DSC Power832

[Chris Moore]

Hello! My recently purchased foreclosed home has a Power832 system
installed. To the best of my (limited) knowledge, I have a PC5580Z
keypad (photo here: http://flickr.com/photos/cdmwebs/441461942/in/set-72157600039220788/)
and a PC5010 control board. I had zero information on it, so I did
some Googling and found the installation manual, operating manual,
keypad manual and programming worksheet. This is all well and good so
far, but I've come to discover that the programming process seems to
be somewhat complex.

My setup seems pretty simple to me, three doors (front, back and
garage entry), garage attic, motion in living/dining common areas,
carbon monoxide detector and glass break in the garage. It's setup
like this:

Zone 01 - Front Door (Entry/Exit)
Zone 02 - Read Door
Zone 03 - Garage Entry Door
Zone 04 - Garage Attic Door
Zone 05 - Motion
Zone 06 - CO Detector
Zone 07 - Garage Glass Break
Zone 08 - Null

What is the bare minimum I need to program to get this working? The
programming worksheet has all kinds of stuff that I'm not even sure is
relevant.

Bonus: How hard would it be for me to upgrade the keypad to a newer
LCD version?

Thanks in advance, security system gurus!

 

[Frank Olson]

Hello! My recently purchased foreclosed home has a Power832 system
installed. To the best of my (limited) knowledge, I have a PC5580Z
keypad (photo here: http://flickr.com/photos/cdmwebs/441461942/in/set-72157600039220788/)
and a PC5010 control board. I had zero information on it, so I did
some Googling and found the installation manual, operating manual,
keypad manual and programming worksheet. This is all well and good so
far, but I've come to discover that the programming process seems to
be somewhat complex.

Actually, DSC is one of the easiest panels to program (for most rocket
scientists).

My setup seems pretty simple to me, three doors (front, back and
garage entry), garage attic, motion in living/dining common areas,
carbon monoxide detector and glass break in the garage. It's setup
like this:

Zone 01 - Front Door (Entry/Exit)
Zone 02 - Read Door
Zone 03 - Garage Entry Door
Zone 04 - Garage Attic Door
Zone 05 - Motion
Zone 06 - CO Detector
Zone 07 - Garage Glass Break
Zone 08 - Null

What is the bare minimum I need to program to get this working? The
programming worksheet has all kinds of stuff that I'm not even sure is
relevant.

Can you even access installer level programming?? If so, you'll want to
reset the installer and master codes. You might also want to make sure
your siren time-out is set at four minutes. As for actual zone
programming, the zone options are detailed in the programming work sheets.

Bonus: How hard would it be for me to upgrade the keypad to a newer
LCD version?

Simple. Power down your system. Remove keypad from wall. Remove four
wires from terminal block. Wire up new keypad, and mount on wall.
Power up system. Programming the LCD descriptors can be a bit time
consuming if you're using the "finger" method (keypad programming).
It's a bit quicker using DLS.

 

[alarman]

Hello! My recently purchased foreclosed home has a Power832 system
installed. To the best of my (limited) knowledge, I have a PC5580Z
keypad (photo here:
http://flickr.com/photos/cdmwebs/441461942/in/set-72157600039220788/)
and a PC5010 control board. I had zero information on it, so I did
some Googling and found the installation manual, operating manual,
keypad manual and programming worksheet. This is all well and good so
far, but I've come to discover that the programming process seems to
be somewhat complex.

My setup seems pretty simple to me, three doors (front, back and
garage entry), garage attic, motion in living/dining common areas,
carbon monoxide detector and glass break in the garage. It's setup
like this:

Zone 01 - Front Door (Entry/Exit)
Zone 02 - Read Door
Zone 03 - Garage Entry Door
Zone 04 - Garage Attic Door
Zone 05 - Motion
Zone 06 - CO Detector
Zone 07 - Garage Glass Break
Zone 08 - Null

What is the bare minimum I need to program to get this working? The
programming worksheet has all kinds of stuff that I'm not even sure is
relevant.

Bonus: How hard would it be for me to upgrade the keypad to a newer
LCD version?

Thanks in advance, security system gurus!

<sigh>

 

[Doug]

If he lives more than 25 miles from Jacks house then he'll be OK, if Jack
can't go home for lunch then its too far.

Doug

 

[Chris Moore]

Actually, DSC is one of the easiest panels to program (for most rocket
scientists).








Can you even access installer level programming?? If so, you'll want to
reset the installer and master codes. You might also want to make sure
your siren time-out is set at four minutes. As for actual zone
programming, the zone options are detailed in the programming work sheets.




Simple. Power down your system. Remove keypad from wall. Remove four
wires from terminal block. Wire up new keypad, and mount on wall.
Power up system. Programming the LCD descriptors can be a bit time
consuming if you're using the "finger" method (keypad programming).
It's a bit quicker using DLS.

Yes, when I defaulted the system I was able to reset the installer and
master codes. So far, it seems like the best idea is to either do more
research on this DLS mentioned below or find someone skilled in the
art of DSC programming who would help me out for $$$. I'll keep
trying.

Thanks.

 

[alarman]

I have never seen one hand programmed DSC panel that
didn't have at least one serious programming error flagged by the
software.

Must be a lot of boneheads in your area.

 

[alarman]

If he lives more than 25 miles from Jacks house then he'll be OK, if
Jack can't go home for lunch then its too far.

Doug won't even consider a job unless he has to drive three hours to get
there. I think he has stock in Exxon Mobil.

 

[alarman]

Doug won't even consider a job unless he has to drive three hours to
get there. I think he has stock in Exxon Mobil.

Come to think of it, Doug's in LA so many 25 mile trips do take three hours.

js

"I did NOT have sex with that woman."
(Call of the great North American Boob, soon to be extinct.)

 

[Doug]

Only at 3 am, if your lucky.

Doug

--

Come to think of it, Doug's in LA so many 25 mile trips do take three
hours.

js

"I did NOT have sex with that woman."
(Call of the great North American Boob, soon to be extinct.)

 

[CH®IS]

Yes, when I defaulted the system I was able to reset the installer and
master codes. So far, it seems like the best idea is to either do more
research on this DLS mentioned below or find someone skilled in the
art of DSC programming who would help me out for $$$. I'll keep
trying.

From a homeowner's perspective, DLS would be an extreme waste of time and
money. It would be less expensive to either study the manual and figure it
out (especially since the programming can be reset knowing that you won't be
locked out of the panel), or get someone to do it for you. Everyone here
thinks DLS is so wonderful because they already have it, along with all the
equipment for it, and knows how to use it.

When I first started out as an apprentice, I was given a Power832 to take
home and get the hang of programming and see what everything does and all
that kinda stuff. It only took half an hour or so to get it programmed and
working properly then, and it only takes 2 - 3 minutes to program one now.

The best option, however, may be to get a small local company to come by and
program everything for you. That way you'll know it's done properly. If
they won't do it without signing you up for monitoring you've found the
wrong company. Plus that way you'll have someone you know to call if you
need some work done on it in the future. I wouldn't expect to pay more than
$100 for this, probably closer to half that.

And as far as your keypad goes, it would be very easy to change to something
better. The 5501z is the standard choice for most, but some like the added
functionality of the 5500z. And of course there's all the other options
that Roland already mentioned.

If you do choose to program it yourself, I would recommend printing out the
programming worksheets and writing everything down first before making any
changes. If you get stuck on anything, just ask and this group can
definitely help you get through the programming.

- Chris

 

[Doug]

My reputation goes before me, I'm having to go further and further afield to
find work.

Doug

--

 

[alarman]

When I first started out as an apprentice, I was given a Power832 to
take home and get the hang of programming and see what everything
does and all that kinda stuff. It only took half an hour or so to
get it programmed and working properly then, and it only takes 2 - 3
minutes to program one now.
The best option, however, may be to get a small local company to come
by and program everything for you. That way you'll know it's done
properly. If they won't do it without signing you up for monitoring
you've found the wrong company. Plus that way you'll have someone
you know to call if you need some work done on it in the future. I
wouldn't expect to pay more than $100 for this, probably closer to
half that.

Find a company who will come to your home, properly program an alarm
control, assume the liability for the operation of the system, and expect
that company to do this for $50, with no monitoring contract?

I'm guessing you'll be voting for Hillary.

js

 

[CH®IS]

Find a company who will come to your home, properly program an alarm
control, assume the liability for the operation of the system, and expect
that company to do this for $50, with no monitoring contract?

Any liability would clearly be with the homeowner. Naturally any issues a
tech discovers should be discussed with the homeowner. After programming, a
full system test would be the obvious next step (may as well throw out the
CO detector, if I can't test it I don't trust it).

It's an 832 which sounds like it isn't monitored. Arm it, set it off, make
sure everything went into alarm, there ya go.

And $50 for 3 minutes of programming and another few minutes of testing on a
defaulted 832? Is it that hard to imagine?

- Chris

 

[motley me]

The best option, however, may be to get a small local company to come
by and program everything for you. That way you'll know it's done
properly. If they won't do it without signing you up for monitoring
you've found the wrong company. Plus that way you'll have someone you
know to call if you need some work done on it in the future. I
wouldn't expect to pay more than $100 for this, probably closer to
half that.

My rates are fairly low compared to some here nad i wouldn't do it for
that. Not to roll a truck, program the system, and test it out.

 

[alarman]

Any liability would clearly be with the homeowner. Naturally any
issues a tech discovers should be discussed with the homeowner. After
programming, a full system test would be the obvious next step
(may as well throw out the CO detector, if I can't test it I don't
trust it). > And $50 for 3 minutes of programming and another few minutes
of
testing on a defaulted 832? Is it that hard to imagine?

Any liability would clearly be with the homeowner? You are very naive. The
liability would certainly rest with the last poor schmuck who worked on the
system. And no contract, remember, so my house go bye-bye.
And you are going to shitcan their CO detector? Expain that at the civil
trial while their attorney has your balls on the chopping block. And now you
are including a full system test. How much time do you imagine this little
programming mission will take?

Well, lets see...we drive to your house, let's say 1/2 hour. Your
programming time of three minutes is unrealistic, since the system would
need to be fully checked to see how the zones need to be configured so that
we know HOW to program the system, minimum 1/2 hour. Now we do the
programming, test the system, demonstrate it, another 1/2 hour minimum. This
is if all goes well of course, which it never does. Just after you finish
the demo to the Mrs., Mr. homeowner comes home and you'll need to do it
again. And when was the last time you went to reactivate an existing system
and everything worked perfectly? It doesn't happen that way, repairs and/or
adjustments will almost certainly need to be made, so another 1/2 hour,
minimum. Now I have a BARE MINIMUM of 2 hours invested in this project, have
assumed liability for the entire system, (no contract, remember), and all
for $50. Out of this, I pay for gasoline, service truck, vehicle, liability,
and E/O insurance, telephone, licensing, taxes, tools, etc.

It's an 832 which sounds like it isn't monitored. Arm it, set it
off, make sure everything went into alarm, there ya go.

Sure, nothing to it, Skippy. What planet are you from?

js

 

[CH®IS]

Well, lets see...we drive to your house, let's say 1/2 hour.

If it's in town here it'll be half that at most (small city). Out of town,
we'll either charge for travel or we'll add it to a day when we're in that
area. If you're in a larger city (as you most likely are), half an hour is
a good start.

Your programming time of three minutes is unrealistic, since the system
would need to be fully checked to see how the zones need to be configured
so that we know HOW to program the system, minimum 1/2 hour.

In this case, the zone list is written on the keypad, and nothing appears to
be scratched out or added. Check the panel to ensure there are still only 7
zones and it's not a rat's nest of wire to be a little more confident.

Now we do the programming, test the system, demonstrate it, another 1/2
hour minimum.

I'll give you 5 minutes to have a look at the system, 3 minutes to program,
another 5 minutes for testing, training (with a competent user) should be
less than 5 minutes. So I'm up to 18 minutes for all that. Did you have
lunch with them during the training?

This is if all goes well of course, which it never does.

I'll give you that one. Always depends on the original installation.

Just after you finish the demo to the Mrs., Mr. homeowner comes home and
you'll need to do it again.

So another 5 minutes? I find that the one who was there will often explain
it all to the one who wasn't, so I just listen in to make sure they don't
screw it up.

And when was the last time you went to reactivate an existing system and
everything worked perfectly?

I've done at least 3 in the past couple of weeks that were perfect. One
almost perfectly, except it needed a new surface contact. Then again, we
don't have a door knocker in the area to install crap either, I assume most
people on here do.

It doesn't happen that way, repairs and/or adjustments will almost
certainly need to be made, so another 1/2 hour, minimum. Now I have a BARE
MINIMUM of 2 hours invested in this project, have assumed liability for
the entire system, (no contract, remember), and all for $50. Out of this,
I pay for gasoline, service truck, vehicle, liability, and E/O insurance,
telephone, licensing, taxes, tools, etc.

You have a bare minimum of 2 hours. I have a bare minimum of 38 minutes,
plus a couple more here and there for the chatty types you'll inevitably run
into when you're in a hurry. I'm still missing your point on the liability
issues (just an installer, I don't run the company). No contract means less
paperwork and less time. I'll pay a little in gas, you'll be stuck in
traffic for your extra 82 minutes paying more for gas. As for the rest of
it, it's all part of the business. If you weren't paying it, you wouldn't
be getting paid.

- Chris

 

[alarman]

...

If it's in town here it'll be half that at most (small city). Out of
town, we'll either charge for travel or we'll add it to a day when
we're in that area. If you're in a larger city (as you most likely
are), half an hour is a good start.


In this case, the zone list is written on the keypad, and nothing
appears to be scratched out or added. Check the panel to ensure
there are still only 7 zones and it's not a rat's nest of wire to be
a little more confident.

I'll give you 5 minutes to have a look at the system, 3 minutes to
program, another 5 minutes for testing, training (with a competent
user) should be less than 5 minutes. So I'm up to 18 minutes for all
that. Did you have lunch with them during the training?


I'll give you that one. Always depends on the original installation.


So another 5 minutes? I find that the one who was there will often
explain it all to the one who wasn't, so I just listen in to make
sure they don't screw it up.


I've done at least 3 in the past couple of weeks that were perfect. One
almost perfectly, except it needed a new surface contact. Then
again, we don't have a door knocker in the area to install crap
either, I assume most people on here do.


You have a bare minimum of 2 hours. I have a bare minimum of 38
minutes, plus a couple more here and there for the chatty types
you'll inevitably run into when you're in a hurry. I'm still missing
your point on the liability issues (just an installer, I don't run
the company). No contract means less paperwork and less time. I'll
pay a little in gas, you'll be stuck in traffic for your extra 82
minutes paying more for gas. As for the rest of it, it's all part of
the business. If you weren't paying it, you wouldn't be getting paid.

- Chris

OK, now I understand. When (if) you run your own business, so will you.

 

[Chris Moore]

...


From a homeowner's perspective, DLS would be an extreme waste of time and
money. It would be less expensive to either study the manual and figure it
out (especially since the programming can be reset knowing that you won't be
locked out of the panel), or get someone to do it for you. Everyone here
thinks DLS is so wonderful because they already have it, along with all the
equipment for it, and knows how to use it.

When I first started out as an apprentice, I was given a Power832 to take
home and get the hang of programming and see what everything does and all
that kinda stuff. It only took half an hour or so to get it programmed and
working properly then, and it only takes 2 - 3 minutes to program one now.

The best option, however, may be to get a small local company to come by and
program everything for you. That way you'll know it's done properly. If
they won't do it without signing you up for monitoring you've found the
wrong company. Plus that way you'll have someone you know to call if you
need some work done on it in the future. I wouldn't expect to pay more than
$100 for this, probably closer to half that.

And as far as your keypad goes, it would be very easy to change to something
better. The 5501z is the standard choice for most, but some like the added
functionality of the 5500z. And of course there's all the other options
that Roland already mentioned.

If you do choose to program it yourself, I would recommend printing out the
programming worksheets and writing everything down first before making any
changes. If you get stuck on anything, just ask and this group can
definitely help you get through the programming.

- Chris

First, I never meant to begin a heated debate on the pros and cons of
monitoring vs. paying someone cash to program my system. However,
thank you to Chris, Roland and Frank who helped me out.

I took some time, messed around and have it programmed. To be
perfectly honest all I want to do with the damn thing is tie it in
with my Linux server and work on a "home-grown" security system to tie
in with my video monitoring setup. It's just a hobby, but I do
actually have an interest in how the whole thing works.

Chris

 

[Robert L Bass]

Yes, when I defaulted the system I was able to reset the installer

and master codes. So far, it seems like the best idea is to either
do more research on this DLS mentioned below or find someone
skilled in the art of DSC programming who would help me out for
$$$. I'll keep trying.

The software is available free. You need a compatible modem to use
it, though. If you want the software contact me. I've programmed a
few of the Power832 systems and they're not difficult. I can help
you understand the terminology and options if you like.

You can do the job using the hardware you have or you can upgrade the
keypad. Do the upgrade only if you want/need the better keypad --
not just to facilitate programming -- since it can be done either
way.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

==============================>
Bass Home Electronics
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
Sales & Tech Support 941-925-8650
Customer Service 941-232-0791
Fax 941-870-3252
==============================>

 

[Doug]

Jack goes home for lunch, and you're out to lunch if you think you can
determine how the customer wants the system to function, locate all the
devices, reprogram the system, do a complete system test and train the
customer in 18 minutes. If you're only taking 18 minutes you are not doing a
thorough job.

Doug