Help with Sony slv-n750

[Andy-]

Surprisingly great deck - it died suddenly when turned on. The fuse is OK. Looking at the PCB from the front, there a charred area about 3 inches to the left of the AC conn around a group of diodes.

Also - how do I get the tape out without power? I removed the front panel and 2 screws for the deck mount - can't see where it's still attached. Of course I don't want to force the transport.

 

[dorke]

Welcome to EP.
A clear photo will help.
Don't force anything!

 

[Andy-]

Welcome to EP.
A clear photo will help.
Don't force anything!

OK, lemme try these... The charred area is just left of the fuse.

Trapped tape, front is at top.


This help?????

 

[dorke]

The photos aren't clear enough.

As for removing the tape.
You should try turning the gear manually.

 

[Andy-]

The photos aren't clear enough.

As for removing the tape.
You should try turning the gear manually.

Already tried that. It's so stiff it feels like it will break before it budges.
Would closer images of the charred area help or something else?

 

[dorke]

Yes,
Hold the cassette door up ,and turn the white spiral gear (multi turns) till the cassette comes out slowly.
At some point you may need to release the tape itself from the "posts".
Both are red arrows below.

 

[Andy-]

Well, I got the tape out once I turned the gear the right way! None of the newer pictures is any sharper. I'll have to dig out the camera for a better shot if that helps.

Do you know of a newer model of this same deck that is as reliable, cheap and terrific? It has to have RCA output.

 

[73's de Edd]

.


Sir Andy. . . . . . .

I certainly believe that the reason for your units failure is a gradual / progressive degradation of the capacitance of several of the electrolytic capacitors in that units switch mode power
supply that runs front to back on the right top side of the unit.
Basically it goes from the part where you see the clip in fuse starting and then towards the front of the unit.
That path to the left at the top of the power supply is feeding a good amount of the power supply capacity thru some diodes-resistors for feeding . . . . .constantly running . . . .capstan and head drive motors.
With developed hi frequency ripple from the power supply, they WILL heat up greater than is the norm . . .thus . . . . you see that warmed up area.
There also happens to be two small electrolytics nearby . . .to the left away from that heated area, that are also probably questionable.
You might get lucky and physically see the very tops of my mentioned caps having a doming of their tops from accumulative internal vapor pressure .
If extremely lucky, you might see a split in the purposefully embossed "rupture " X crosses. Those definitely CONFIRM bad capacitors, without even the use of any instrumentation.
Was your fuse blown . . . . ..
Replacing all of those caps with high temp 105 degree rated units should get all well again.

Thaasssssit . . . . .

73's de Edd


.

 

[dorke]

Well, I got the tape out once I turned the gear the right way! None of the newer pictures is any sharper. I'll have to dig out the camera for a better shot if that helps.

Do you know of a newer model of this same deck that is as reliable, cheap and terrific? It has to have RCA output.

The VCRs are obsolete tech, I think no body makes them for at least 10 years .
Hard to recommend one,you can probably buy them for next to nothing 2nd hand.
The biggest problems are belt failure(they are hard to find).
The big names were JVC,Sony and Toshiba