Looking for a DC power regulator... preferably "off the shelf".

[!Jones]

Well, this group has lots of postings; however, they're mostly
mindless noise... I'll give it a try.

I have 12 V DC input; I need both 6V and a 24V outputs where the 24V
output may pull as high as 5A.

Dimension Engineering markets a product called "AnyVolt 3"
(http://www.dimensionengineering.com/anyvolt3.htm); however, it's
limited to 3A input current... I guess that's where it gets the "3" in
its name. Other than that, it's perfect. It's the right size and
(IMO) kinda sexy looking... not that that's a criteria, mind you.

Yeah, I could build one, I suppose... I'd prefer simply to buy one if
I can. Any ideas???

Jones

 

[Josepi]

Is this from a 12V automotive battery, solar panel fed?


Well, this group has lots of postings; however, they're mostly
mindless noise... I'll give it a try.

I have 12 V DC input; I need both 6V and a 24V outputs where the 24V
output may pull as high as 5A.

Dimension Engineering markets a product called "AnyVolt 3"
(http://www.dimensionengineering.com/anyvolt3.htm); however, it's
limited to 3A input current... I guess that's where it gets the "3" in
its name. Other than that, it's perfect. It's the right size and
(IMO) kinda sexy looking... not that that's a criteria, mind you.

Yeah, I could build one, I suppose... I'd prefer simply to buy one if
I can. Any ideas???

Jones

 

[!Jones]

Is this from a 12V automotive battery, solar panel fed?

Optima, 48 A/hr... what difference does it make? It's 12V input to
the device.

It's kinda like an auto battery, I suppose; it's a deep cycle, sealed
power source. I think that the only difference is in their spike
output for engine starting; but I don't need that. The amperage
in/out is steady.

 

[!Jones]

On Sat, 08 Jan 2011 14:47:02 -0500, in alt.engineering.electrical

Look at switching power supplies. That is what you are talking about,
not regulators.

OK:

<Quote>
A switched-mode power supply (switching-mode power supply, SMPS, or
switching power supply) is an electronic power supply that
incorporates a switched regulator in order to be highly efficient in
the conversion of electrical power.
</Quote> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply, Jan,
2011

That sounds like a regulator to me, but I'm not looking for a
terminology argument.

I have a deep-cycle, 48 A/hr power source. My output device wants 24V
@ 5A and needs to stay alive for three hours for a life support system
(not a human one; I'm capturing aliens.) The battery should give me
that. I also need some six-volt output at a minimal current... 0.1A
or so.

Yeah, I know what they're called and I can build one just fine, I'll
get the 6V with a resistor, no problema. Can I just buy one? I have
lots of money from my NASA grant.

Jones

 

[G. Morgan]

I have a deep-cycle, 48 A/hr power source. My output device wants 24V
@ 5A and needs to stay alive for three hours for a life support system
(not a human one; I'm capturing aliens.) The battery should give me
that. I also need some six-volt output at a minimal current... 0.1A
or so.

24V @ 5A is 120 watts, so you'll need a little more than 10 AH/HR
plus a 20% fudge-factor would be 12 Ah/Hr. So if you have a 48 AH
power source, that would easily get you 3 hours of operation. It
should last 4 hours safely.


This looks good:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=102-1896-ND

But it needs a 18-75V input. You'll need to drag another 6V with
you and put them in series (your 12V, and the new 6V). You can
also grab your 6V across the new battery for your other circuit.

 

[!Jones]

To increase voltage you need to transform it. A transformer works with
AC. Your input is DC. You'll need a switcher. Then if the accuracy of
the voltage output is important then you'll need a regulator.

OK, OK... Dimension Engineering calls theirs a "switching regulator"
and that's what I said I needed.
(http://www.dimensionengineering.com/anyvolt3.htm)
Theirs maxes at 3 amps and I need five amps. I don't care what you
call it; does anyone know where to get one, offhand?

Not every thing is answerable with a quote from Wikipedia.

I have *long* believed that Wikipedia was misused. It's main problem
is that it's secondary source material; however, it's usually fairly
accurate... where "fairly" is relative.

Jones

 

[!Jones]

This looks good:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=102-1896-ND

Yes, that does look nice... I'm all into heat synchs; they turn me
on!!!

But it needs a 18-75V input.

Oops! 'Minds me of the time I jumped off the barn with a bead sheet
parachute - it worked 'till I hit the ground. I don't have room for
any more battery, I'm afraid.

Maybe I'll Google that manufacturer and see what else they got...
yeah, that looks promising! The outfit is "V-Infinity" and they have
lots of 'em.

Jones

 

[!Jones]

Maybe I'll Google that manufacturer and see what else they got...
yeah, that looks promising! The outfit is "V-Infinity" and they have
lots of 'em.

Oh, yeah... there he is! Thanks for the pointer!
http://products.cui.com/adtemplate_...atky=328060&subcatky1=273602&subcatky2=530574

24V and 156W... that's a tad better'n 5A, I think.

I wonder how much one costs? (I haven't actually caught any aliens,
yet.)

In general, how efficient are these devices? I mean, if it were
perfectly efficient, it wouldn't need a heat synch, right? (RTFM,
Jones!) The datasheet says 86.5% under full load... jeepers! That's
a little over 24.3W lost to heat. I wager he'll *need* that synch!

Are they more efficient under a lesser load? In general, I mean

Jones

 

[Andrew Gabriel]

Oh, yeah... there he is! Thanks for the pointer!
http://products.cui.com/adtemplate_...atky=328060&subcatky1=273602&subcatky2=530574

24V and 156W... that's a tad better'n 5A, I think.

I wonder how much one costs? (I haven't actually caught any aliens,
yet.)

In general, how efficient are these devices? I mean, if it were
perfectly efficient, it wouldn't need a heat synch, right? (RTFM,
Jones!) The datasheet says 86.5% under full load... jeepers! That's

That's pretty good for a switched mode PSU.
Anything much higher is going to be a specialist product with
a premium price tag. Note that's at 24V input; at 12V input I
would guess the efficiency will be lower because of increased
I\262R losses on the input side.

This unit has output isolated from input, which is a feature
you will be paying for in the price. Do you need this?
If not, a boost type DC converter is likely to be cheaper if
you can find a suitable one. One place to look would be a
truckers suppliers - many trucks run on 24V, and they sometimes
want to run 24V truck equipment in a 12V vehicle (although it's
more common the other way around).

Similarly, a buck type DC converter for the 6V. If you could
manage with 5V@1A, pick up a cigarette lighter USB power
adapter, which can be found very cheaply. Alternatively, find
a cigarette lighter PSU with switched output voltage - I've
seen these with over 2A outputs, and they're also buck type
DC switching converters.

 

[!Jones]

On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 08:44:14 +0000 (UTC), in alt.engineering.electrical

That's pretty good for a switched mode PSU.
Anything much higher is going to be a specialist product with
a premium price tag. Note that's at 24V input; at 12V input I
would guess the efficiency will be lower because of increased
I\262R losses on the input side.

This unit has output isolated from input, which is a feature
you will be paying for in the price. Do you need this?
If not, a boost type DC converter is likely to be cheaper if
you can find a suitable one. One place to look would be a
truckers suppliers - many trucks run on 24V, and they sometimes
want to run 24V truck equipment in a 12V vehicle (although it's
more common the other way around).

Similarly, a buck type DC converter for the 6V. If you could
manage with 5V@1A, pick up a cigarette lighter USB power
adapter, which can be found very cheaply. Alternatively, find
a cigarette lighter PSU with switched output voltage - I've
seen these with over 2A outputs, and they're also buck type
DC switching converters.

OK, yer readin' me mind, chum... what, exactly, do they mean by
"isolated output"? Basically, I'm running a ~5 amp heating element
that won't be particularly sensitive to its input; it's 24V nominally,
but it'll do fine at 23 or 25, I'm sure... it won't burst into flames,
anyway.

Trucker's suppliers, huh? That's a big 10-4, good buddy!!!

Jones

 

[Adrian C]

OK, yer readin' me mind, chum... what, exactly, do they mean by
"isolated output"? Basically, I'm running a ~5 amp heating element
that won't be particularly sensitive to its input; it's 24V nominally,
but it'll do fine at 23 or 25, I'm sure... it won't burst into flames,
anyway.

Can't the heating element be rewired/converted to run on 12V? Somehow
split the element down the middle and run both sections in parallel?

 

[!Jones]

Can't the heating element be rewired/converted to run on 12V? Somehow
split the element down the middle and run both sections in parallel?

Probably; however, I think I'll try to boost the voltage first and
consider that as a fall-back... it's certainly a thought.

Jones - who says: Why do it the easy, obvious way when, with a little
imagination, I can make it *much* more difficult?

 

[Adrian C]

Probably; however, I think I'll try to boost the voltage first and
consider that as a fall-back... it's certainly a thought.

Jones - who says: Why do it the easy, obvious way when, with a little
imagination, I can make it *much* more difficult?

 

[!Jones]

DON'T QUIT YOUR DAY JOBS...
MR. CO JONES YOU ARE NO JUDGE OF CHARACTER.
IF YOU ARE FUNDED BY NASA WHY ARE YOU PUSSY FOOTING IN USENET?
GO TO A DC POWER SUPPLY MANUFACTURER AND THEY WILL DESIGN ONE WITH THE
EXACT SPECIFIED OUTPUT FOR YOUR NEEDS.
TROLL, OTHERWISE YOU WILL HAVE TO DESIGN A DEVICE THAT SPLITS THAT
CRAP YOU HAVE TO STEP UP TO 24V AND DOWN TO 6V SIMULTANEOUSLY.
GET ONE MADE TO SPECS AND STOP TROLLING THIS GROUP FOR A FAST
BREAK.

PATECUM

Are you the one posting all of that "Hot Porn" stuff?

Jones