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Fronius acctiva flash 70A car battery charger

I get my hands on Fronius acctiva profesional flash 70A car battery charger.
They broke cable and connector, its 12 pin flat ribbon cable. Any help will be
good. For now i just want to find some 12pin connector to get that little lcd working
again, then try to find out why it doesent charge.

Thanks in advance

WhatsApp Image 2019-01-08 at 22_09_16 (1).jpg

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WhatsApp Image 2019-01-08 at 22_09_16.jpg

WhatsApp Image 2019-01-08 at 22_09_17.jpg

WhatsApp Image 2019-01-08 at 22_09_18.jpg

WhatsApp Image 2019-01-08 at 22_09_19.jpg

WhatsApp Image 2019-01-08 at 19_43_17 (2).jpg

WhatsApp Image 2019-01-08 at 19_43_17 (1).jpg

WhatsApp Image 2019-01-08 at 19_43_17.jpg




[Mod Note: Imaged cropped, resized and reorientated]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I think your looking for a FFC connector?
Measure the distance between the conductors to determine the pitch you need. Try google, mouser, digikey, ebay.. etcetera.

Hopefully you have excellent soldering skills and a steady hand.

Btw, Don't put circuit boards or anything static sensitive on carpet like in pic#5
 
Thanks for fast replay. I have one more question :).
Is there any way to know where is pin 1 and where is pin 12 on biger board? Cuz its riped off, if i reverse that flat cable,
probably bad things can happen :rolleyes:.
On little board with buttons there is mark pin one and pin 12 but on bigger there isnt.

Thanks for advice about static sensitivity, didnt know that.
 
IDK off hand. If you had some pieces of the old connector or the cable, it would give some evidence as to of how it went together.
If the cable has a red marking that is pin 1.
If the plastic receptacle has a beveled side, that should be pin 1.
If you don't have any pieces of the puzzle to figure it out, I'd look at the circuit closely to determine which pins cary the power rail and try to match both sides. In other words where + and - (ground) should go.
It's hard to tell from pictures you posted.
 
Screenshot_2019-01-11-01-03-16-1.png
Tiny smd capacitor in center of picture goes across the 5v power rail of Pin 17 Vcc (+) and pin 18 is Gnd. If you follow the traces back to cable pins you should know how it connects.
 
yes it is hard from the pictures i posted, its from my phone , pictures are wierd and blurry from it. Soon ill have my camera back
then i can use macro function so pictures will be better quality. As i try to trace pin 17 and 18, i noticed that both end pictures
that you magnify, pin 17 goes on cap and pin 8 goes on cap. Other side dont have nothing on that spot, guess multi layer pcb is
not so good when you have trace. But tomarow ill use DMM, diode sound test amd try to trace where it ends.

When i was inspecting i noticed one fried lead. But first is little LCD and controler, then other stuff that will be find in the proces. WhatsApp Image 2019-01-08 at 22.09.18 (2).jpg
 
I did found some info on how to connect that broken connector and where is 1st pin.
But i was wondering for what is that BVS R0003 for ? Is that regular resistor or some special one?
I also find some pictures of that resistor and was wandering, are they always connected that way?

I try to get it off with hot air, but it wont go down. I ready on documents max 350C and max 30 sec, or he will be ruined i guess.
can i wired it on top of him, its visable on pictures whats the problem with one fried line.
If the always connect like in the picture above.
Isabellenh%C3%BCtte%20BVS%20Series-1-1000x800.jpg



And the pictures from my board:

DbEPv9w.jpg

AllBfmK.jpg

r8EqoEv.jpg
 
Thats not pretty.
R0003 is a current sense resistor for regulation.
My guess it got hot from an upstream short and the smaller trace shorted to it and blew apart.
Due to its size you might be better off with a higher wattage iron than hot air.
 
It looks kinda bad, but i didnt remove flux before i toke picture, so it looks more messy then it realy is.
Could i kill it with hot air ?


And is is possible to repair that fried leads like i ilustrated on the picture below ?
b9eCYaJ.jpg


EDIT: RED LINE CONNECTION IS IN THE AIR NOT SOLDERED TO ALL COMPONENTS. just to clarify :D
 
Probably not. Those are pretty robust components, but be careful the transistor doesn't see too much heat.
I wouldn't even try removing it. it's probably fine. I'd cut off the trace with an exacto knife and just add a insulated jumper wire like you marked in red.
Then investigate the components attached to the melted trace. Surely something got cooked along its path. Cross your fingers that the processor didn't take a hit.
 
flat ribon cable will come in friday, then ill solder connector on board, solder jumper wire and put it togather. Ill post video when i turn it on.
 
I got my parts today...
here is the outcome.

4VI88cS.jpg


jLpqMgk.jpg


OLPxrid.jpg


uTSbHst.jpg


Osf6CGh.jpg



Tested on car:
Without ignition:
zm772yP.jpg


With ignition and only lights on.
QPLsr3j.jpg


With ignition and all possible accesories turned on:
6Q2LCQz.jpg


:) :D
 
special thanks to Tha fios agaibh, you were very helpfull with advice that you give me.

i charge my octavia and my yamaha so far it didnt get on fire haha
 
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