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Panasonic Plasma 10 blinks, out of ideas

So i have a panasonic plasma 50px600u that is giving me major headaches. I have been without a living room tv for almost two months while i have been trying to fix it to no avail. i am getting the 10 blink error during plug-in which i followed panasonics flowchart and it says to replace board which i did. come to find out the original was fine and the problem still persists. Everytime i follow the flowchart it tells me to replace the power board so im lost for ideas here. i visually inspected all boards but i cant seem to figure out where this error is originating from. This tv is starting to agrivate me. the boards are fairly cheap used and if i can just narrow it down the board i can order a replacement but i have no idea where to start.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
 
Did you try Google, there is a plethora of information out there about this error code, with lots of hints on what to look for and what causes it...

Google
 
tried that quite a while ago. most if not all refer to 10 blinks during power on not plug-in and some refer to components of the power board being at fault. but panasonic says the 10 blinks could be cause by almost anything so the error code system is pretty useless

Did you try Google, there is a plethora of information out there about this error code, with lots of hints on what to look for and what causes it...

Google
 
tried that quite a while ago. most if not all refer to 10 blinks during power on not plug-in and some refer to components of the power board being at fault. but panasonic says the 10 blinks could be cause by almost anything so the error code system is pretty useless

I only quickly glanced at the results, but what I saw was a lot of suggestions on what to test, what to replace, what components can cause it and where to look in an attempt to fix the issue... Have you explored ALL those suggestions?
 
yes i have. i found out how others had resolved the 10 blink error and tested my tv to see if perhaps it was the same problem but so far, no luck. the only suspicious thing i can find is burn marks on the main board where the HDMI port is located but i hear about hdmi ports burning out all the time and cant see any reason for that being the culprit.

I only quickly glanced at the results, but what I saw was a lot of suggestions on what to test, what to replace, what components can cause it and where to look in an attempt to fix the issue... Have you explored ALL those suggestions?
 
If somethings burned, chances are that IS the problem. I take it youre not using HDMI. Even so, if something visibly fries, it always raises the questions of what caused it and what knock on effects it might have. Maybe a surge caused it and killed a dozen other components on the way or may the heat in that area killed something else. You have no way of knowing. Not everything that breaks does so visibly. It could even be that the error occurs if any single part of the board is broken. Any or all of those possibilities basically.

In short - your board is toast. No part of it should be burned nomatter how insignificant you think it is.
 
I have seen many articles about cable and satellite boxes frying HDMI ports. not the entire tv but just the port. but i suppose theres a small chance the input from the box which caused enough heat to burn out the HDMI port could by chance hava affected further down the line. Although the HDMI ports are on the main processing board they connect through a bridge to the video board. (Seems like an odd design) so any further damage should be on the video board but a damaged video board has its own specific blink code.

If somethings burned, chances are that IS the problem. I take it youre not using HDMI. Even so, if something visibly fries, it always raises the questions of what caused it and what knock on effects it might have. Maybe a surge caused it and killed a dozen other components on the way or may the heat in that area killed something else. You have no way of knowing. Not everything that breaks does so visibly. It could even be that the error occurs if any single part of the board is broken. Any or all of those possibilities basically.

In short - your board is toast. No part of it should be burned nomatter how insignificant you think it is.
 
I have seen many articles about cable and satellite boxes frying HDMI ports. not the entire tv but just the port. but i suppose theres a small chance the input from the box which caused enough heat to burn out the HDMI port could by chance hava affected further down the line.

It's not always a 'small' chance, every device is unique... If the PC board has internal layers it can be a huge chance especially if some of the hidden internal traces that control other things are in the general vicinity... Also without knowing why it burned you have no idea of what kind of damage could have happened further down the line...

In short what doesn't cause an issue on one device could cause catastrophic failure on another...
 
So the possibility is always there but i still face the problem of identifying the faulty board as swapping them out one by one is just impractical and way to costly. but identifying the fault board seems to be a challenge since the error comes up immediately shutting the tv down so i cant follow any voltage paths.

It's not always a 'small' chance, every device is unique... If the PC board has internal layers it can be a huge chance especially if some of the hidden internal traces that control other things are in the general vicinity... Also without knowing why it burned you have no idea of what kind of damage could have happened further down the line...

In short what doesn't cause an issue on one device could cause catastrophic failure on another...
 
ok, so heres some numbers i just got.

after reading through a different panasonic manual i found this:

If the SUB 5V,
SUB 9V or MAIN
3.3V is missing
on the DG Board,
the unit goes into
shutdown.
The power LED
blinks ten times.
The voltages are
monitored on the
DG board by the
MPU, IC1103.

So to test these voltages there is test points on the PA board. for each.

while plugged in and blinking the error code all 3 had no voltage but with the test points connected and unpluggign and plugging the tv back in the Main got up to 1.5V before the tv went into shutdown and the other two got up to 2.5 before shutdown. not sure if its just my digital meter too slow to read the full voltage before it shutdown. When unplugged i tested resistance with the ground to see if anything was shorted. the Main 3.3 has a solid connection to ground and the other two connect for a fraction of a second and then read open.

Im no expert but im pretty sure the +Main 3.3 shouldnt be grounded out. could it be the PA board has a short which is dumping the power to ground and tripping the error?
 
Here is a link to the service manual:

http://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_th-50px600u_ch_gp9du.pdf/download.html

Wait briefly then click get manual under the preview picture.

around Pg. 82 is the schematics and block diagrams for the PA board. The only ground i can see which might affect it is on pg. 83 the IC5601A board im not sure if the on/off ground is where im getting the connection or if its unrelated. no other test points connect to ground.

There is a good deal on a replacement board that i would like to get if this is the problem before it disapears.
 
Well,

found the problem. The PA board did in fact have a shorted Main 3.3V which put the tv into shutdown. i swapped the PA board today and im one step closer. that solved my 10 blinks but sadly now i have 11 blinks for a fan SOS and i found 2 of the 3 fans to be defective so now i need to swap those out and hopefully then see a lit up screen. but as for the 10 blink problem it was the PA board so anyone with the same problem stumbling upon this looking for answers check the test points on the PA board labeled TPM33V, TPS5V, TPS9V for a connection to the ground. one probe to the test point the other to the chassis or grounding pad where the mounting screws go. a connection to ground = bad board.

With that being said. the defective fans are 12v 0.06Amp would using a slightly higher amperage fan be detremental to the board?
 
With that being said. the defective fans are 12v 0.06Amp would using a slightly higher amperage fan be detremental to the board?

Possibly, you would need to check the drive circuit and see what it can drive, also the higher current draw might toss an error and you will be back to square one even if the drive circuit can drive it...
 
Just checked the Amperage with the multimeter and each fan is allocated 1.2Amps. So as long as the fan isnt drawing excessive current from damage or wear im assuming two 0.1 Amp fans can replace the two 0.06 amp fans without a problem.

Possibly, you would need to check the drive circuit and see what it can drive, also the higher current draw might toss an error and you will be back to square one even if the drive circuit can drive it...
 
Just checked the Amperage with the multimeter and each fan is allocated 1.2Amps. So as long as the fan isnt drawing excessive current from damage or wear im assuming two 0.1 Amp fans can replace the two 0.06 amp fans without a problem.

Is that the current threshold where the CPU detects a fault and tosses a fan error, or is that the total current available to each fan physically?

You have two concerns can the circuit handle the additional current and if so will it trigger a fault in the CPU...
 
I measured the amperage at the plug to each fan and they all read either 1.9 or 2 amps. The SOS detect should only shutdown the tv if it detects no return voltage from a fan. So as far as I can tell as long as I don't exceed the amperage provided then I should be fine with a slightly higher amperage fan especially with 1.8 amps to spare. I wired a .1 amp fan in place if one of two faulty fans and the tv powers is but without another fan to take place for the other faulty fan it still goes into shutdown.

Is that the current threshold where the CPU detects a fault and tosses a fan error, or is that the total current available to each fan physically?

You have two concerns can the circuit handle the additional current and if so will it trigger a fault in the CPU...
 
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