Hand reworking SMT mictors?

[[email protected]]

Hi,
This might be a bit out of place in a design group, so apologies in
advance. This just seems the best place to ask a practical question.

I'd like to replace Samtec QTE connectors manually on a populated
board.

http://www.samtec.com/ftppub/cpdf/QTE-XXX-XX-X-D-XXX-MKT.pdf

The specifics are not important. The general problem is that there is a
long ground pin under the part which needs a solid connection. None of
the rework places want to touch this because I'd need at least a custom
stencil for this. The ground lead must be soldered properly.

I tried approaching solid solder deposit people but they won't touch a
populated board. I tried the polyimide microstencil folks but the
thickness of the stencil means the connector won't seat properly. I
tried convincing the rework people to pop the ground lead out a bit
with a small screwdriver and solder the pin by hand then mash the
connector housing back together later. But "pop" and "mash" are not
accepted terms in this industry, it seems.

I will write-off the boards if I can't replace the connectors but maybe
someone out here has a great idea??

 

[Nico Coesel]

Hi,
This might be a bit out of place in a design group, so apologies in
advance. This just seems the best place to ask a practical question.

I'd like to replace Samtec QTE connectors manually on a populated
board.

http://www.samtec.com/ftppub/cpdf/QTE-XXX-XX-X-D-XXX-MKT.pdf

The specifics are not important. The general problem is that there is a
long ground pin under the part which needs a solid connection. None of
the rework places want to touch this because I'd need at least a custom
stencil for this. The ground lead must be soldered properly.

I tried approaching solid solder deposit people but they won't touch a
populated board. I tried the polyimide microstencil folks but the
thickness of the stencil means the connector won't seat properly. I
tried convincing the rework people to pop the ground lead out a bit
with a small screwdriver and solder the pin by hand then mash the
connector housing back together later. But "pop" and "mash" are not
accepted terms in this industry, it seems.

I will write-off the boards if I can't replace the connectors but maybe
someone out here has a great idea??

Heat the board gently with a paint stripper (aka heat gun) to remove
the connector, clean the pads using desoldering braid. Apply some
solder to the centre pad (not too much) and some solder flux and
re-heat the board using the paint stripper. Just be carefull not to
over heat (burn) the board. After this, the pins of the connector can
be soldered. I've used this procedure before on devices which hidden
pads.

 

[[email protected]]

Heat the board gently with a paint stripper (aka heat gun) to remove
the connector, clean the pads using desoldering braid. Apply some
solder to the centre pad (not too much) and some solder flux and
re-heat the board using the paint stripper. Just be carefull not to
over heat (burn) the board. After this, the pins of the connector can
be soldered. I've used this procedure before on devices which hidden
pads.

Thanks but I'm afraid the connector will start to melt! I've tried
something like that before but this time it's for work not hobby so I
don't want to do it myself, I'd rather give it to a professional.

 

[linnix]

You have to destroy the old connector, in order to save the board.
usually, it's one or the other.

Do this with the right tool, a SMT rework station. You have to direct
the hot air under the connector.

Thanks but I'm afraid the connector will start to melt! I've tried
something like that before but this time it's for work not hobby so I
don't want to do it myself, I'd rather give it to a professional.

The connector might turn a little brown, but it won't melt. I can try
if you send me the board and new connectors.

 

[Ben Jackson]

I'd like to replace Samtec QTE connectors manually on a populated
board.

The specifics are not important. The general problem is that there is a
long ground pin under the part which needs a solid connection.

The place where I work had some of those added by hand (not removed, but
I'm sure hot air and a willingness to throw away the old will solve
that). As I recall the secret was that the connector could be disassembled
and the center part soldered first. Then you could build the rest of
the connector onto it and do the signal pins.

 

[Nico Coesel]

Thanks but I'm afraid the connector will start to melt! I've tried
something like that before but this time it's for work not hobby so I
don't want to do it myself, I'd rather give it to a professional.

I doubt the connector will melt. It has already been through an oven!