Good rosin flux paste brands?

[electronics360]

I want to buy some rosin flux paste, and I was wondering what are some brands that you guys prefer (or maybe they're all just the same)?

thanks

 

[kellys_eye]

In electronics, the syringe-dispensed flux is the best option. Simple IPA (isopropylalcohol) works - often goes under the name 'no residue (clean) flux' - but for something 'stronger' an RMA version (mildly activated) is good.

I've had good results with flux pens too. As for brands - I've never bothered by brand name (a pair of Levis is still just a pair of 'jeans') and never had any issues although I'm just an 'amateur' when it comes to such stuff and not producing commercially where it may actually be warranted.

 

[WHONOES]

Why do you want a paste. Are you planning to use it as a tip cleaner?

 

[timff]

The type of rosin depends on how much oxides are a problem for you in soldering. Plumbers sometimes use acid core flux to make good connections to solder copper pipe. For components with little oxide problem a no clean flux is acceptable. However sometimes terminals, lugs and even some wire can be difficult to wet with no clean solder and an RMA is needed.

 

[electronics360]

Why do you want a paste. Are you planning to use it as a tip cleaner?

It's what I'm used to, it's easy to apply a tiny amount with a toothpick where I want it.

 

[duke37]

I have a small 40 year old tin of Fluxite "The most effective flux known" which is very occasionaly used, mostly for copper pipe joins. The critical thing is to get the parts clean.

I recently bought a small jar of LA-CO regular soldering flux paste. This seems to be more effective than Fluxite. I have asked LA-CO whether this is suitable for electronic circuits but did not get a reply.

I have seen a tractor radiator being repaired using acid flux which appears to displace lots of corrosion. Obviously not suitable for electronics.

 

[WHONOES]

I generally use a rosin based flux suspended in alcohol. It is easy to apply with a small artists brush. I will never use an acid based flux on electrical connections particularly PCB's. If you don't completely remove it or neutralise it, it will nibble away at your components / connections. I only ever use acid based fluxes on ferrous materials which can be difficult (but not impossible) to solder otherwise.

 

[Michael Studio1]

I want to buy some rosin flux paste, and I was wondering what are some brands that you guys prefer (or maybe they're all just the same)?

thanks

I use 100g. yellow plastic pot of FRY POWERFLOW FLUX (IT SAYS IT'S THE IDEAL FOR LEAD-FREE SOLDER.
Fairly substantial squat pot - originally for plumbing . . . but what the? It works! Michael Studio1 UK 19:13BST

 

[HellasTechn]

Anny suggestions for smd soldering ? like the "no residue" style ?

The ones i bought on ebay do leave residue no matter if they claim not to.

 

[WHONOES]

I am retired now so haven't done any SMD for a while but I used to dab a pad (just one) with a drop of flux, tin the soldering iron and dab it in turn on the same pad. Now place the component on the pads and touch the tinned pad with you iron. For the other connection, a dab of flux then touch with the tinned iron. Result : perfect joints.

 

[Michael Studio1]

I am retired now so haven't done any SMD for a while but I used to dab a pad (just one) with a drop of flux, tin the soldering iron and dab it in turn on the same pad. Now place the component on the pads and touch the tinned pad with you iron. For the other connection, a dab of flux then touch with the tinned iron. Result : perfect joints.

Now you're talking about Liquid Flux? As used to reflow MoBo's? Michael Studio1 UK 21:10BST

 

[WHONOES]

Don't know about the brand you mention, but I just use a rosin flux suspended in alcohol if I need to flux a joint if the rosin cored solder is not up to the job. As I have said elsewhere I would never use an acid based flux on a pcb or any electrical joint for that matter.

 

[12vdc]

LA-CO

+1
also a bonus tip........ I use the tiny bit of paste to "tin" wires by dipping in the paste and heating one of many large globs of "real" solder found on old circuit boards and then rolling the wire. If doing many wires for rough projects it helps save the precious new solder ($$$)

 

[MacLover]

I personally use the CS-FLUX the last three years and I don't have any complain about the product.In the following link you can see all the details about the product.I personally found this video very helpful

 

[HellasTechn]

+1
also a bonus tip........ I use the tiny bit of paste to "tin" wires by dipping in the paste and heating one of many large globs of "real" solder found on old circuit boards and then rolling the wire. If doing many wires for rough projects it helps save the precious new solder ($$$)

As for solder... I hate using lead free solder. Joints tend to fail alot !

 

[Bluejets]

As for solder... I hate using lead free solder. Joints tend to fail alot !

Agree.....Read somewhere it is mostly for commercial operations anyhow.
Paste flux (if ever needed) I use simple elcheapo chinese and seems to work fine.
Ironically it is used when trying to remove components from the previous lead-free crap.

Using lead-free is a bit like using blue tip silver solder that does not contain cadmium.
Doesn't flow, rolls up in a ball and have to jab it in like a putty job.
Thankfully there is still a supplier of cadmium bearing material in Aus. all-be-it rather expensive.

Also for #4, plumbers use phos copper rod, no flux at all.