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Panasonic DMR-ES15 - Please Wait !!

Hi all,

I have received this Panasonic DVD recorder and was wondering if anyone may be able to shine some light on the unit.

On startup it displays on the lcd on the front "Please Wait" and nothing happens .... can't turn it off with the button on the front or eject it either. One of the caps is very slightly raised but overall main power board looks ok. Probably out my depth a bit to be honest but if anyone has any info of where I might start I would appreciate it.IMG_20190706_201128.jpg IMG_20190706_201128.jpg IMG_20190706_201051.jpg IMG_20190706_201128.jpg IMG_20190706_201051.jpg
 

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Do you have any test gear to test the power supply voltages?
Several Google searches suggest bad caps and one result returned that ,
to quote them......
The "Please Wait" message is caused by the hard drive not spinning up.

Supply the model number, as it can help with a circuit diagram.
 
Thanks Bluejets, the model is DMR-ES15. No hard drive that I can see as this model I believe is like a writable DVD drive. I did see the Google search you mentioned also and discovered no internal fan or hard drive in this unit.

Yes I have a Multi meter but certainly wouldn't say I an expert, open to any suggestions though. I have replaced caps before on other items but to be honest unless its visible to me I'm pretty much lost.

https://www.cnet.com/reviews/panasonic-dmr-es15-review/
 
Previous answer was as I was only going on what I could find with the info given but thanks to the extra model detail I did find a reference to it not being a malfunction but rather the unit is in recovery mode ( whatever that means)
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/118159/Panasonic-Diga-Dmr-Es15.html?page=45

I attempted to repair a Panasonic BluRay model last year with multiple problems. i.e. 4 areas in the power supply had been , what appeared as , a lightning hit or line surge. Spent maybe 8 hours trying to find the problem, even ran it past local radio repair shop who confirmed what I had done was correct but there was a digital problem somewhere. Estimated cost of second hand board (if he could find one) was $300.00.

Answer was to do an online search through Gumtree for s/h units and managed to pick up one hardly used, rear bluetooth speakers and all, for $60.00. (Brisbane)
Point being , if it sometime appears to be in the "too hard basket" might be time to look at this as an alternative.
A deciding factor I think is that you have very little experience with electronics.

You could do some voltage tests if they are marked but as with the lack of experience factor, a live power supply unit is not the best place for you to be poking around in.
 
Sir aussiedean . . . . .

I was only going on what I could find with the info given

But . . .but . . .BUT . . .BUT . . .BUT . . . .BUT . . . . . . . . the Punysonic model WAS given . . . within the posts INTRO HEADER . . . .

If you are hoping for your problem to be power supply related , initially consider that the most demands from the power supply itself, will be from the platter motor of the DVD/CD and then the laser itself and lastly the linear drive motor being associated with the electro/mechanical tracking of the laser across a disk.

With my not having accessed nor yet tried to find its relevant schematic, I am " reading " the board components from your photos and seeing the centrally located Switch Mode Power Transformer and seeing its outputs as being into three diodes, located just to the left of the t-former.
Two minor diodes are located at the top and one LARGE "6A" diode is being just below them.
In your set of provided GOOD photos of the unit , now, as far as seeing any clues of the doming upward of a canned capacitor, the only one I suspect / seem? to see . . . is being the cap closest to the banded /cathode of the " 6A ' diode.

Considering that there are 3 voltage supply levels and there being 1 or more capacitors and along with one each of the BLUE inductors, along with one of the 3 BLACK ferrite bead / isolative inductors being associated with each power supply level.

You might now check out your technical prowess with your DVM by doing this:

Place the instrument in ohms function, and LOWEST range, unless your unit is autoranging.
Short your meter probes together to familiarize yourself with what a direct connection / short . . . . displays its presences as . . . . on your unit.
THEN . . . .if you are one lucky ducky . . .the pcb's top left corners grounding tab will be found as being connected to every E-caps ground lead . . . as / with the E-caps band /stripe marking , is signifying its closest lead as being the caps negative polarity connection.
If you have any caps negatives not complying to that situation , visually inspect the foil paths that will branch out from that caps negative lead to see a directly connected component lead / wire that you would be able to touch with your meter probe from the TOP of the board.
Thereby, that would be letting you replace the board into circuit and do a test while the unit is operating.
Do the same explorations for all of the positive (the other) leads of each capacitor. Make up a handrawn paper chart to identify all of those points . . . be it a bare jumper wire or a shared component lead and be able to later refer to, to find that connection later TOPSIDE.
Also, you will be able to see WHICH diode feeds WHICH capacitor(s).
My one strong suspicion, is being that the HEAVY 6A diode does not feed the nearby suspect cap, but the large E-cap to its foreground side . . . .or possibly, quite circuitously . . . to the top left corner cluster of caps.

Next, since you have already used one of your 5 senses in observing that possibly domed cap, lets use yet another one of them.
You would now want to install the board and turn on the unit and let the units parts build up their heat over a 1 hour run time.
One index finger goes to the top of the suspect cap, while the other goes to another cap top for a like comparative reasoning .
The fingers for their simultaneous temp sensing abilities . . . . your brain for its logical reasoning capabiliuties and their combination, as an analytical balancing type of evaluation.
Then go to a like comparative temp testing of all of the other capacitor pairs on the board.
Any warmer or HOT units are suspect of having had time related deterioration, on downwards to to a marginal / bad condition.

The earlier set up preparation of being able to take metered readings across each of the E-caps relates to your now placing your instrumentation in AC volts function and at its lowest range. Then you power up the unit and measure across each E-capacitor . . . on the left side of the power transformer . . . . and take note of the AC volthge on all of the caps. Ones that are showing AC voltages are indicating an ineffectiveness of the caps filtering / bypasssing capabilities. That would be up into the volts or multi volts range with millivolts being the norm.


NOW . . . . .go ye forth and doittoit. . . . . . . We are awaiting your comeback with its findings.

73's de Edd . . . . .


What kind of a cruel and demented person was it that created the word . . . . . . and then, in turn, put an "s" in lisp?


 
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Yes I have a Multi meter but certainly wouldn't say I an expert, open to any suggestions though. I have replaced caps before on other items but to be honest unless its visible to me I'm pretty much lost.

If you do decide to poke around in there, to begin with make sure it is completely tuned off and discharge that rather big cap near the VEP71109 label with a 1K5 ohm 2w resistor, they REALLY bite.
 
To be precisely exact . . . . .turned off. . . . means being totally unplugged from the AC line . . . as per most honnable . . .Blue Jets (but not a Foxxie 16) . . . SINCE that main DC storage cap is being fully charged and operational . . .25 + hrs per day . . . in order for the units standby section of the power supply being able to power up the control electronics to your manual / or /the remotes demand for a turn on of the whole unit.
 
73's de Edd and Bluejets thankyou very much for your input, Its going in the too hard for now basket I'm afraid. The unit is way to old (Like me) I just don't have time at the moment to go thru all the testing. But please I do certainly appreciate your input.
 
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