Circuit board repair glue that can stand soldering temperature?

[larry moe 'n curly]

Is there some kind of glue that can bond copper to fiberglass and
withstand the heat of a soldering iron? I have to glue some copper
strips to a board and can't just draw new traces with a silver ink pen
(really I can't, so don't suggest it or ask why). I've tried slow and
fast cure epoxies, super glue, and JB Weld, but all of them melt almost
instantly when I touch the soldering tip to them. The JB Weld lasts
slightly longer, so there must be some kind of epoxy that will work.

Exactly what glue (brand & part no. would be nice) do companies that do
fancy circuit board repairs use? I mean repairs like rebuilding areas
that have been chomped off completely.

 

[K `Sleep]

I don't think that there are too many places hat repair circuit boards that
have been "chomped off", most would just replace the board.
I have had some luck with 2 part marine epoxy, that can be purchased from
Home Depot. You will still need to be a bit conservative with the heat of
the soldering though.
Kim

 

[Lawrence]

I'm a flight simulator tech working on military simulators.We used to use a
visual system that would really fry certain parts of the circuit boards.
I'm talking enough crispy critters that at times we had to cut out a hole
about the size of a quarter or slightly larger and rebuild the board. We
used just regular 5-minute epoxy which we mixed in some circuit board
fibres we scrapped off old garbaged circuit boards. That filled in the hole
and by the next day everything would be good and dry so we would use the
minichine attachment of the Pace kit to grind/sand that area flat with the
board again. We would lay out the circuit traces with more 5-minute epoxy
and once that was dry we would use "Print Kote" conformal coating to seal
the new traces to the repaired area. If there were any solder pads that we
replaced with didn't cover those over the coating. The same for where we
had to overlap traces. We would use a very small iron to solder to those
areas or we would use hot air. It all worked great and we never had any
problems. It may seem a bit of a chore to do it this way but when you get a
10" x 10" board that is worth (supposedly) $37,000.00 then you don't mind
spending a bit of time fixing one.

Cheers,
Lawrence

 

[petrus bitbyter]

Is there some kind of glue that can bond copper to fiberglass and
withstand the heat of a soldering iron? I have to glue some copper
strips to a board and can't just draw new traces with a silver ink pen
(really I can't, so don't suggest it or ask why). I've tried slow and
fast cure epoxies, super glue, and JB Weld, but all of them melt almost
instantly when I touch the soldering tip to them. The JB Weld lasts
slightly longer, so there must be some kind of epoxy that will work.

Exactly what glue (brand & part no. would be nice) do companies that do
fancy circuit board repairs use? I mean repairs like rebuilding areas
that have been chomped off completely.

Some years ago I ran into a type of glue or kit meant to repair car exhaust
tubes. Did not see it again but you may try a car specialist shop. They will
also sell screen heater repair glue but I understand you tried this already.

Some DIY shops overhere sell heater repair kit, meant to repair stoves,
fireplaces, barbecues and so on. Maybe to thick for you application but you
can give it a try...

petrus bitbyter

 

[Jim Yanik]

I'm a flight simulator tech working on military simulators.We used to
use a visual system that would really fry certain parts of the circuit
boards. I'm talking enough crispy critters that at times we had to cut
out a hole about the size of a quarter or slightly larger and rebuild
the board. We used just regular 5-minute epoxy which we mixed in some
circuit board fibres we scrapped off old garbaged circuit boards. That
filled in the hole and by the next day everything would be good and
dry so we would use the minichine attachment of the Pace kit to
grind/sand that area flat with the board again. We would lay out the
circuit traces with more 5-minute epoxy and once that was dry we would
use "Print Kote" conformal coating to seal the new traces to the
repaired area. If there were any solder pads that we replaced with
didn't cover those over the coating. The same for where we had to
overlap traces. We would use a very small iron to solder to those
areas or we would use hot air. It all worked great and we never had
any problems. It may seem a bit of a chore to do it this way but when
you get a 10" x 10" board that is worth (supposedly) $37,000.00 then
you don't mind spending a bit of time fixing one.

Cheers,
Lawrence

I used to fill in holes from burned components(while at TEK) with
epoxy,Dremel them flat and level,drill lead holes,and then used an eyelet
kit to hold down the new traces at the solder pads.
After soldering in the new part,I would use clear nailpolish to coat the
new PCB traces if necessary.

 

[Ron(UK)]

Is there some kind of glue that can bond copper to fiberglass and
withstand the heat of a soldering iron? I have to glue some copper
strips to a board and can't just draw new traces with a silver ink pen
(really I can't, so don't suggest it or ask why). I've tried slow and
fast cure epoxies, super glue, and JB Weld, but all of them melt almost
instantly when I touch the soldering tip to them. The JB Weld lasts
slightly longer, so there must be some kind of epoxy that will work.

Exactly what glue (brand & part no. would be nice) do companies that do
fancy circuit board repairs use? I mean repairs like rebuilding areas
that have been chomped off completely.

I remember a self adhesive copper tape that was specially made for
prototyping circuit boards. RS Components sold it here in the UK. That
was solderable and would probably fit your purpose if still available.


Ron(UK)

 

[Ron(UK)]

I remember a self adhesive copper tape that was specially made for
prototyping circuit boards. RS Components sold it here in the UK. That
was solderable and would probably fit your purpose if still available.


Ron(UK)

Something like this for example
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p56.htm

Ron(UK)

 

[Lawrence]

Oops, that's right too. I forgot to mention the eyelets and funlets for the
new solder pads. Thanks for the reminder.

Cheers,
Lawrence

 

[James F. Mayer]

Is there some kind of glue that can bond copper to fiberglass and
withstand the heat of a soldering iron? I have to glue some copper
strips to a board and can't just draw new traces with a silver ink pen
(really I can't, so don't suggest it or ask why). I've tried slow and
fast cure epoxies, super glue, and JB Weld, but all of them melt almost
instantly when I touch the soldering tip to them. The JB Weld lasts
slightly longer, so there must be some kind of epoxy that will work.

Exactly what glue (brand & part no. would be nice) do companies that do
fancy circuit board repairs use? I mean repairs like rebuilding areas
that have been chomped off completely.

Yes. Loctite 608 Hysol used to be called Epoxi-Patch available from
Wassco. It was used at Raytheon on government boards and at Jabil Circuit.

 

[Jim Yanik]

Oops, that's right too. I forgot to mention the eyelets and funlets
for the new solder pads. Thanks for the reminder.

Cheers,
Lawrence

Our field office had a Pace(IIRC) device that would set (and weld,if
desired) the eyelets on a PCB,it was handy and easier to use than
handholding an eyelet punch and anvil.
The device was U-shaped,and had collets for holding the conical punches for
setting eyelets,one fixed,and one that would screw in to set the
eyelet.There was a hi-current transformer in the base for the welding
current,connected to the collets by heavy copper braids.

 

[Jim Yanik]

Yes. Loctite 608 Hysol used to be called Epoxi-Patch available
from
Wassco. It was used at Raytheon on government boards and at Jabil
Circuit.

I still have a box of clear 608 Epoxy-Patch that I used at TEK,but it's
labelled Dexter Corp,Seabrook,NH. It has a 3 minute setting time,sometimes
even quicker. The box says 1 min to mix,2 mins to use(for best results).
It's probably outdated by now.
I would not expect it to hold down copper traces before soldering,though.

I suspect Locktite bought the Dexter Corp?

 

[Fred McKenzie]

Is there some kind of glue that can bond copper to fiberglass and
withstand the heat of a soldering iron? I have to glue some copper
strips to a board and can't just draw new traces with a silver ink pen
(really I can't, so don't suggest it or ask why). I've tried slow and
fast cure epoxies, super glue, and JB Weld, but all of them melt almost
instantly when I touch the soldering tip to them. The JB Weld lasts
slightly longer, so there must be some kind of epoxy that will work.

LMC-

Others have given some good advice. Follow up on their leads and you may
find companies that have repair products that will do what you need.

One thing though, soldering is a process that will even ruin the original
circuit board material if you're not careful. In your situation, I'd find
some way to solder FIRST and then apply whatever epoxy or other adhesive
was needed to secure the copper strips.

Fred

 

[James F. Mayer]

I still have a box of clear 608 Epoxy-Patch that I used at TEK,but it's
labelled Dexter Corp,Seabrook,NH. It has a 3 minute setting time,sometimes
even quicker. The box says 1 min to mix,2 mins to use(for best results).
It's probably outdated by now.
I would not expect it to hold down copper traces before soldering,though.

The repair people at Raytheon and Jabil Circuit used it all the time
for just that. I've cut copper strip and constructed rough "PC" boards with
the stuff to hold it to the proto board. Seems to work all right.

I suspect Locktite bought the Dexter Corp?

I believe that is correct. I have some old tubes of 608 Epoxi-Patch
that expired in 1993 that have "Dexter" on them also. I bought some new
recently as I was doing some patch antenna bonding to some FR4 and making
"rough" "one of" proto boards.

 

[larry moe 'n curly]

I don't think that there are too many places hat repair circuit boards that
have been "chomped off", most would just replace the board.

For some reason, I once received a flyer from a company that claimed it
could repair all kinds of extensive damage, including plated-through
holes in multilayer boards and sections that had cracked or were lost.
The before & after pictures they showed made the boards look like new
again.

I have had some luck with 2 part marine epoxy, that can be purchased from
Home Depot. You will still need to be a bit conservative with the heat of
the soldering though.

How many seconds can it stand a soldering iron. I did what I thought
was a nice repair, but the instant the iron touched the copper, the
glue turned to water.

 

[larry moe 'n curly]

"larry moe 'n curly" <[email protected]> schreef in bericht

Some years ago I ran into a type of glue or kit meant to repair car exhaust
tubes. Did not see it again but you may try a car specialist shop. They will
also sell screen heater repair glue but I understand you tried this already.

Some DIY shops overhere sell heater repair kit, meant to repair stoves,
fireplaces, barbecues and so on. Maybe to thick for you application but you
can give it a try...

Great idea. Thanks. I remember Dad once using a muffler bandage on an
exhaust manifold and ended up with a charcoal-covered manifold.

 

[none]

For some reason, I once received a flyer from a company that claimed it
could repair all kinds of extensive damage, including plated-through
holes in multilayer boards and sections that had cracked or were lost.
The before & after pictures they showed made the boards look like new
again.


How many seconds can it stand a soldering iron. I did what I thought
was a nice repair, but the instant the iron touched the copper, the
glue turned to water.

I use crazy glue (cyanoacylate).
Don't try and solder the copper back together, too much heat is
required and will damage the board itself.
Use strands of wire and jumper across the cracked sections.
I use strands from some 12 gauge stainless steel wire that I have,
though regular copper will do.
Use a dremel and a very fine drill bit to drill holes in the copper
plating on either side of the crack and use a low watt gun(25-30
watts) and a good grade of flux. I also use a pure silver solder, it
seems to melt a bit easier and grabs much better and faster.
Can be gotten in the plumbing section of most hardware stores and at
jewelery supply shops.
Usually two or three strands of the stainless wire are sufficient to
restore conductivity.
On finer areas of copper circuit I usually use an xacto and "rough" up
the surface so as to get a better grip for the solder.( on the narrow
strip patterns on the board that are too fine to allow for drilling.)
Alway scrape lightly and in a single direction, i.e. in the direction
of the crack. So as not to pull up the copper plating.
If you wind up with an excessive nmber of jumper wires in close
proximity and are worried about arcing or cross shorting use either
liquid silicone or hot glue on the jumpers as an insulator.
Most patches will look like something doctor Frankenstein concocted
but will restore the board to functional use.
I've restored several audio power amp boards in this fashion and all
are still going strong.

 

[Jim Yanik]

Great idea. Thanks. I remember Dad once using a muffler bandage on
an exhaust manifold and ended up with a charcoal-covered manifold.

I would worry about what fillers are used and how electrically-conductive
they might be,for the muffler bandage or any home-improvement epoxy.