Newbie here.
I'm trying to make an electronic emulator for the EGR valves on my 2007 Discovery - which has had the EGRs blanked
but not removed. Currently I have a 'dummy' EGR lashed to the battery box, which works well - but won't work forever.
I have made up the circuit here:
https://www.electronicspoint.com/threads/help-to-design-egr-valve-simulator-cheater.244193/
But I think the 1K resistor across the connectors for the actuator is making the ECU think the EGR is open
circuit - I've dismantled an old EGR and the coil on the actuator measures 8ohm on my multimeter.
Would it be safe to replace the 1K with a smaller resistor - say 470ohm or 200ohm and expect the ECU to be happy.
The actuator seems to be connected to the full ignition voltage on one side and a PWM signal on the other which
effectively 'earths' it (presumably to avoid back-emf?)
I'm reluctant to just try willy nilly in case I damage the ECU.
Any help gratefully received
I'm trying to make an electronic emulator for the EGR valves on my 2007 Discovery - which has had the EGRs blanked
but not removed. Currently I have a 'dummy' EGR lashed to the battery box, which works well - but won't work forever.
I have made up the circuit here:
https://www.electronicspoint.com/threads/help-to-design-egr-valve-simulator-cheater.244193/
But I think the 1K resistor across the connectors for the actuator is making the ECU think the EGR is open
circuit - I've dismantled an old EGR and the coil on the actuator measures 8ohm on my multimeter.
Would it be safe to replace the 1K with a smaller resistor - say 470ohm or 200ohm and expect the ECU to be happy.
The actuator seems to be connected to the full ignition voltage on one side and a PWM signal on the other which
effectively 'earths' it (presumably to avoid back-emf?)
I'm reluctant to just try willy nilly in case I damage the ECU.
Any help gratefully received