you for your resonse!
Read on!
This is your choice! u choose to hel, great! If not, that is great, too!
I agree, except cost god up significantly for the exotic AC motors
*required* for a non-transmission conversion.
You CAN use a series wouns DC motor without a transmission. All
Sebrings and many other purpose built electrics run direct drive with
DC motors.
Automatics require the motor to be running for the best operation
otherwise there is some lag when you ste on the accelerator.
Unacceptable in traffic! When you need it to go, you need it to go!
You do NOT need a torque converter on an electric motored automatic.
And the hydraulics CAN be powered by a separate electric motor.
You will some on a 120V system, because that is a lot of battery weight!
20 batteries at 60-70 pounds each is quite a bit. . .
20 batteries at 60 lbs each is 1200 lbs. But you CAN run 12 volt
batteries, requiring only 10 batteries, and you CAN use smaller
batteries. How far do you want to travel on a charge? And how much
horsepower do you want to waste hauwling around batteries?
If you have 20 40 AH batteries you have 4.8KW hours of battery, or 6
HP hours. That will move a small aerodynamic 2400 lb car 50 miles in
town with battery to spare, or 30 miles at 50mph. A 6 volt 20ah
battery is about 20 lbs, so your "battery diet" is 400 lbs. Add 100
lbs for a low tech motor capable of providing the required performance
to run sans transmission, or 45 lbs for one that will need the 100 lb
tranny and give you better efficiency (more miles per AH battery
capacity) and you are only a couple hundred pounds heavier than the
engine, full fuel tank, cooling system, sound deadening, exhaust, etc
that you can do without.
Remember, everything (weight wize) the car does not have is something
you don't need to provide power to move. Keep it simple and light.
It's the only way electric makes sense.
I agree a pickup may not be the best choice if you need to go "The
Distance" however, for the use I am planning, a pickup will be far more
practical for my operation than a car.
Then you need to be ready to pay the penalties - and they will be
significant.
Cost is an issue. . . That is why I am asking for assistance!
Agreed. New with warranty would be better, though. . .
New? With warrantee? Better? HOW? Gamble a bit. used surplus will
cost you significantly less than new - generally closer to 1/4. You
can replace the motor FOUR TIMES for the cost of a new one - and if
you burn out a new one because of something you did wrong (and that is
pretty well the ONLY way you will burn one out) good luck getting
warranty coverage anyway.
I have done my homework. And if I want to cobble some crap together and
hope for the best, I might be able to do it for half the price. But I
want a quality made, reliable system when I get it completed. If you
read the entire website, you will see that part or the project deals
with practicality of EVs for general use. I want it to be reliable and
trustworthy, and to go when I need it to.
And you want someone else to pay for it? Sure. Build one on the cheap
to prove you can do it, THEN mabee you can get investors to throw
money your way to "improve" it.
If I can get the stuff to do the conversion for half the cost, I'd
definitely be interested, but I want quality, not cobble-ity. . .
You can definitely get quality at low cost if you are not too proud to
beg. And you most definitely are NOT that. Talk to a local fork-lift
company and see what you can wrangle motor-wise. Ditto with the
controller - or make your own. Then, after some experience, determine
where money will give you the best return - in battery technology,
controller technology, or motor technology. See where you can reduce
weight, drag, and rolling resistance - all three come a lot cheaper
than power.