Line 6 X2 XT-1 digital wireless transmitter

[cybergreen]

hi there. I'm trying to save the above. I've searched quite a bit but have found no schematics for the device anywhere, and as it's long out of warranty, the company does not want to provide any information or help (they want me to mail it to them and pay $90/hr+ parts). It seemed to work at first, but the input jack was damaged and needed to be replaced. while trying to do this, the trace to the first component was damaged, so I tried to wire it point-to-point, but I think that it got fried in the process (no burning smell, though.) I believe it is a capacitor, but it is completely unlabeled. I have tried substituting various capacitors, but they all seem to have little effect. The result is that the transmitter works, but only allows signals to pass through if they are particularly loud. Quieter input gets cut off. Thoughts?

 

[davenn]

Hi
welcome to the forums

the cap looks OK ... a capacitance meter would confirm that

if ya wanna do repairs, you need the right tools, why do you think service centres charge so much ?. Ohhhh where I work they charge $120 an hour for my service time

do you have a digital multimeter ? many of them these days have inductance and capacitance measuring capabilities

cheers
Dave

 

[cybergreen]

Thanks, davenn. Unfortunately, my meter has no capacitance measuring capabilities. I am pretty sure it's fried, though, as when it is in the circuit, nothing gets through. Just wish I could find out what it's supposed to be. Definitely not worth spending much money on, though.

 

[davenn]

what did you expect to get through it ?
caps DONT pass DC current

put your multimeter into Ohms range, touch each side of the cap with the probes
you should get zero resistance -- aka open circuit and its most likely OK
if you get any resistance, THEN it probably is faulty

Dave

 

[(*steve*)]

you should get zero resistance

I think Dave means, "no reading" (OL on the display typically)

 

[cybergreen]

So, I should be getting open loop with a good cap? That's what I get with the original part, but not what I get with brand new caps. By "nothing gets through" I meant the audio signal from the device, not the specific cap, if that makes any sense.

 

[davenn]

So, I should be getting open loop with a good cap? That's what I get with the original part, but not what I get with brand new caps. By "nothing gets through" I meant the audio signal from the device, not the specific cap, if that makes any sense.

yup thanks Steve ... slip of the tongue ( keyboard) haha Pleased I qualified it with the " aka open circuit "

yes you will get an open cct test on a capacitor
you will see a variation for electrolytic caps, You will see the meter display/needle change as the capacitor charges up. You don't see that on very small value caps like the one you have shown

an audio signal is AC not DC and because its cycling it gives the appearance that current is passing through the capacitor because each plate of capacitor is alternately cycling between charged and discharged

Dave

 

[HellasTechn]

Since wifi frequencys are high i would recommend you to try a small value capacitor (not electrolytic) say a 0.1 uf

But that i a guessing. Can youidentify the part that the capacitor needs to be placed ?

PS. theese type of materials are called (SMT) Surface MounT.

 

[HellasTechn]

what did you expect to get through it ?
caps DONT pass DC current

put your multimeter into Ohms range, touch each side of the cap with the probes
you should get zero resistance -- aka open circuit and its most likely OK
if you get any resistance, THEN it probably is faulty

Dave

One other way to test the cap is to set your multimeter to beeper and touch the probes on the caps poles. you sould get a brief beep and then silence. (that beep will last as long as the cap needs to charge) (second or less).