Fixing Headphones

[[email protected]]

I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them.

I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[mike]

I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them.

I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell
where to cut/splice.

If you have a C-meter with sub-picofarad resolution, you can
sometimes estimate the distance to the break.

I've found cable breaks with a stun gun. Just cut out the part
that caught fire. Not sure I'd try it with the headphone connected
to one end.

Soldering is an issue because it ain't normal wire. You can burn
thru it in an instant. And when you do get it soldered, it likes
to break right at the transition between flex and stiff.

There was a long thread, here, I think, about soldering the stuff.

 

[N_Cook]

I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one

side and I wanted to try fixing them.

I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering

but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts

or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

The smallest diameter sewing pin you can find, pierce the insulation and a
resistance meter

 

[Mark Zenier]

I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one
side and I wanted to try fixing them.

I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering
but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug
inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated.

A bit more info might help. What sort of price range?
What type? (cover the ear? headband? earbuds?)
(Apple?, or generic).


The stuff I mess around with are the $10 generic headband type, used with
cassette players, radios, etc.

With those, the sound element generally snap into the headband
and if you unsnap each on, there's two solder points.

Color Code for the typical 3 conductor 3.5 mm/1/8 inch plug

green - left side audio - the tip of the plug
red - right side audio - the ring on the plug
copper - ground - the sleeve (two wires, one each side)

The wires are small (40 gauge?) multi-stranded wire insulated with
thermally strippable enamel. In a two by two zipcord jacket.

(Older cords use miniature shielded conductors with red (right) and
white (left) center insulation and no other insulation on the central
conductor and shield wires. This kind of wire can short out.)


The first step it to unsnap the sound elements from the head band.
(I'm not into earbuds, I suppose there's some way to uncap the
end with the wires). Then you can measure between the solder points
on the element and the plug to find the open conductor(s). See
the color code...

One test is just to tug on the open wire and see if it pulls out.
The most frequent breakage is at the place where the wire exits the
headband, about 3/8 inch down. At this point, cut, strip back about 3/4
inch from the break, tin the wire, remove the old wire bit on the sound
element connection, and re-solder. (If symmetry in the cord matters,
you may have shorten the cord and reinstall on the other side too,
or just put a knot in the other side).

The wire isn't that hard to deal with. You need a high temperature
solder iron to strip off the insulation. (Avoid the smoke!). Just
get a blob on the tip of the iron and use that to strip the insulation
and tin a 1/8 inch or less of the conductor.

A lower temperature iron is suggested to solder to the connection points
on the sound element. There are usually two pads for each connection,
one for the headset cord, another to connect to the speaker coil with
VERY SMALL wire, avoid disturbing that one.

Another breakage point is at the strain relief at the plug end.
Often you can fell the break where the wire has a "soft spot" at the
high stress point.

As most plugs are molded on, it's time for a $.69-$2 for a new plug.
Or a whole cord assembly. (I've seen them in Mouser's catalog, anybody
tried them?)

When putting on a replacement plug, remember to put the outer insulator
on the wire before you solder on the plug assembly.
(See color code..., use your ohm meter frequently).

I often reinforce the strain relief on the wire exiting the plug with
some small (1/16"?) shrink tubing. Likewise the area where the wires
exit the headband. The kitchen toaster works good for shrink tubing. ;-)


Mark Zenier [email protected]
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

 

[Cydrome Leader]

I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side and I wanted to try fixing them.

I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

you could turn this into a big task, but start easy.

chop off the damn plug. replace it with a new one. that will fix
headphones 99% of the time.

keep the old plug around to trace out what wires to attach to which
channel.

use lots of heatshrink on your new plug as a strain relief.

 

[George Herold]

you could turn this into a big task, but start easy.

chop off the damn plug. replace it with a new one. that will fix
headphones 99% of the time.

keep the old plug around to trace out what wires to attach to which
channel.

use lots of heatshrink on your new plug as a strain relief.

Yup, I've only fixed a few of these for the kids, but every time the
broken wire was right next to the plug. That point gets the most
twisting, bending etc...

George H.

 

[mike]

in message


I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell
where to cut/splice.





Oh really.

And how is this going to help the OP?



Gareth.

I gave two valid ways to accomplish the task: "it will involve locating
where the break is,"

At last count, that's two more than you.

Your move...

 

[mike]

in message

I gave two valid ways to accomplish the task: "it will involve locating
where the break is,"

At last count, that's two more than you.

Your move...




OK, take a read of what you wrote:




I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell
where to cut/splice.

If you have a C-meter with sub-picofarad resolution, you can
sometimes estimate the distance to the break.






Do you seriously think you are helping the OP, or are instead just
blowing your own trumpet?

Bearing in mind, of course, that the OP is just a bloke off the street
who happens to have a pair of broken headphones, and probably doesn't
happen to possess a sophisticated set of test equipment, or the
knowledge to carry out the tasks you are suggesting he ought to.



Get a grip, ffs.



Gareth.

By my count, despite all your bluster, it's still 2-0.
If you have a better idea, spill it.

 

[Phil Allison]

I have a couple of headphones that have stopped producing sound on one side
and I wanted to try fixing them.

I know it will involve locating where the break is, as well as soldering
but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

I assume that the problem is either at the location where the plug inserts
or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

Any advice from anyone who has done this would be appreciated.

** Ever hear of Google??

There are lots of pages and U-tubes on the subject.



.... Phil

 

[N_Cook]

you could turn this into a big task, but start easy.

chop off the damn plug. replace it with a new one. that will fix
headphones 99% of the time.

keep the old plug around to trace out what wires to attach to which
channel.

use lots of heatshrink on your new plug as a strain relief.

Or some hotmelt glue roughly wiped over the join plus one piece of
heatshrink for poor-mans adhesive heatshrink

 

[[email protected]]

A bit more info might help. What sort of price range?

What type? (cover the ear? headband? earbuds?)

(Apple?, or generic).





The stuff I mess around with are the $10 generic headband type, used with

cassette players, radios, etc.



With those, the sound element generally snap into the headband

and if you unsnap each on, there's two solder points.



Color Code for the typical 3 conductor 3.5 mm/1/8 inch plug



green - left side audio - the tip of the plug

red - right side audio - the ring on the plug

copper - ground - the sleeve (two wires, one each side)



The wires are small (40 gauge?) multi-stranded wire insulated with

thermally strippable enamel. In a two by two zipcord jacket.



(Older cords use miniature shielded conductors with red (right) and

white (left) center insulation and no other insulation on the central

conductor and shield wires. This kind of wire can short out.)





The first step it to unsnap the sound elements from the head band.

(I'm not into earbuds, I suppose there's some way to uncap the

end with the wires). Then you can measure between the solder points

on the element and the plug to find the open conductor(s). See

the color code...



One test is just to tug on the open wire and see if it pulls out.

The most frequent breakage is at the place where the wire exits the

headband, about 3/8 inch down. At this point, cut, strip back about 3/4

inch from the break, tin the wire, remove the old wire bit on the sound

element connection, and re-solder. (If symmetry in the cord matters,

you may have shorten the cord and reinstall on the other side too,

or just put a knot in the other side).



The wire isn't that hard to deal with. You need a high temperature

solder iron to strip off the insulation. (Avoid the smoke!). Just

get a blob on the tip of the iron and use that to strip the insulation

and tin a 1/8 inch or less of the conductor.



A lower temperature iron is suggested to solder to the connection points

on the sound element. There are usually two pads for each connection,

one for the headset cord, another to connect to the speaker coil with

VERY SMALL wire, avoid disturbing that one.



Another breakage point is at the strain relief at the plug end.

Often you can fell the break where the wire has a "soft spot" at the

high stress point.



As most plugs are molded on, it's time for a $.69-$2 for a new plug.

Or a whole cord assembly. (I've seen them in Mouser's catalog, anybody

tried them?)



When putting on a replacement plug, remember to put the outer insulator

on the wire before you solder on the plug assembly.

(See color code..., use your ohm meter frequently).



I often reinforce the strain relief on the wire exiting the plug with

some small (1/16"?) shrink tubing. Likewise the area where the wires

exit the headband. The kitchen toaster works good for shrink tubing. ;-)





Mark Zenier [email protected]

Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

I'd need visual aids to understand what is being referred to. But the information on the heahdphones is as follows: “SONY Synamic Stereo Headphones MDR-7502 Professional”. Here’s one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400426911595

It is the right side that doesn't work. And the plug has two green rings.

I'm wondering if there are replacement ear pads available for this. IF not it wouldn't be worth fixing.

I attempted to check continuity by sticking a sewing needle into both parallel wire leads in order to determine if the break was at the plug and had no luck at all. So it looks as though I'll just have to shotgun by strippingthe wires.

From what is said here I should start with replacing the plug. But I haven't been able to find anything via Google as far as an illustrated diagram onhow everything is connected.

Do I start by cutting off the plug so that there are on the two leads left?(Of course I'd have to find a replacement first).

I'm not sure how to deal with the leads where they enter the earpieces or if it is possible to open the ear pieces up.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[[email protected]]

I'd need visual aids to understand what is being referred to. But the information on the heahdphones is as follows: “SONY Synamic Stereo Headphones MDR-7502 Professional”. Here’s one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400426911595



It is the right side that doesn't work. And the plug has two green rings.



I'm wondering if there are replacement ear pads available for this. IF not it wouldn't be worth fixing.



I attempted to check continuity by sticking a sewing needle into both parallel wire leads in order to determine if the break was at the plug and hadno luck at all. So it looks as though I'll just have to shotgun by stripping the wires.



From what is said here I should start with replacing the plug. But I haven't been able to find anything via Google as far as an illustrated diagram on how everything is connected.



Do I start by cutting off the plug so that there are on the two leads left? (Of course I'd have to find a replacement first).



I'm not sure how to deal with the leads where they enter the earpieces orif it is possible to open the ear pieces up.



Thanks.



Darren Harris

Staten Island, New York.

On Google I've been looking at exploded views of headphones and they are not clear at all. If I knew what was supposed to be connected to what it would make things easier because I've never seen the inside of headphones before. And I can see no way to open these up without breaking them.

I hate to have to shotgun, but I still need to find a way to determine where the break is.

I'd really like to just add twin 18 or 16 gauge leads from a plug to the ear pieces, but don't know if that is plausible. (I can't even find plugs I can solder to locally).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[Mark Zenier]

I'd need visual aids to understand what is being referred to. But the
information on the heahdphones is as follows: “SONY Synamic Stereo
Headphones MDR-7502 Professional”. Here’s one on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400426911595

I'm wondering if there are replacement ear pads available for this. IF
not it wouldn't be worth fixing.

Sorry about the delay.

Looking up the model number, these are $65 (list price) over-the-ear
phones. An order of magnitude more expensive that the stuff I'm hacking
on. Getting inside probably involves screws hidden under labels or
plastic plugs.

At that price range, I'd try a Sony spare parts source first to see if
there's a replacment cord and ear pads. There's a link to a megabyte
pdf manual on the page for that model on pro.sony.com, maybe it has a
spare parts list. (Google on MDR-7502, it was the second or third link
for my search).

Anybody have a favorite URL for Sony Parts?


Mark Zenier [email protected]
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

 

[[email protected]]

Sorry about the delay.



Looking up the model number, these are $65 (list price) over-the-ear

phones. An order of magnitude more expensive that the stuff I'm hacking

on. Getting inside probably involves screws hidden under labels or

plastic plugs.



At that price range, I'd try a Sony spare parts source first to see if

there's a replacment cord and ear pads. There's a link to a megabyte

pdf manual on the page for that model on pro.sony.com, maybe it has a

spare parts list. (Google on MDR-7502, it was the second or third link

for my search).



Anybody have a favorite URL for Sony Parts?





Mark Zenier [email protected]

Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

I'll have to take another look at it to see if I can figure out how to get it open. It just doesn't seem like there is a way to open it up without breaking it.

There is no way to tell where the break is until I get it open.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[[email protected]]

If you can search the SER newsgroup try *tinsel wire* for a couple of recent

discussions wrt tiny cables used in headphones and portable electronic gear

accessories.



Those tiny wires need to be stabilized/secured near the solder connection so

the conductors don't bend/move near the solder, or the wires will break off

fairly quickly.



--

Cheers,

WB

.............

I managed to fix one of the several pairs I have. At least temporarily. The leads tend to break near where they enter the ear pieces.

I opened up a different pair last night and this one, unlike the others has three instead of two leads: http://s290.photobucket.com/user/Statenislander/media/Projects/EarPiece_zps9de2838f.jpg.html

The typical red and green, but also a black lead which I assume is ground.

I see a lot of 2.5mm adaptors on Ebay, but these are not what I can solder to. ?!?

Also, I have no idea where to get the two or three led wires that can be used to repair headphones.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[[email protected]]

Can anyone tell me where I can get the specific wire used or whether or not it is plausible to use some 20g I have?

Also, where can I get the plugs for headphones? (I assume one just solders the leads to them before using something like shrink-wrap).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.