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Next: ATC vs. Glass Tube Fuses

S

Sir Spamalot

Firstly, I'd like to thank those that answered my "Type 2 vs. Type 3"
wire question.

Next question: I'm going to run heavy wire through a breaker at the
battery box, to a small fusebox behind the console. I'm looking at 2
Blue Seas units, a new one which has automotive type fuses, and the
original one which has glass tube fuses.

I'm not sure if the ATC type fuses are sealed, but seem to remember
that the glass tube fuses are. Hence, my thoughts are that the glass
tube fuses might prove to be more robust, especially for the salt
water environment. OTOH, the ATC fuses seem to be more prevalent, as
well as more "modern".

Anyone care to comment on this?

(After this one I think I'll go to work.....)

SS
 
S

Steve

Sir Spamalot said:
Next question: I'm going to run heavy wire through a breaker at the
battery box, to a small fusebox behind the console. I'm looking at 2
Blue Seas units, a new one which has automotive type fuses, and the
original one which has glass tube fuses.

I'm not sure if the ATC type fuses are sealed, but seem to remember
that the glass tube fuses are. Hence, my thoughts are that the glass
tube fuses might prove to be more robust, especially for the salt
water environment. OTOH, the ATC fuses seem to be more prevalent, as
well as more "modern".

I considered the same question when I found a need for a sub panel at my nav
station. So many small instruments that required seperate fuses. I wanted to
eliminate the inline fuses since they end up being lost, out of sight, in
the wiring runs..

I like all of the Blue Seas products, much better quality than the Sea Dog
crap. I also though the ATC fuse would be better because they are easier
to insert and remove and it is easier to see if they are blown. However I
didn't see any factional amp fuses, readily available. I suppose they are if
you really search but I don't imagine you going to find a 1/4 amp at the
local marina parts counter, when you can't get under way without that
gizzmo.

Hence, I opted for the standard glass fuse block that handles about 6 fuses
(already used them all). Several features that I liked about the Blues Seas
fuse block was: tinned or stainless buss bar and fuse clips (at least their
not bare copper), the little lever to eject the fuse and a nice clear
plastic safety cover with places for labels.
 
R

Rheilly Phoull

Steve said:
I considered the same question when I found a need for a sub panel at my nav
station. So many small instruments that required seperate fuses. I wanted to
eliminate the inline fuses since they end up being lost, out of sight, in
the wiring runs..

I like all of the Blue Seas products, much better quality than the Sea Dog
crap. I also though the ATC fuse would be better because they are easier
to insert and remove and it is easier to see if they are blown. However I
didn't see any factional amp fuses, readily available. I suppose they are if
you really search but I don't imagine you going to find a 1/4 amp at the
local marina parts counter, when you can't get under way without that
gizzmo.

Hence, I opted for the standard glass fuse block that handles about 6 fuses
(already used them all). Several features that I liked about the Blues Seas
fuse block was: tinned or stainless buss bar and fuse clips (at least their
not bare copper), the little lever to eject the fuse and a nice clear
plastic safety cover with places for labels.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions
Another thing to consider is that the fractional amp fuses are somewhat
prone to failure, remember that fuses are to protect the wiring not the
device. Solid state equipment is long gone before a fuse blows.
 
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