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OT? DIY Powerstat Wiper Button

  • Thread starter Mark L. Fergerson
  • Start date
M

Mark L. Fergerson

I got a Powerstat type 10B cheap at a yard sale and discovered later
that the wiper button was missing. I've been advised that whittling a
replacement out of battery carbons, motor brushes, etc. is a Bad Idea.

Finding a proper (i. e. factory) replacement is simply not possible
as They Don't Make 'Em Anymore.

So, any suggestions what to use?


Mark L. Fergerson
 
J

John Fields

I got a Powerstat type 10B cheap at a yard sale and discovered later
that the wiper button was missing. I've been advised that whittling a
replacement out of battery carbons, motor brushes, etc. is a Bad Idea.

Finding a proper (i. e. factory) replacement is simply not possible
as They Don't Make 'Em Anymore.

So, any suggestions what to use?
 
P

Pooh Bear

Mark L. Fergerson said:
I got a Powerstat type 10B cheap at a yard sale and discovered later
that the wiper button was missing. I've been advised that whittling a
replacement out of battery carbons, motor brushes, etc. is a Bad Idea.

Finding a proper (i. e. factory) replacement is simply not possible
as They Don't Make 'Em Anymore.

So, any suggestions what to use?

You might get away with a fettled motor brush actually. A battery carbon
may not be tough enough.

Graham
 
O

Old Mac User

You need graphite, not just a carbon rod from a battery.

Motor brushes are graphite.
 
C

Chris

Mark said:
I got a Powerstat type 10B cheap at a yard sale and discovered later
that the wiper button was missing. I've been advised that whittling a
replacement out of battery carbons, motor brushes, etc. is a Bad Idea.

Finding a proper (i. e. factory) replacement is simply not possible
as They Don't Make 'Em Anymore.

So, any suggestions what to use?


Mark L. Fergerson

Hi, Mark. Variac wipers are just about the most difficult commutation
problem for their current rating. Generally, these variable
autotransformers will use a sandich-type carbon brush to achieve a
relatively high cross resistance in relation to the resistance going
the length of the brush from contact to wire.

Some motor brushes have a higher cross-resistance characteristic, too,
but your getting one that will happen to work well seems to be pretty
much a matter of chance. A regular carbon is, of course, out of the
question.

It happens that replacement brushes for Powerstats are available, but
you'll have to pay a few bucks. This was the first source I googled:

http://www.jenkins.com/jenkins/transformers/powerstat_brushes.htm

They show a replacement brush available for $23.00 USD. I'm sure your
yard sale Powerstat will still be a good deal, even with the purchased
replacement part. I'd buy it if I was in your shoes, instead of
cobbling together a replacement that probably won't work well under
rated load.

When you replace the brush, be sure to go over the lapped contact
surface of the winds with a lint-free cloth dampened with alcohol, to
remove any dust or dirt. Also check to make sure the wiper seats
evenly on the surface, and rotates freely. Poor alignment will kill
your brush or burn the wire surface quickly. Also, when you finish,
slide the contact across the entire surface, and check for any sparking
or discontinuities while it's sliding.

Good luck
Chris
 
J

Jasen Betts

I got a Powerstat type 10B cheap at a yard sale and discovered later
that the wiper button was missing. I've been advised that whittling a
replacement out of battery carbons, motor brushes, etc. is a Bad Idea.

Finding a proper (i. e. factory) replacement is simply not possible
as They Don't Make 'Em Anymore.

So, any suggestions what to use?

use the yeller pages, find a place that does motor rewinds, if they don't
have one they'll have a source, or the ability to manufacture one most
likely.

Bye.
Jasen
 
R

Rich Grise

use the yeller pages, find a place that does motor rewinds, if they don't
have one they'll have a source, or the ability to manufacture one most
likely.

I just did a quick google, and some guy says he bought a motor brush and
ground it to size, but that was only a 2.5A variac. Just be sure and
grind the nose down to a flat:


| |
\_/
...UUUUU <- windings

So that it exactly covers one winding - they're ground flat on the top,
you know.

Cheers!
Rich
 
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