Connecting Circuit to 12V Power Supply

[tenmen]

Been trying to wire this circuit to a 12v DC power source, no joy..I have blown two boards now can someone help, what am I doing wrong...

 

[KrisBlueNZ]

Without knowing what you're doing, we can't tell what you're doing wrong.

What are you using as your power source?
How are you connecting it to the board? Can you show us a photo?
Why do you think you've "blown" two boards already?
What information came with the boards? Can you photograph or scan it?
If there was no information with the boards, can you give us the URL of the site where you bought them?
What test equipment do you have? A multimeter?

Please try to answer ALL of those questions.

 

[tenmen]

My power source is a 12v DC Battery
I am trying to connect two LED stripe lights 1 x white and 1 x red
The boards are ok, some contacts melted but now repaired and tested

Here is a link to where I purchasd the boards:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330555859216?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I have a multimeter, here are some pictures.

 

[tenmen]

Hi did you see my reply...Hope you can help

 

[KrisBlueNZ]

OK, it looks like you're nearly there.

You've got your battery connected to the power connector on the board, but I'm not sure if you have the lights connected properly. Here's what you should have.

Battery positive ---- to board power connector positive ---- also to COM1 terminal ---- also to COM2 terminal.
Battery negative ---- to board power connector negative ---- also to first lamp negative wire ---- also to second lamp negative wire.
NO1 terminal ---- to first lamp positive wire.
NO2 terminal ---- to second lamp positive wire.

That will control the two lamps from the two relays on the board.

 

[tenmen]

I have wired how you have suggested but the lights do not stay on, when I press the A button the lights connected come on but when I release go off again, same for channel two, press on, unpress go off.....I need them to stay on until I selected other button

 

[KrisBlueNZ]

So you were assuming that when you press the button, the output will turn ON, then when you press it again, it will turn OFF, and so on? This is described as a "toggle" action. What you're seeing is a momentary action.

The behaviour of that receiver is not described in the eBay page.

There may be a jumper setting on the receiver board to select between momentary and toggle behaviour. Did you get any documentation with it? Are there any jumpers on the board (apart from the code setting jumpers)? What markings do they have? Try changing them and seeing what happens (make a note of how they were set before you change them).

 

[tenmen]

I have nothing, My last circuit had a jumper etc, but when I wired it I didnt have a problem...This is a new batch, as with the last when you switch on the other light/button the first light switches off....

here is a link to my original circuit:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251450132499?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Can you not tell from the board in the photo what type it is:

 

[KrisBlueNZ]

No, I can't tell from the photo whether the receiver has a momentary or toggle output behaviour.

The eBay page you linked to has a description of behaviour for your old receiver:

working/output way

Jog: press one button is working . loosen your finger on the same button is stop .need one channel switch and one buttons remote control )

Self -lock: press one button for one time is working .press the same button again is stop .(need one channel switch and one buttons remote control

Inter-lock : press one button is working ,press another button is stop . (need one channelswitch and 2 buttons remote control

please notice that here is 2 CH and 2 buttons wireless remote control .you can choose the jog or self-lock output way,press the button is on ,loosen the button is off ,or press the button is on press the button again is off

I guess you want the "self-lock" behaviour.

There is no similar description on the page you linked to in post #3.

You need to contact the seller and ask whether it's possible to change the receiver's behaviour so it uses a "toggle" or "self-lock" logic instead of momentary behaviour. If the receiver can't be changed, then you've just learnt a lesson about buying undocumented products on eBay :-(

 

[tenmen]

Thank you for your help on this....

 

[KrisBlueNZ]

No problem. Good luck!

 

[tenmen]

Kris I now have the new circuit here is the link from where purchased:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251450132499?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I have tried wiring the circuit Channel A to Neg, and B to pos in parellel as its a 12v DC supply, then connected the + and - wires to the LED lights, firstly I am struggling with the learning code if you can help. But when I did connect and pressed the remote a spark occured, I quickly disconnected the Battery and think its wired wrong, when I put a multimeter across B and C are linked so do understand the failure...help help, been at this for days now.,

 

[OLIVE2222]

If you are in UK the 315MHz is not allowed. 312-315 MHz band is reserved for Earth-to-space, see:
http://www.ofcom.org.uk/static/spectrum/fat.html

 

[KrisBlueNZ]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251450132499?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I have tried wiring the circuit Channel A to Neg, and B to pos in parellel as its a 12v DC supply, then connected the + and - wires to the LED lights, firstly I am struggling with the learning code if you can help. But when I did connect and pressed the remote a spark occured, I quickly disconnected the Battery and think its wired wrong, when I put a multimeter across B and C are linked so do understand the failure...help help, been at this for days now.,

Right, you shouldn't connect either of the outputs to +12V and 0V - that means that the output could short out the 12V power supply, hence the spark you saw.

Each output acts as a switch, when you wire to the COM and NO pins. (It doesn't matter which way round.)

Each output should be connected like this:

• One side of the output should connect to +12V supply
  
• Other side of the output should connect to positive side of LED panel
• Negative side of LED panel should connect to 0V rail (negative from the power supply).

The receiver should be set for "self lock" operation on both channels.

I can't advise you about setting the code. The module should have come with documentation, or the seller should be able to email you some documentation. If he can't supply documentation, his product is not suitable for the intended purpose. Unfortunately this is a common problem with cheap products from certain countries that are sold on eBay.

 

[tenmen]

Kris excuse my ignorance could you please explain the connections by refering then as they are on the board, ABC + -. Sorry some of your comments have gone over my head.

I have added a picture of a successfully wired unit I did a while ago........

 

[KrisBlueNZ]

The COM, NO and NC connection names refer to the first picture in post #3.

The pictures in posts #8 and #15 don't show the A, B and C markings. They are shown in the auction page you linked to in post #12 but I don't see anything on that page that says what A, B and C refer to. So I can't tell you which letters to use.

But you need to use two pins on each output. One of those pins needs to connect to +12V and the other pin needs to connect to the positive wire of a strip light, with the negative wire of the strip light connected to 0V (the negative terminal of the power source). If you do that, you shouldn't have any problems with shorting out and sparking.

If you can take a closeup of the underside of the board, with the tracks clearly visible, I may be able to tell you which letters (two letters from A, B and C) you should use.

 

[tenmen]

Kris

Sorry for the lack of pictures, there is also a link in the last post (#13) to the item on ebay that has a good description and pictures, but here are a few more. I have used this circuit before successfully but just cant understand why I am having trouble wiring it

 

[KrisBlueNZ]

Try this. If the panels are ON when they should be OFF, and vice versa, move the positive wires coming from the panels from connection A to connection C.