A visual inspection wouldn't be a bad idea, look for smoke damage burned components and then check the soldering side for bad connections.
A model number wouldn't be a bad idea, a circuit diagram would no doubt help. No the tube won't implode providing you don't catch the tube base or bend the crt pins.
For health reasons seeing you are no engineer-:
1) Remove the mains plug
2) Get a well insulated long screwdriver, connected a crock/test lead to the screwdrivers blade and the other end to the spring, aquadag coating on the tube then not touching ANY METAL slide the screwdriver under the anode cap on to the connector inside - do this two at least twice leaving on a good few seconds. this discharges the high voltage on the tubes anode appx. 18 to 24KV, that is 18,000 to 24,000 Volts.
3) Wrap a resistor between say about 470 ohm to about 2 K ohm 1 watt rated resistor to a well insulated screwdriver metal blade, connect the other end of the resistor to a test lead, this is used to discharge the main DC smoothing capacitor., which may be around 350V. Connect the test lead to the -Ve side of the main DC smoothing capacitor, then hold the screwdriver on the +Ve terminal for a few seconds, do this a couple of times. What we are doing here is shorting the main DC smoothing capacitor out via a resistor to get rid of any voltage. These are usually about 100 to 220uF at no less than 350V DC working.
The set hopefully should now be safe to handle. REMEMBER.... It's the Volts that jolt and the mil's that kill - that is the current in milliamperes.
It is imperative any component that is replaced must be identical to the one that is taken out.
Having to hit the TV to make it work would suggest bad soldered joints, which means a re soldering, these usually look dull grey or cracked.
Even well seasoned TV engineers gets a 'whack' once in a while after the set has been switched off so do be careful.
Dave
