flush mount alarm panel enclosure

[wedge]

I'm installing my own security system in a new house DSC Power832 and I
would prefer to have my alarm panel and equipment mounted in a flush
mount enclosure. Most alarm kits come with surface mount enclosures
and I am having trouble finding any that are designed for in-wall
installation during rough-in. Are there sources for flush mount
enclosures or will I just have to adapt a structured wiring type
enclosure to do the job? Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

[G. Morgan]

I'm installing my own security system in a new house DSC Power832 and I
would prefer to have my alarm panel and equipment mounted in a flush
mount enclosure. Most alarm kits come with surface mount enclosures
and I am having trouble finding any that are designed for in-wall
installation during rough-in. Are there sources for flush mount
enclosures or will I just have to adapt a structured wiring type
enclosure to do the job? Thanks in advance for any feedback.

You could just screw the DSC can to a stud right now, leave it sticking
out about 3/4" to make room for the drywall.

However, a stuctured wiring enclosure would be ideal in a new home so
you can run all your computer networking wiring, CATV/SAT, phone and
security to one place.

 

[Crash Gordon]

| You could just screw the DSC can to a stud right now, leave it sticking
| out about 3/4" to make room for the drywall.
|
Yuck. Have you ever seen this look or work correctly? You have to leave more
sticking out than you think or the door won't open correctly. Then the wires
are hard to get into the box. To me it's not worth the time as it never
looks good, unless the panel comes with a flush mounting box I'd say forget
it...or:


| However, a stuctured wiring enclosure would be ideal in a new home so
| you can run all your computer networking wiring, CATV/SAT, phone and
| security to one place.
|
This would be better, but keeping other wires away from the alarm board
would be my concern.

 

[G. Morgan]

| You could just screw the DSC can to a stud right now, leave it sticking
| out about 3/4" to make room for the drywall.
|
Yuck. Have you ever seen this look or work correctly? You have to leave more
sticking out than you think or the door won't open correctly. Then the wires
are hard to get into the box. To me it's not worth the time as it never
looks good, unless the panel comes with a flush mounting box I'd say forget
it...or:

Heh.. not really ;-) The door never opens right, you have to take it
off to work on the panel. And you're right- it's not going to be
flush. It will save a little space in the closet, but not much.

| However, a stuctured wiring enclosure would be ideal in a new home so
| you can run all your computer networking wiring, CATV/SAT, phone and
| security to one place.
|
This would be better, but keeping other wires away from the alarm board
would be my concern.

The key there is to give each utility it's own space. If the CATV guy
gets there first it's going to look like hell from the get go.

The alarm wires should get it's own uniduct (with a jet line in it)
and board mounted in the enclosure away from the other stuff. I've
seen very big enclosures look like hell because no one managed the
space, that is to say each contractor did his own thing without regard
to the others. A DIY'er would have a handle on this hopefully.

 

[ABLE_1]

Ahhh?? You forgot to "tie a knot" in the AC wire at the terminals to stop
that lightning bolt in its tracks.

 

[Mark Leuck]

I have a friend with a 1555 mounted in a structured box like that and it
worked very well however I can't recall the name of the box at the moment

 

[Mark Leuck]

Ahhh?? You forgot to "tie a knot" in the AC wire at the terminals to stop
that lightning bolt in its tracks.

God I can't count how often people swear by that

 

[Group-Moderator]

I'm installing my own security system in a new house DSC Power832 and I
would prefer to have my alarm panel and equipment mounted in a flush
mount enclosure. Most alarm kits come with surface mount enclosures
and I am having trouble finding any that are designed for in-wall
installation during rough-in. Are there sources for flush mount
enclosures or will I just have to adapt a structured wiring type
enclosure to do the job? Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Look Here:
http://www.alarmsuperstore.com/mier/flushmt/flush.htm

 

[FIRETEK]

Just what we need. Another Bass.



{-snip-}

 

[FIRETEK]

Why go with a cabinet at all? Just put everything behind the drywall.

 

[Group-Moderator]

If you already have a DSC panel try looking at the ConcoursePRO Cabinet.
From the DSC web site as follows:
a.. Rigid construction, lockable white cabinets with bezel edges to
conceal drywall edges.
a.. Front loading and fully labeled for ease of cable management for both
the professional and the end user.
a.. 1375216-1
RCS36 36" x 14.25" x 6"
a.. 1375272-2
RCS36 Lockable Door
a.. 1375300-1
RCS14 14.25" x 14.25" x 4"
a.. 1479715-2
RCS14 Lockable Door

Hope this helps.

LOOK HERE:
http://www.alarmsuperstore.com/dsc/structcab/structcab.htm

 

[Crash Gordon]

We call it Smurf Tubing out this way...dunno why.

Cable guys are the biggest slobs...I leave a nice clean setup for them and
the screw it all up.


|
|
| On Nov 25, 9:49 am, "Crash Gordon" <[email protected]>
| wrote:
| > | You could just screw the DSC can to a stud right now, leave it
sticking
| > | out about 3/4" to make room for the drywall.
| > |
| > Yuck. Have you ever seen this look or work correctly? You have to leave
more
| > sticking out than you think or the door won't open correctly. Then the
wires
| > are hard to get into the box. To me it's not worth the time as it never
| > looks good, unless the panel comes with a flush mounting box I'd say
forget
| > it...or:
|
| Heh.. not really ;-) The door never opens right, you have to take it
| off to work on the panel. And you're right- it's not going to be
| flush. It will save a little space in the closet, but not much.
|
|
| >
| > | However, a stuctured wiring enclosure would be ideal in a new home so
| > | you can run all your computer networking wiring, CATV/SAT, phone and
| > | security to one place.
| > |
| > This would be better, but keeping other wires away from the alarm board
| > would be my concern.
|
| The key there is to give each utility it's own space. If the CATV guy
| gets there first it's going to look like hell from the get go.
|
| The alarm wires should get it's own uniduct (with a jet line in it)
| and board mounted in the enclosure away from the other stuff. I've
| seen very big enclosures look like hell because no one managed the
| space, that is to say each contractor did his own thing without regard
| to the others. A DIY'er would have a handle on this hopefully.
|

 

[ABLE_1]

Yes, it does boggle the mind.

God I can't count how often people swear by that

 

[Crash Gordon]

I prefer reverse polarity flux capacitAtors.


| Ahhh?? You forgot to "tie a knot" in the AC wire at the terminals to stop
| that lightning bolt in its tracks.
|
|
| >> Yuck. Have you ever seen this look or work correctly?
| > Sure I have! But you have to get the rest of the panel to look just
right
| > too. First strip off all of the outer jackets on all the wires to make
| > certain absloutely nothing has a label. Braid wires from one bundle to
| > another bundle at random. Then strip back the insulation off the first
| > 3"-6" so you can short any wire you want with any other wire. If it is
| > solid core wire nick the wire when you strip it, so it snaps the next
time
| > it is touched, or better that it snaps all by itself for a good source
of
| > service call billing in future. If it is stranded wire make sure only a
| > single strand out of the bundle is actually connected under the terminal
| > strip. Leave all the other strands free and frayed. Next run wires thru
| > the can that don't actually land there, putting 120VAC on a zip wire and
| > putting the transformer in there to warm things up helps. Make certain
| > there are several extra sets of pull wires in the can that go nowhere.
| > Have wires that are so tight you can play musical notes on them mixed
with
| > wires that fall out on the floor when the panel is open. Don't clean up
| > the area. Put all the pieces of wire and jacket etc. in the box just to
| > let someone know you've been there. Use bare 4 guage wire and ground the
| > panel to a gas pipe, and tie strap the wire to a fire sprinkler pipe
along
| > the way if you can. If that is not available just ground the panel with
| > the neutral from the 120VAC zip wire. Make sure that there is so much
crap
| > in the box it takes the weight of two guys pushing and a third guy with
a
| > screwdriver to close the box. Don't forget to staple all of the
| > instructions on the wall next to the panel, page by page, when complete.
| > Be proud of your work and take pictures to show your boss.
| >
| > | >>
| >> | You could just screw the DSC can to a stud right now, leave it
sticking
| >> | out about 3/4" to make room for the drywall.
| >> |
| >> Yuck. Have you ever seen this look or work correctly? You have to leave
| >> more
| >> sticking out than you think or the door won't open correctly. Then the
| >> wires
| >> are hard to get into the box. To me it's not worth the time as it never
| >> looks good, unless the panel comes with a flush mounting box I'd say
| >> forget
| >> it...or:
| >>
| >>
| >> | However, a stuctured wiring enclosure would be ideal in a new home so
| >> | you can run all your computer networking wiring, CATV/SAT, phone and
| >> | security to one place.
| >> |
| >> This would be better, but keeping other wires away from the alarm board
| >> would be my concern.
| >>
| >>
| >
| >
|
|

 

[Mark Leuck]

Just what we need. Another Bass.



{-snip-}

Don't mess with Mike, he'll make idle threats, call bad names and make web
pages about you

 

[FIRETEK]

Oh Great! Another Bass.

 

[Robert L Bass]

I have a friend with a 1555 mounted in

a structured box like that and it worked
very well however I can't recall the
name of the box at the moment

It's probably an OnQ box. He'll also need an OnQ mounting plate for DSC. It's a standard item and it affixes to most OnQ cabinets.
The same OnQ plates for DSC will also fit in a ChannelPlus (aka OpenHouse) structured wiring cabinet.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
941-866-1100
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================>

 

[Robert L Bass]

I prefer reverse polarity flux capacitAtors.

Those only function if the lightning strikes just as you reach 88 mph.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
941-866-1100
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================>

 

[G. Morgan]

And they must be rated for 1.21 jigawatts.

 

[Crash Gordon]

Does that plate come with somekind of protector/barrier to keep other stuff
from contacting the circuit board?

I use OpenHouse swbs a lot and which I could find something lilke this for
other products (I don't do dsc).

R.


|> I have a friend with a 1555 mounted in
| > a structured box like that and it worked
| > very well however I can't recall the
| > name of the box at the moment
|
| It's probably an OnQ box. He'll also need an OnQ mounting plate for DSC.
It's a standard item and it affixes to most OnQ cabinets.
| The same OnQ plates for DSC will also fit in a ChannelPlus (aka OpenHouse)
structured wiring cabinet.
|
| --
|
| Regards,
| Robert L Bass
|
| =============================>
| Bass Home Electronics
| 941-866-1100
| 4883 Fallcrest Circle
| Sarasota · Florida · 34233
| http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
| =============================>
|
|