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Need Help Deciphering Circuit Board Schematic

Hello.

My name is Tim. I am a recent graduate from Florida Gulf Coast University with a Bachelor's Degree in Computer Science. However, I am not so experienced in circuit design, even something fairly simple.

I was recently given a MIG welder by a friend (Craftsman, re-branded Century 90GL). He claims the wire speed control never worked, and decided to try to repair it himself. It still doesn't work, so I decided to take a look at it. The wire speed DC motor is constantly receiving about 20 volts, regardless of the state of the switch on the nozzle handle. I checked the switch with an ohm meter. The switch works fine. I even disconnected the switch from the circuit board. The motor is still going. By looking at the physical circuit board, I have come up with the following schematic in EAGLE CAD, which I believe to be 99% accurate. My friend replaced two components, one was in a TO-220 package, and the other was in a TO-92 package. At this time, he is unable to find the components he removed from the board, so it is anybody's guess as to what they were. The components that are in the circuit now are an LM7812C voltage regulator (the TO-220 package) and an MPF 102 601 N-channel RF amplifier (the TO-92 package). (In the schematic, I replaced both with standard NPN transistors. I have no idea if that makes any sense...). There are also two "black and silver" diodes on the board, and two "black and orange" diodes on the board. They are labeled as such on the schematic.

That is the reason I'm posting. I need help deciphering this schematic, because it doesn't make any sense to me. For instance, the welder is DC only, no AC side. So the line voltage comes into the welder, goes to the power switch, through a transformer, and then through the power diodes. The wire speed control circuit board is then connected here, to this rectified power. So why is there a rectifier on the circuit board? Also, there are diodes towards the bottom of the schematic, which point up (i.e., allow flow from neg -> pos, but not pos -> neg (unless they're Zener diodes... I'm not sure)).

I have included the schematic I made in PDF form, as well as a "semi-schematic" that I received from the manufacturer, as that is about all I can fit into 97KB. I need help to make sense as to how this thing is supposed to work. The voltage coming into the board is approximately 18.7 - 36.3 volts, and the voltage going to the DC motor is approximately 7.1 - 20.6 volts.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your time.
 

Attachments

  • Craftsman Welder Circuit Board, Take 2.pdf
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  • pic29022.jpg
    pic29022.jpg
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(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
There is a bridge rectifier on the main board, probably as good design practice. If power is connected the wrong way around it won't matter.

See here for the pain and suffering that can be avoided when the designer decides to spend a few extra cents on something like this.

It is also quite possible that the high currents involved in welding and the use of long leads may cause large negative transients. This will at least turn them into large positive transients, which all other things being equal, are less likely to damage stuff.

It is also possible that this design has been used in a number of different welders, some perhaps using AC. This design would be suitable for both.

The upper part of the circuit is easy to understand. The switch provides a positive voltage, which passes through R1 and D1 to provide current to the base of T2 which turns on the motor.

To verify that this part is working, you should disconnect one end of R2. The switch should then provide absolute authority over the motor. If it does not, T2 has probably failed (shorted). A second explanation (if the transistor is not shorted) is that base drive is getting to the transistor some other way.

The lower part of the circuit looks like a speed control, designed to reduce the base drive to T2, however I think there may be some errors in what you have drawn.

Measure the voltage at the junction of R1 and R2 with the switch open, and with both R2 connected and disconnected (you may want to take the first measurement before you disconnect it for the test I mentioned above.

Also, a photo of both sides of this board would be very helpful. We need enough detail to see all the components and their markings. Take the photos directly above and below the board (i.e. not at an angle) to ensure that the focus is sharp over the complete board.
 
What steve says.
I also believe using ordinary bipolar transistors (as drawn in the diagram) is correct, just try to swap the base & the collector around on T1. That should make it regulate.
 
Here is a link to the pictures via PhotoBucket:

http://s994.photobucket.com/albums/af68/TBennettcc/Welder Circuit Board/

I will have to get to the tests tomorrow, as I will need to get an NPN transistor...

I'll probably be driving to the Shack... should I get anything specific? I'm assuming that since the main fuse is rated at 1.6 amps, that would be the max for any components on the board as well, including the transistors?

And let me say now, if you can decipher a schematic from pictures, you have my respect! It took me a long time, many pieces of paper, balled up and scratched out, many flips of the board, usually with one finger on each side trying to figure out if the component I thought I was touching was really the one I was touching.

Again, thank you so much for your time.
 
Update:

I replaced the LM7812C with a proper TO-220 NPN transistor (MJE3055T, part number 276-2020 from RadioShack (they call it a TIP3055)). The trigger now works as it's supposed to.

I replaced the MPF 102 with a proper TO-92 NPN transistor (MPS2222A, part number 276-2009 from RadioShack). I also switched the base and the collector around, as suggested by Resqueline. The wire feed speed now appears to work correctly. I'll have to run some wire and test what the wire feed speed is in inches per minute.

I am uploading an updated schematic, in case anyone else happens to come across a Craftsman 20676 / Century 90GL Model 117-086 / 83095 / 83096 / P3095.

(I switched which transistors were T1 and T2, just because it made sense to me and made me feel better.)

Thank you both so much for your help.

If I could ask one more thing, if it wouldn't be too much trouble,,,

How does the bottom half of the circuit work?
 

Attachments

  • Craftsman Welder Circuit Board, Take 2.pdf
    15.7 KB · Views: 525

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
R4/R5, R9, and R8 form a potential divider.

When the voltage at the top of R8 exceeds about 1.4 volts (The forward drop of D4 plus Vbe for T2) then T2 will start to turn on, robbing base drive from T1. This reduces the voltage at the top of R4/R5.

In essence the pot (R9) is a voltage control for the motor. This almost certainly translates as a speed control.
 
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