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No need, replace the faulty discrete component.
If you must for some reason, make your own, then you must first determine how the LEDs are arranged in a series and/or parallel arrangement, the target wattage, and then the voltage and current regulation to get there.
Is it really worth the work? Bluejets already mentioned this. I think it is very unlikely worth the bother. Building your own PSU for this is likely to cost more than an entire replacement tube, without counting the value of your time, unless as mentioned already, you instead just find and replace the failed component and hopefully determine why it failed and do an upgrade to increase the lifespan of it.
From the insufficient info you have provided, merely stating "blow up", it might not even be the driver that is at fault, could be a PCB crack or if all LEDs are in series and none light up, a solder joint or LED bond wire fault.
You have not done the necessary work to better describe this circuit.
If you must for some reason, make your own, then you must first determine how the LEDs are arranged in a series and/or parallel arrangement, the target wattage, and then the voltage and current regulation to get there.
Is it really worth the work? Bluejets already mentioned this. I think it is very unlikely worth the bother. Building your own PSU for this is likely to cost more than an entire replacement tube, without counting the value of your time, unless as mentioned already, you instead just find and replace the failed component and hopefully determine why it failed and do an upgrade to increase the lifespan of it.
From the insufficient info you have provided, merely stating "blow up", it might not even be the driver that is at fault, could be a PCB crack or if all LEDs are in series and none light up, a solder joint or LED bond wire fault.
You have not done the necessary work to better describe this circuit.
I strongly discourage use f that technique. The presumably low voltage 24 V LED side is directly coupled to mains. This is potentially lethal.
Since the LEDs are current limited by a resistor, you can use any 24 V DC power supply as long as the output current suffices to power all 72 LEDs.
Simple: may work. Depending on how sensitive you are you may notice flicker of the LEDs.
improved: A capacitor will reduce flicker significantly.
with additional filter and control. not only will the transistor further reduce flicker, the potentiometer will also allow setting the brightness of the LEDs within a certain range.
You can also simpyl buy a 24 V wall wart, just note the power rating (or equivalently the current rating) which must match or exceed the power drawn by the LEDs.
Since the LEDs are current limited by a resistor, you can use any 24 V DC power supply as long as the output current suffices to power all 72 LEDs.
Depends on your skills. A simple transformer plus rectifier may suffice. You already have a good starting point which can be used to create supplies with varying degrees of quality:
Simple: may work. Depending on how sensitive you are you may notice flicker of the LEDs.
improved: A capacitor will reduce flicker significantly.
with additional filter and control. not only will the transistor further reduce flicker, the potentiometer will also allow setting the brightness of the LEDs within a certain range.
You can also simpyl buy a 24 V wall wart, just note the power rating (or equivalently the current rating) which must match or exceed the power drawn by the LEDs.
