Q: Anyone using a Deskjet printer and transparancies to make photo negatives of PCBs?

[Adam Bradley]

I'm planning to move from my prototype board to a DIY PCB which brings me to
my next question!

Found this article
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/vk3yng/pcb/making_pcbs.htm article on making
PCBs at home - looks interesting and I'm going to have a go myself!

I have a Canon SP3000 Deskjet printer (1400x770 DPI) and was wondering, is
it the Epson film (S041063) or the printer that makes the difference?

My first attempt with Photocopier transparancies was a disaster. I left it
to dry overnight and the ink ran everywhere.

Any tips?

TIA!
Adam

 

[Alan Rutlidge]

I'm planning to move from my prototype board to a DIY PCB which brings me to
my next question!

Found this article
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/vk3yng/pcb/making_pcbs.htm article on making
PCBs at home - looks interesting and I'm going to have a go myself!

I have a Canon SP3000 Deskjet printer (1400x770 DPI) and was wondering, is
it the Epson film (S041063) or the printer that makes the difference?

My first attempt with Photocopier transparancies was a disaster. I left it
to dry overnight and the ink ran everywhere.

Any tips?

TIA!
Adam

Adam,

You can't use transparency material intend for photocopiers or laser
printers in inkjet printers. It doesn't have the correct surface
composition to hold the ink in place. As you have discovered the ink runs
everywhere, not to mention how it has possibly cross colour contaminated
your print heads.

I use 3M (CG3460) A4 size transparency film in my Epson Photo EX with very
good results. Just remember to put the film in the correct side up when you
print it and select the correct print medium in your printer set up
preferences.

Cheers,
Alan

 

[Marc Hanssens]

I have not done this my self but I believe that you need to use the "ink jet"
transparency film and then you have to put it through 2 -4 times to get it dark
enough. another option is to use a special film which you put in your ink jet
printer and then Iron it onto the copper coated board to form the black for the
track. Unfortunately I can't remember wher to get the film from.

marc

 

[Adam Bradley]

Happy to report that I bought some transparency film today (Apollo
CG7039 - recommended for Canon SP3000 bubblejet printers) and have
tested a printout and it worked a treat!

Nice crisp line even given the 12.5mil separation between some
tracks. Cant wait to expose/etch etc later this week (its dark!)

Adam

 

[eug k]

I have not done this my self but I believe that you need to use the "ink jet"
transparency film and then you have to put it through 2 -4 times to get it dark
enough. another option is to use a special film which you put in your ink jet
printer and then Iron it onto the copper coated board to form the black for the
track. Unfortunately I can't remember wher to get the film from.

for simpler designs that don't have really thin tracks, I used to just print the
design out in reverse (mirror-image) with as much toner as possible (often I'd
just photocopy it really dark) onto normal paper, then just iron it well onto a
PCB. once it has cooled down, soak it in water and remove the paper. The toner
would have transferred to the PCB, making a fairly good resist. I'd fix up any
gaps with a pen, then if I want to make the board real quick, fill up a tough bag
with a concentrated ferric chloride solution (mixed from powder.. an exothermic
reaction so it gets hot by itself), double or triple-bag it, and "carefully" shake
it vigourously... one method is to hold on to the board and shake it, so the
solution runs all around it. Only takes maybe 2 minutes.. really quick! Gotta make
sure the ferric chloride doesnt eat through the resist though.