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Possible short in Rad2X - RGB2HDMI

Hey All,

Need some assistance if at all possible. I read some of the helpful tidbits and I'll try to be as informative as I can be. I have a Rad2x which is a retro device that allows connection of retro consoles to an HDMI output. (Sega Saturn, PlayStation, Nintendo etc) https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...RIVE-2-GENESIS-2-32X-HD-RAD2X-HDMI-480P-CABLE

Essentially, I was trying to troubleshoot a Sega Saturn that was not getting video the Saturn didn't have the plastic shielding that prevented the PSU from touching the chassis so sparks flew when i turned it on and it seems to have killed my Rad2x and somehow my HDMI to display port adapter. Anyway the rad2x does power on but there's no video output even if nothing is plugged into the rad2x or it doesn't register a device plugged in i should still at least get a multicolored screen which i do not. I took it apart and i cannot find any "burned" areas on the board or any area that looks damaged. But, i am noticing shorts with some capacitors and also noticing a few components getting really warm or hot when i plug the rad2x through the micro usb port. There is one component that seems to be the hottest and i am having a hard time trying to figure out what part it is. Following the components search tips from the forum i did find options but i honestly don't know much about this stuff to say that part would be the correct one. The part from the motherboard looks to be a Texas Instruments 97 2112A is the part. I honestly am not sure if swapping out this part would fix the issue but in terms of me googling and researching how to diagnose and resolve shorts seems to be generally the part that generates the most heat is the part that needs to be removed/replaced.

Any help or guidance would be appreciated. I have another Rad2x but this one is specifically for Nintendo products but looking at the pcb it looks to have the same components so essentially that's how I am able to tell if something is shorted or not using the multimeter and testing for continuity comparing the non working and the working.

I'll be attaching a few pictures to try to help. The top of the pcb has one short i could find and the bottom had many shorts. The shorts are marked in red. In yellow is essentially the 2nd hottest components I've felt on the board and in green is the most hottest and also the part I'm trying to find a replacement for.

Also, if I am going about it the wrong way please don't hesitate to let me know any help would be appreciated.

crop bottom rgb2hdmi.jpg crop top rgb2hdmi.jpg chip.jpg
 

bertus

Moderator
Hello,

Did you check the fuses F1 and F2 (marked bm on the pictures)?
There is one on each side of the PCB.

Bertus
 
i checked them in the sense of seeing if they gave me continuity compared to the working rad2x. and they both did so i figured they're working as they should? i just checked them both and also checked the nintendo rad2x both fuses on both devices give me roughly 000.6 ohms.
 
Alright,

Still struggling with this. Trying to figure out where the short is. I compared the non working rad 2x with the working rad2x and found that the sot 353 i believe (says QUW on it) the upper left leg is shorted to ground. I have highlighted it with a yellow arrow and checking for continuity on the working one i have indicated in green circles. and the green circles match up with the areas that have shorts. now i have removed the sot-353 I've even removed the 97 2112a I've also removed the cap to the left of the 353 but i still have a short. not sure how i can best narrow it down or should i just try to start removing all the caps until i figure out which one is shorted or what is shorted?

arrow crop bottom rgb2hdmi.jpg
 
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