Help a noob repair a flat cable in a Dualshock 2

[zacchi4k]

I've got a Dualshock 2 where the flat cable going to the analog sticks PCB has ripped from it.
I've cut the broken part and tried fixing it, but I couldn't manage to.
Melting the plastics to get to the "wire" causes is to melt too, and also dropping some solder into the "wire" also melts it too
Is there a way to repair this?

 

[davenn]

Hi there
welcome

I've got a Dualshock 2 where the flat cable going to the analog sticks PCB has ripped from it.
I've cut the broken part and tried fixing it, but I couldn't manage to.
Melting the plastics to get to the "wire" causes is to melt too, and also dropping some solder into the "wire" also melts it too
Is there a way to repair this?

not likely to be repairable, as you discovered, you cannot solder to it

the manufacturer or their repair agent may be able to help with a replacement membrane


Dave

 

[73's de Edd]

Mamma mia ! you-sa gots a problem . . . . with that flexible carbon deposition cable.
Looks like the only way out is :

https://www.google.com/#q=PCB+Ribbon+Circuit+Board+Type+SA1Q107A+/+B+for+PS2


73s de Edd

 

[zacchi4k]

not likely to be repairable, as you discovered, you cannot solder to it

the manufacturer or their repair agent may be able to help with a replacement membrane

Mamma mia ! you-sa gots a problem . . . . with that flexible carbon deposition cable.
Looks like the only way out is :

https://www.google.com/#q=PCB+Ribbon+Circuit+Board+Type+SA1Q107A+/+B+for+PS2

Hi,
Thank you both!
If I get a replacement membrane, how can I "attach" it to the PCB?

 

[davenn]

Hi,
Thank you both!
If I get a replacement membrane, how can I "attach" it to the PCB?

from one of the sellers .....

Caution! This is for the Dualshock 2 ONLY!

Descriptions:
Replacement PS2 controller Button Ribbon circuit board for Dual Shock 2.
Model : SA1Q107A/B

Important!
Please confirm this item is the right model you need before placing order. Most repair parts is only suitable for special model. This item comes with No Manual , No Instruction Guide, No Video Guide. Professional installation skill is needed. To guarantee all replacement parts is in good condition, we had tested it before shipping.We do not hold any responsibility for damaging of this item cause by your wrong installation or your wrong purchasing.

Package Includes:
1 x Controller Ribbon Circuit Board

can you call yourself a professional electronics tech ? or even semi pro ?

if not, then you need to find a place that can do this for you


Dave

 

[zacchi4k]

from one of the sellers .....

I don't understand...

can you call yourself a professional electronics tech ? or even semi pro ?

if not, then you need to find a place that can do this for you.

Well... no. I just have some skills using the soldering iron.
But I want to experience.

 

[73's de Edd]

YOUR unit is very distinct on the connecting assembly, as the others use side by side contacts and a plug in connector.
YOUR unit uses 18 STAGGERED gold flashed contacts ? confirm the gold ? and a compressive connector.
I will prep you up a procedure tomorrrow, and you then see if you are capable.

 

[zacchi4k]

YOUR unit is very distinct on the connecting assembly, as the others use side by side contacts and a plug in connector.
YOUR unit uses 18 STAGGERED gold flashed contacts ? confirm the gold ? and a compressive connector.
I will prep you up a procedure tomorrrow, and you then see if you are capable.

Well, I seem to remember that when the cable ripped there was some black stuff that fit perfectly on the contacts, but since I originally planned to repair the flat cable with wires and solder wasn't sticking to them, I scraped it off. Now there's this yellow stuff (which at this point I think it's gold) where a bit of solder sticks to it (but enough to fix the wire in place).
There are 18 connectors which were just glued to the cable, no plugin connector.
I don't really know what do you mean by "compressive connector"

 

[zacchi4k]

It looks like this:

But, again, without the black thing on the contacts.

 

[davenn]

But, again, without the black thing on the contacts.

so you have damaged the board as well by ripping off the black connection points

time to buy a new controller

 

[zacchi4k]

so you have damaged the board as well by ripping off the black connection points

time to buy a new controller

...isn't it still conductive? Please?

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir zacchi4k . . . . .

On your unit, it was initially using interleaved gold flashed contacts on the PC board where you will notice the interlacing of long and short contacts from one side to the other.
On the updated version of the PC board, they are now using fused on glazed carbon contacts for the 18 PCB connections.
As per my reference to " compressive contacts " they are not soldering the flexible cable to the PCB contact pads nor are they using any adhesive . . . electrical connection is solely being maintained by merely keeping the two parts contact areas being FIRMLY pressed together.
Refer to my first drawing at the left and you will see the bottom cover clamshell and there is a yellow rectangle
drawn in, that will be the compressing item, be it either by a springy pressure plate or a cushiony rubber pad or a combination of both.
On its examination, you can further expound of its construction mode to us.
When you place the flexible connector assembly over the white studs, which I have marked with YELLOW circles, and then when you reassemble the bottom clamshell onto the unit, the developed compressing effect upon the flexible cable and the contact pads on the PCB should then maintain a good electrical connection pressure between the two.

ILLUSTRATION OF FLEXI-CABLE TO PCB CONTACT INTERFACING INSTALLATION:

ILLUSTRATION OF CORRECTIVE REPAIR PROCEDURE :

If you have a 40-60 watt soldering iron, 60/40 rosin core solder, liquid rosin flux, coax cable to salvage
braid from or wide SOLDERWICK, PLUS soldering expertise you just might save that unit with the new
staggered contacts flexicable and pad assenbly previously being referenced to .
If so, reply for my further explanaton of . . . . .the 2nd how to do it to it . . . . . illustration.


73 s de Edd

 

[zacchi4k]

Sir zacchi4k . . . . .

On your unit, it was initially using interleaved gold flashed contacts on the PC board where you will notice the interlacing of long and short contacts from one side to the other.
On the updated version of the PC board, they are now using fused on glazed carbon contacts for the 18 PCB connections.
As per my reference to " compressive contacts " they are not soldering the flexible cable to the PCB contact pads nor are they using any adhesive . . . electrical connection is solely being maintained by merely keeping the two parts contact areas being FIRMLY pressed together.
Refer to my first drawing at the left and you will see the bottom cover clamshell and there is a yellow rectangle
drawn in, that will be the compressing item, be it either by a springy pressure plate or a cushiony rubber pad or a combination of both.
On its examination, you can further expound of its construction mode to us.
When you place the flexible connector assembly over the white studs, which I have marked with YELLOW circles, and then when you reassemble the bottom clamshell onto the unit, the developed compressing effect upon the flexible cable and the contact pads on the PCB should then maintain a good electrical connection pressure between the two.

ILLUSTRATION OF FLEXI-CABLE TO PCB CONTACT INTERFACING INSTALLATION:

ILLUSTRATION OF CORRECTIVE REPAIR PROCEDURE :

If you have a 40-60 watt soldering iron, 60/40 rosin core solder, liquid rosin flux, coax cable to salvage
braid from or wide SOLDERWICK, PLUS soldering expertise you just might save that unit with the new
staggered contacts flexicable and pad assenbly previously being referenced to .
If so, reply for my further explanaton of . . . . .the 2nd how to do it to it . . . . . illustration.


73 s de Edd

Uhm.... yeah, I guess I could try.
Could you also please tell me how wide should the solder wick be?

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir zacchi4k . . . . .

Could you also please tell me how wide should the solder wick be?

To be most effective, a minimal 3 mm on up to a max 5 mm would be within the properer width possibilities.
The (shift into 72 font type) REAL (shift out of 72 font type) secret of optimal Soderwick effectiveness, is the LIBERAL additional use of some liquid rosin solder flux for wetting.
THEN a good flux clean up from the board, after the retinning operation.

You submitted two photos of those PCB tinned connections and the first one was a mess, but on this one, you have cleaned it up quite well . . .I commend you ! . . . on the improvement.
The present condition of the solder tinnings on the boards traces tinnings are still quite rough.
If a gnat (moscerino) was on your board, the solder surfaces would look like a rough cobblestone road.
The tinnings need to be evened / flattened and have the appearance of a fine tin plating.
The only connection that seems to be needing a rebuild is your end connection near my #1 number assignment, which I have overdrawn in PINK.

Lets see how good of a shape the board can be reworked into, on all of its 18 fingers before ordering the flexi-cable assembly.

Return when you have the rework materiel on hand.

73 s de Edd