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Press 'n Peel laser PCB's opinions

C

Claus Jensen

I am thinking of trying "Press 'n Peel" film with the idea it would
be more reliable than the homemade toner release papers, etc.

Can anyone who has used it, please report their good or bad
experiences?

Any hints to obtain better results?

Or is it not significantly better than the type of process described
here:

http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/garbz2_prj.php

Claus Jensen
 
M

Martin Riddle

Claus Jensen said:
I am thinking of trying "Press 'n Peel" film with the idea it would
be more reliable than the homemade toner release papers, etc.

Can anyone who has used it, please report their good or bad
experiences?

Any hints to obtain better results?

Or is it not significantly better than the type of process described
here:

http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/garbz2_prj.php

Claus Jensen

Press n Peel works well, it does have some issues with fine pitch
artwork. But I've done 2 sided boards with good results.
For fine pitch artwork I tried the iron on foils with better results,
but they tend to stretch on larger boards.

Cheers
 
R

Rich Webb

I am thinking of trying "Press 'n Peel" film with the idea it would
be more reliable than the homemade toner release papers, etc.

Can anyone who has used it, please report their good or bad
experiences?

Any hints to obtain better results?

Or is it not significantly better than the type of process described
here:

http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/garbz2_prj.php

I've used it but not recently, having become a convert to the low cost
commercial board services.

PnP is nice in that it eliminates the "soak and scrub" steps required of
methods that use inkjet photo paper, glossy magazine pages, or the paper
sold directly as toner transfer paper. Once the PnP has fused with the
PCB blank, just let it cool and peel off the backing.

Surface prep is critical. The blank must be completely cleaned of oxides
and contaminants, like fingerprints. And cat hair...

The toner is also critical. Some laser printer toners just don't
transfer well while others are easy. Refilled cartridges may also be
chancier. If the board is clean but the toner doesn't transfer then you
may need to use another printer/copier. I'd imagine that you can get an
idea of how well your toner will transfer by just printing any image or
text onto a transfer-friendly paper (a glossy, clay coated magazine
page) and trying to fuse it onto a cleaned blank.

One thing to consider is moving to 31 mil (1/32") blanks instead of the
more common 62 mil (1/16"). Home-brew boards are usually small enough
that the mechanical strength of thicker boards is offset by the ease of
cutting (regular scissors will work, no scoring or grinding required)
and the reduction in dust the from holes.

If you DO move to 31 mil, then you may want to think about using a
laminating machine as the fuser instead of a hot clothes iron. The stack
height of a 31 mil board, plus the PnP and a backing sheet will often be
within the capacity of a laminator. It may take a couple of passes but
you'll be using a consistent pressure and heat with each run.
 
J

Jamie

Claus said:
I am thinking of trying "Press 'n Peel" film with the idea it would
be more reliable than the homemade toner release papers, etc.

Can anyone who has used it, please report their good or bad
experiences?

Any hints to obtain better results?

Or is it not significantly better than the type of process described
here:

http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/garbz2_prj.php

Claus Jensen
Get a few sheets of Mylar... It has worked for us..

But one thing to note, I have found that on any
approach that you use, if you don't first heat the board
a little in a toaster oven or hot air gun prior to applying the
image to the clad, you may get spotty results here and there..

The heating does 2 things, dries the surface and gets it hot
so the toner can stick better.

I have done this with direct paper on the board with great
results. Just soak off afterwards. But photo inkjet (glossy) is
my primary paper, from printer to board.
 
C

Claus Jensen

But one thing to note, I have found that on any
approach that you use, if you don't first heat the board
a little in a toaster oven or hot air gun prior to applying the
image to the clad, you may get spotty results here and there..

The heating does 2 things, dries the surface and gets it hot
so the toner can stick better.

I have done this with direct paper on the board with great
results. Just soak off afterwards. But photo inkjet (glossy) is
my primary paper, from printer to board.

Has anyone tried running the paper through the printer twice, eg.
over-printing the image, to get more laser toner onto the paper?

Could be a registration problem, but may be acceptable for larger
patterns. A few tries and one is bound to be close.

Claus Jensen
 
D

D from BC

I am thinking of trying "Press 'n Peel" film with the idea it would
be more reliable than the homemade toner release papers, etc.

Can anyone who has used it, please report their good or bad
experiences?

Any hints to obtain better results?

Or is it not significantly better than the type of process described
here:

http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/garbz2_prj.php

Claus Jensen

I never got PnP to work reliably and consistantly.
Maybe I was doing something wrong.
And when I needed smaller detail, PnP became more of a hassle.
I now make boards by laminating a photosensitive film and photoexposing.
 
J

Jon Slaughter

D said:
I never got PnP to work reliably and consistantly.
Maybe I was doing something wrong.
And when I needed smaller detail, PnP became more of a hassle.
I now make boards by laminating a photosensitive film and
photoexposing.

Where do you get the film from?
 
J

JosephKK

Has anyone tried running the paper through the printer twice, eg.
over-printing the image, to get more laser toner onto the paper?

Could be a registration problem, but may be acceptable for larger
patterns. A few tries and one is bound to be close.

Claus Jensen

Though it is not discussed in your link or Gootee's page it has been
reported to help when you have large copper areas.
 
J

Jamie

JosephKK said:
Though it is not discussed in your link or Gootee's page it has been
reported to help when you have large copper areas.
That does not work well with my cheap Brother printer, the printer seems
to have issues aligning the sheet in the same place each time.

But in any case, I usually have good luck on a single pass..
 
J

Jon Slaughter

Jon said:
How hard is it to apply to the copper? It's about a 50% savings over
buying presensitized boards. If it's pretty easy to use then it's a
significant savings.

And I assume it works pretty good?
 
D

D from BC

How hard is it to apply to the copper? It's about a 50% savings over buying
presensitized boards. If it's pretty easy to use then it's a significant
savings.

I find it easy..

I squeegee the film on small boards using my drivers license card.
 
D

D from BC

And I assume it works pretty good?

Yes.
Under 4x magnification etched pcb traces look sharp.

Soon I'll be trying a 'low haze' transparency film which may reduce the
exposure time when using a 50W halogen.
 

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