Good way to go? Fisher G3M45250

[glasnostJDC]

Hello, I just want to check my line of logic on working with this set, its
my first time with its type of problem (most have been in the SMPS). The
problem is the green is too strong, blue and red look fine, on a test
pattern there is bleeding. So this is how I've started, found a moderate
amount of dust all over (compared to PC's I've worked on ;-)) I discharged
the TV and then cleaned off all the dust. 2nd I checked and resoldered
solder joints on the main board and then the neck board. Problem still
present, went to sams repairfaq.org site and got the color balance
adjustment guide line, which is what I'm doing next, after that ( if I still
have the problem) I want to see if the problem is on the neck board or the
main board. This is what I'm thinking of doing, I'm thinking of switching
the red and green inputs on the neckboard. If it's still green its the main
board, if its red its the neck board (I'm not positive about this so that's
why I'm checking). I'm pretty sure from there its just a matter of time to
track down the component. Does this sound like the right way to go, I feel
it is but want to make sure. Thanks for all of your help.

Fisher/Sanyo:
Chassis: G3M45250 (also G4L46200 is suppose to be similar)
Model: PC4525 (also used in PC4520)

 

[David]

Actually you would be better off swapping the green and red going into the
crt. Odds are from that symptom that the failure is the picture tube. Once
the tube is ruled out, then move to troubleshooting the circuitry.

David

 

[glasnostJDC]

Thanks, I just checked and it is the tube :-(. I do have a cap to
charge up to try and blow out the short but I was woundering what is the
best way to charge the cap? I have no high voltage power supplys, I have a
idea but would like a suggestion on the best way to build a quick one or the
best source to use (example, a source in the TV). Thanks David for your
help,

-glasnostJDC