Phone's car charger

[pharaon]

This is my phone's car charger recently it charge the phone for 5 minutes then start to flicking charge / not charge
I tried the same cable on other charger and working fine

I hope to know what part of it causes that problem
I disconnect the two capacitors and test it and it gave the right values



 

[(*steve*)]

You charge your car with that?

Just kidding.

I expect that your phone is attempting to draw a higher current from the charger than it can supply.

Is the other charger exactly the same type?

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir pharaon . . . . .


If you have 12VDC coming into the spring and tip Cig lighter adapter plug and then on past the 6Ω fusible resistor and also at the first filter capacitor; but with no reduced and regulated voltage back at the second filter cap, near to the USB port. Or with it going up and down in value ?

Its could be that your 8 pin XL150? Buck DC- DC converter IC is bad. ***** . . . . or some of its support components.

Give ALL the numbering from that IC as they each put out specific voltages. . . . . and I can’t read ALL of its numbers.

Fill us in on the two voltages to be tested for and also test the 222V Schottky diode that provides your DC . . . . . . to see if it is not shorted . . . . by using DVM diode testing mode. Expecting in the ~200mv forward voltage junctions value.

*****
Since you are “scopeless” . . . . . in order to test that IC . . . do you still have your battery powered AM radio and tape player that we fixed sometimes back ?

Aside:

I expect that your phone is attempting to draw a higher current from the charger than it can supply.
The XL150X units spec out at up to 3A output.

Still looking for a Philips / NXP data sheet for that dual driver LTA803N, I SEE, that is being used in that other Hoolet Plastered Powerless Supply of yours.

TECHNO REFERENCING Markups:

73’s de Edd

 

[pharaon]

I expect that your phone is attempting to draw a higher current from the charger than it can supply.

it was working fine these days that fault start to happen

 

[pharaon]

Fill us in on the two voltages to be tested for and also test the 222V Schottky diode that provides your DC

i didn't get exactly what do you mean and what 222v? can you show me on the picture which part you want me exactly to measure

Since you are “scopeless” . . . . . in order to test that IC . . . do you still have your battery powered AM radio and tape player that we fixed sometimes back ?

yes i still have it

 

[pharaon]

Give ALL the numbering from that IC as they each put out specific voltages. . . . . and I can’t read ALL of its numbers.

Xl 1509
Adje1
32694
That is what written on the 8pin IC

 

[pharaon]

test the 222V Schottky diode that provides your DC

it's SS34 Schottky diode
i test it on diode scale in my multimeter it gave me those reading both sides
0.1640
0.8750

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir pharaon . . . . .

You say:
i didn't get exactly what do you mean and what 222v?

Well . . .it just looks like 222V is what SS34 seems to have appeared like after I had inverted and reversed the image, in order to create a mirrored-same sized, foil side and component side photographic referencing.

Plus it was a bit blurry . . . . . to begin with,

BUT I was able to confirm the IC type, of which, your last supplied numbers told me that it was being the adjustable voltage output version.

It just uses divider resistors to set its voltage output, which I suspect to be utilized at 5VDC.

i test it on diode scale in my multimeter it gave me those reading both sides
0.1640
0.8750

Your magic number was that 0.1640 as being its Vf junction voltage, with the .8750, just being a back read to some adjunct solid state circuitry junction (s) .

I can see the plastic case housing conforming around the PCB with the two ground shell contacts jutting out and with the central tapered compression spring making contact with a fuse and its other end making contact to the 12VDC button contact that connects to the central + of the Cigar lighter receptacle.

If you get any DC power output from the unit to your phone , all of the 12VDC inputs aspects should be good.

Why not now power up the unit from 12VDC input and monitor across the 470 ufd 6VDC filter for your 5VDC supply to see if a steady 5 ? VDC output is there.

Then if the RED-BLACK- Bare COPPER wire is the output to your phone, plug it into the phone and see if the +5VDC still holds steady or starts cycling up and down ? . . . or drops down and off completely.

Feedback Time . . . . .

73’s de Edd

 

[pharaon]

Why not now power up the unit from 12VDC input and monitor across the 470 ufd 6VDC filter for your 5VDC supply to see if a steady 5 ? VDC output is there.

You want me to measure DC across the second capacitor?
Did i get you right

Then if the RED-BLACK- Bare COPPER wire is the output to your phone, plug it into the phone and see if the +5VDC still holds steady or starts cycling up and down ? . . . or drops down and off completely

It's not, it's for the flash memory FM transmitting
My phone get charge from the USB output

 

[pharaon]

You want me to measure DC across the second capacitor?
Did i get you right

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir pharaon . . . . .

Yes, that is what looks to be a 470 microfarads @ six VDC rating, it is the storage capacitor for the converted voltage .
We are wanting to know if it holds at a steady five volts output, with no loading on the unit. If so, then you start trying connecting on progressively larger load resistors to simulate different current pulls of 100 milliamperes, 250 milliamperes, 500 milliamperes, on up to 1 amp. By using respectively lowered load resistor combos of 50,~12-15,~6-10 and 5 ohms, being connected across that 470 ufd cap.
See if there is a load threshold at which things start becoming abnormal, the voltage pulses on and off, or the unit shuts down its 5 vdc power output.

Another consideration now . . . . . .

I was considering this unit as receiving maybe 10 or 12 uses per year, only when you needed it to charge your phone after not having charged it in the house .
Therefore, with its storage basically relegated to being in the glove compartment box of the car, being pulled out and receiving only occasional use.( Read as . . . . an everlasting lifespan.)
Now with you filling us in on probably . . . the daily use of the unit . . .(times X years) . . . as a power supplier for an FM modulator used in your vehicle . . . . so that makes a different run-time of use story on the reliability of the components within the unit .
It actually, now over a period of time, has fully had enough use to consider the decline of that 470 ufd capacitor and the onset of ESR to fully upset its filtering and power storage capability .
To work around your not having that proper test equipment for ESR evaluative capability, just connect another 470 unit across that one and then re test and re-evaluate the systems power output capabilities.

73's de Edd

 

[pharaon]

I test it without load the voltage didn't drop below 5 V
And i connect my phone to be charged from it it stayed at 4.25 V and didn't flicking like in car
Does that mean the problem could be in the car's cigarette housing

I use it as FM transmitting daily
But as charge maybe twice a month

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir pharaon . . . . .

Does that mean the problem could be in the car's cigarette housing.
Possibly ? . . . .
A confirmation would be to rotate the unit within the housing a full 180 degrees, many,many times, since the side two negative contact parts encompass such a great contact area.
That should scrape and create a cleaning of both.
Then the power units easily accessible tiny center button for the + contact area needs to be polished clean of any possible oxide covering.
THEN the hard part . . . . .of cleaning of the button contact within the center of the cigar lighter.
Possibly the use of a wooden stick with a full wrap . . . end to end . . . . of some emery cloth or wet and dry silicon carbide paper . Then use both a rotary and side to side slide of the stick to polish that contact. Along with a BRIGHT flashlight, lighting the internal area.

73's de Edd

 

[pharaon]

any solution?
other charger working fine
but this one keep flashing the charge on my phone
what possibly could be the failure part in the charger

 

[pharaon]

i changed the 16v 47uf capacitors but still the same issue
what else could be the cause of that problem
other chargers work fine

 

[(*steve*)]

Did you change the 470uF capacitor?

 

[pharaon]

Did you change the 470uF capacitor?

yes both of them replaced with new one and still the same issue charge/not charge flaking every 2 seconds

 

[(*steve*)]

Did you use low ESR capacitors, and did you have 2 different value capacitors (47uF and 470uF)

 

[pharaon]

Did you use low ESR capacitors, and did you have 2 different value capacitors (47uF and 470uF)

replaced both with 470up 25v capacitors

 

[pharaon]

do i need to replace the IC?