a fan in be sure to use a filter. Dust is another
enemy of small electronics.

I noticed the dust collection on my PC motherboard, but how do you
apply dust filter?

Another question - computer fans run on AC or DC?

Thanks,

Zalek

Zalek
 
L

larry

I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:

electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?

I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?

Thanks,

Zalek

Frys and other electronics shops have cans of "circuit
cooler" that can be used to chill a suspect part. You might
be able to pinpoint the part that has changed value over
time. I would tend to look at electrolytic capacitors
first, then stressed diodes or transistors.

Also, try repair shops that have worked on that model, most
likely it is developing a reputation that a tech has seen
before. try the electronics repair boards, or google that
model and "+trouble".

-- larry / dallas
 
T

T

I noticed the dust collection on my PC motherboard, but how do you
apply dust filter?

Another question - computer fans run on AC or DC?

Thanks,

Zalek

Zalek

It should be on the intake of the fan. As for AC/DC I dont' honesly
know, but I recall that most I've run across seem to be DC.
 
A

Arfa Daily

SoCalCommie said:
If it was me, I'd put a small fan in the lower right (viewed from the
back) section pointing towards the side (just below where the power cable
connects) to suck air from the inside. You can get those same style fans
in 115 VAC (GOOGLE is your friend) so as not to have to deal with another
power supply. BTW, computer fans are usually 12 V not 5 V.


If it was me, I think I would try to figure out what is actually wrong with
it first. Fitting a fan is attacking the symptoms rather than the cause, and
if a component such as an electrolytic cap is failing, or a bad joint is
starting to show up, it is unlikely that its demise will be arrested for
good, merely by the addition of a fan. It's a bit like going to the doctor
and telling him that you get short of breath when you climb the stairs, and
his 'fix' for your problem being to suggest installing a stairlift ...

An intermittent problem such as is shown in your film, and that is clearly
heat related, should not be difficult to find, if you approach it armed with
a hair dryer, and a can of freezer. If it then proved to be an
'unrepairable' fault such as one of the LSIs, or even just a bad joint on
one, that you likely wouldn't be able to fix with basic home soldering
equipment, then you might consider that your TV has terminal lung cancer,
and the best you can do is to get what remaining life out of it that you
can, by installing that 'stairlift' !

Arfa
 
H
I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's  back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:

electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
 http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:  http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?

I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?

Thanks,

Zalek

The case is probably for reducing elelctromagnetic interference and
for physical protection of the parts.

As other posters have said, a fan will probably only prolong the time
until the TV fails again. I think a little alternate heat, from a
hair dryer, and a can of circuit coolant spray might help you to find
the area of the problem.

If it was me, I would just run the set with the case open and wait and
see, as long as there is no one who could get hurt by running the set
with the covers off.
 
J

Jerry G.

I would try to troubleshoot the set to find the components that have
become thermo sensitive, and change them. Then I would put in a fan if I
thought the set was running too hot.

If you have some thermo sensitive components in the TV set, with time
they will keep degrading until they fail. At this point, the problem may
be more serious.

--

Jerry G.



I am trying repaire my LCD TV Westinghouse LTV-32W3. I purchased it 1
1/2 year ago - it worked OK for about 1 year. After warranty expired
it works OK for about hour, after 1 hour the following symptoms
appeared:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/Bad-TV-2-1.wmv
The TV on the left is a good one, on the right Westinghouse LTV-32W3

I come to conclusion that some parts in the TV are getting too hot. To
test my theory I removed TV's back cover to allow better air
circulation - now TV is working without problem. What I want to do is
to install small fan to make a better cooling.
I am not a TV technician, so here are my questions:

electronics parts that are getting hot are enclosed in a metal case:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0014.JPG
here electonic parts with metal case removed:
http://www.evkosystems.kgbinternet.com/evkosystems/tv/IMG_0017.JPG
I guess the metal case is to prevent electromagnetic transmition - can
I make more holes in a metal case without causing electromagnetic
interferrence?

I plan to put inside a small fan, similar to one used in computers -
can you recommend one?
Can you recommend simply converter from 110 AC to 5V(?) DC to power
this fan?

Thanks,

Zalek
 
G

G-squared

I would try to troubleshoot the set to find the components that have
become thermo sensitive, and change them. Then I would put in a fan if I
thought the set was running too hot.

If you have some thermo sensitive components in the TV set, with time
they will keep degrading until they fail. At this point, the problem may
be more serious.

--

Jerry G.

<[email protected]> wrote in message

FWIW, we have a Samsung SIR-T165 ATSC tuner to go with the HD ready
50" DLP. The tuner was getting flaky when it got warmed up and would
begin stuttering. I found a rather warm IC (80 + pin Quad Flat Pack)
that seemed to operate better when cooler. I added a low speed fan (12
volt unit running on 7) 3 years ago and it's working fine. The tuner
has a VERY convenient way to do this as it has a 4 pin connector
identical (including pinout) to an IDE hard drive. I snagged a mating
connector from a junk PC power supply and connected the fan between
the +12 and +5. A little hot glue anchored the fan to the case.

Some faults are easier to 'band-aid' than to actually repair. I don't
know if is bad solder outside the chip or a potential fault inside it
but it has run over 6000 hours 'broken'.

I also have an old Sony digital audio processor that was inproperly
heat sinked on a regulator chip. It's not very common but not unheard
of to ship marginal design units.

SO, if the fan makes it work, enjoy it and don't lose sleep over it.

GG
 
Well - I tried to repair it - the technician kept it on for over 1
hour, but the TV worked OK. I noticed that the temperature in his shop
was much lower then in my apartment - I told him, but technician gave
up and refused to give estimate. I enjoy to play with electronics
gadget, so even my project will fail - for me it is fun.

Zalek

Most competent technicians would have had a heat gun and a spot heater and known
how to use them to induce thermal problems to make them present themselves.

Very basic technique in TV repair.
 
J

jakdedert

G-squared said:
FWIW, we have a Samsung SIR-T165 ATSC tuner to go with the HD ready
50" DLP. The tuner was getting flaky when it got warmed up and would
begin stuttering. I found a rather warm IC (80 + pin Quad Flat Pack)
that seemed to operate better when cooler. I added a low speed fan (12
volt unit running on 7) 3 years ago and it's working fine. The tuner
has a VERY convenient way to do this as it has a 4 pin connector
identical (including pinout) to an IDE hard drive. I snagged a mating
connector from a junk PC power supply and connected the fan between
the +12 and +5. A little hot glue anchored the fan to the case.

Some faults are easier to 'band-aid' than to actually repair. I don't
know if is bad solder outside the chip or a potential fault inside it
but it has run over 6000 hours 'broken'.

I also have an old Sony digital audio processor that was inproperly
heat sinked on a regulator chip. It's not very common but not unheard
of to ship marginal design units.

SO, if the fan makes it work, enjoy it and don't lose sleep over it.

GG
It's one thing to 'fix' by proper heat control when something is flaky
'out of the box' so to speak. It's a little different when the problem
is caused by heat over a period of time. Then things go bad, and
replacement is often the only option.

I have a DVD recorder with a known heat problem. Finally the marginal
filter caps died and the machine just 'freaked out'. I did serious
thermal improvements, replaced the filters and got the ps working. I
haven't dx'd it yet, but although most symptoms disappeared, it's still
not 'right'.

I found a novel way to add a fan to that one: the molex connector from
the ps had spacing which was perfect for the fan connector (from a cpu
heatsink). I cut two small pieces of wire from a paperclip and forced
them into the top of the connector on the 12v line. Thus I was able to
plug the fan in a sort of 'piggy back' fashion, without soldering or
splicing any lines...nice, clean, secure connection.

jak
 
M

Meat Plow

If it was me, I think I would try to figure out what is actually wrong with
it first. Fitting a fan is attacking the symptoms rather than the cause, and
if a component such as an electrolytic cap is failing, or a bad joint is
starting to show up, it is unlikely that its demise will be arrested for
good, merely by the addition of a fan. It's a bit like going to the doctor
and telling him that you get short of breath when you climb the stairs, and
his 'fix' for your problem being to suggest installing a stairlift ...

An intermittent problem such as is shown in your film, and that is clearly
heat related, should not be difficult to find, if you approach it armed with
a hair dryer, and a can of freezer. If it then proved to be an
'unrepairable' fault such as one of the LSIs, or even just a bad joint on
one, that you likely wouldn't be able to fix with basic home soldering
equipment, then you might consider that your TV has terminal lung cancer,
and the best you can do is to get what remaining life out of it that you
can, by installing that 'stairlift' !

It's like putting a BandAid on a skin Melanoma.
 
T

T

The case is probably for reducing elelctromagnetic interference and
for physical protection of the parts.

As other posters have said, a fan will probably only prolong the time
until the TV fails again. I think a little alternate heat, from a
hair dryer, and a can of circuit coolant spray might help you to find
the area of the problem.

If it was me, I would just run the set with the case open and wait and
see, as long as there is no one who could get hurt by running the set
with the covers off.

It's an LCD, which means it's more than likely a low voltage device.
Doesn't take much more than 12V tops to run them.
 
J

jJim McLaughlin

[email protected] wrote:

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Repeating our message verycouple of days won't necessarily generate a
respose, and may even piss some folks off.
 
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