DIY PCB

[vick5821]

As in title, is it possible to make a DIY PCB using the layout printed from a normal printer ? Like canon printer instead of laser printer ? If possible , how it is done ? Just wanted to know more alternative to do a PCB since I do not have a laser printer now .

Well, I have another question also, will the thickness of the paper/magazine used for printing will affects the transferring process from the paper to the copper board ? If yes, how it will affect ?

Thank you

 

[jackorocko]

I don't think ink will stick to an overhead transparency.

 

[vick5821]

I don't think ink will stick to an overhead transparency.

So I have to use laser printer and transparency paper ?

 

[Resqueline]

Yes, unless you can get some matte & transparent drawing paper (that ink will stick to). Maybe there's some polyester foil made for the purpose.
The problem with both ink & laser printer drawings is that they have a poor contrast ratio when transilluminated. Thick paper will further reduce the contrast ratio.
A trick to minimise pinholes and broken tracks is to put two identical transparencies on top of each other when illuminating.

 

[vick5821]

Yes, unless you can get some matte & transparent drawing paper (that ink will stick to). Maybe there's some polyester foil made for the purpose.
The problem with both ink & laser printer drawings is that they have a poor contrast ratio when transilluminated. Thick paper will further reduce the contrast ratio.
A trick to minimise pinholes and broken tracks is to put two identical transparencies on top of each other when illuminating.

I didnt illuminate them..I will be either using iron or laminator..If I wan to illuminate, I can just use the normal table light ?

Thank you

 

[Raven Luni]

One of the first things I plan to do once my z80 controller platform is working is make a CNC machine for engraving PCBs. With some of the messes I've made with strip board it will be a godsend. I'll post some fail pics for a laugh some time

 

[Resqueline]

I didnt illuminate them..I will be either using iron or laminator..If I wan to illuminate, I can just use the normal table light ?

A hot iron transfer method requires laser printer (or xerox) technology. Ink won't melt & transfer.
Since photo resist is UV sensitive and a normal (define normal) incandescent bulb emits very little UV it will take a long time, but it can be done.

 

[BobK]

With some of the messes I've made with strip board it will be a godsend.

Have you tried VeeCAD? It is like a PCB layout program for stripboard. I used it for these two boards and had only one mistake (easily fixed missed cut) between the two of them.

The top board is uC based constant current LED driver. The second is a low power audio amp (I just had to do my own design from scratch.)

The back of each board is completely clean, no wires, just the stripboard traces cut where they need to be.

Bob

 

[BobK]

Yes, unless you can get some matte & transparent drawing paper (that ink will stick to). Maybe there's some polyester foil made for the purpose.
The problem with both ink & laser printer drawings is that they have a poor contrast ratio when transilluminated. Thick paper will further reduce the contrast ratio.
A trick to minimise pinholes and broken tracks is to put two identical transparencies on top of each other when illuminating.

There is transparency film for ink.

http://www.staples.com/Apollo-Quick-Dry-Inkjet-Printer-Transparency-Film/product_449766

Bob

 

[Raven Luni]

Have you tried VeeCAD? It is like a PCB layout program for stripboard. I used it for these two boards and had only one mistake (easily fixed missed cut) between the two of them.

The top board is uC based constant current LED driver. The second is a low power audio amp (I just had to do my own design from scratch.)

The back of each board is completely clean, no wires, just the stripboard traces cut where they need to be.

Bob

Interesting. I'll have a look at that. There does seem to be alot of space used though.

 

[(*steve*)]

Toner transfer is a method of creating PCBs. It requires care, cleaning, and practice, but not much more than optical methods. Best thing is that it can be done with stuff you have around the house (an iron).

I have seen some people trying to do direct inkjet printing of PCB patterns, but it's not a trivial process.

Whatever method you use, you'll still have to drill the board, and that can be worse (in some respects) than etching it.

If you decide to avoid as much of the drilling as possible by using surface mount, you then need to look at other equipment to allow you to do this.

Veroboard, proto boards, and matrix board still have their uses. Also have a look at Manhattan layouts! (It's probably more fiddly than some other techniques, but I'm sure it has its uses)

 

[vick5821]

Have you tried VeeCAD? It is like a PCB layout program for stripboard. I used it for these two boards and had only one mistake (easily fixed missed cut) between the two of them.

The top board is uC based constant current LED driver. The second is a low power audio amp (I just had to do my own design from scratch.)

The back of each board is completely clean, no wires, just the stripboard traces cut where they need to be.

Bob

Can you explain to me what VeeCAD does ? Is it a software that helps you to build your circuit more organised in a stripboard ?

 

[vick5821]

Have you tried VeeCAD? It is like a PCB layout program for stripboard. I used it for these two boards and had only one mistake (easily fixed missed cut) between the two of them.

The top board is uC based constant current LED driver. The second is a low power audio amp (I just had to do my own design from scratch.)

The back of each board is completely clean, no wires, just the stripboard traces cut where they need to be.

Bob

I am intrested in this software.Can you tell me details about this ?

Thank you

 

[(*steve*)]

veecad.com

 

[vick5821]

I have downloaded the software.Anyway, thanks for your link

Btw, I have read from there, is it a software where we can design our circuit first before transfer it to stripboard ?

So means that we need to know how to arrange the components to lesser the jumper wire ?

Am I correct ?

 

[BobK]

I have downloaded the software.Anyway, thanks for your link

Btw, I have read from there, is it a software where we can design our circuit first before transfer it to stripboard ?

So means that we need to know how to arrange the components to lesser the jumper wire ?

Am I correct ?

Here is how it works.

1. You create a schematic. They reccommend TinyCad, which is another free tool, which I used.

2. You export a netlist from TinyCad or another package and you import it veeCAD.

3. In veeCAD you need to make up packages for each of the parts which give the outline
and pin spacing. Common outlines already exist, plus you can make a radial or axial
part (like reistor or capacitor) of any size. As you can see on my board, you can use
the fact the components have long leads to avoid using so many jumpers.

4. You place the components on the stripboard. The program highlights connections that
stilll need to be made, and incorrect connections (which occur generally where you
need to do cuts. You place jumpers to connect one strip to another.

5. When it all is correctly connected, you then print front and back of the board and go
do the cuts and soldering.

It works reasonably well, though I would have done things a little differently, but it certainly
is an improvement over trying to do it with pencil and paper or, worse yet, just winging it on the board itself.

Bob

 

[BobK]

Interesting. I'll have a look at that. There does seem to be alot of space used though.

The empty space is my fault. The layout is not automatic it is manual, and I did not try to go for a high density since I had plenty of space on the board for the circuits I was doing.

Bob

 

[vick5821]

Here is how it works.

1. You create a schematic. They reccommend TinyCad, which is another free tool, which I used.

2. You export a netlist from TinyCad or another package and you import it veeCAD.

3. In veeCAD you need to make up packages for each of the parts which give the outline
and pin spacing. Common outlines already exist, plus you can make a radial or axial
part (like reistor or capacitor) of any size. As you can see on my board, you can use
the fact the components have long leads to avoid using so many jumpers.

4. You place the components on the stripboard. The program highlights connections that
stilll need to be made, and incorrect connections (which occur generally where you
need to do cuts. You place jumpers to connect one strip to another.

5. When it all is correctly connected, you then print front and back of the board and go
do the cuts and soldering.

It works reasonably well, though I would have done things a little differently, but it certainly
is an improvement over trying to do it with pencil and paper or, worse yet, just winging it on the board itself.

Bob

We need to arrange the componment manually ?

 

[(*steve*)]

We need to arrange the componment manually ?

Some tools have various methods to make it easier, but yeah, most stuff is placed (and in the case of PCBs, tracks routed) manually.

The human brain is better than software (so far) at doing this, and the human also knows extra stuff like where traces have to be shorter, or otherwise need care.

 

[vick5821]

can I create the schematic in other PCB software like EAGLE/PROTEL ?