Cassette Tape Player

[indago]

I am working on a JVC Model UX-RT1 combo CD player, audio cassette player,
AM/FM stereo radio system. The system works with a remote and has a lot of
motor drives. The cassette player head does not engage the tape, although
the tape drive works and the tape moves at playing speed and fast forward.
The tape head system is on a moving plate that also engages the pinch
rollers, which also do not engage. I have removed the mechanism from the
case and have encountered a flat cable from the tape head mechanism to the
audio board on a connector marked CN301. In the Service Manual it indicates
to "disconnect" the flat cable from the connector. I attempted to just pull
it out of the connector, but it doesn't come easily and I don't want to
break anything; these connectors seem to be so fragile. How does this flat
cable connect into the connector, and what does it take to get it out?

 

[Mark]

I am working on a JVC Model UX-RT1 combo CD player, audio cassette player,
AM/FM stereo radio system. The system works with a remote and has a lot of
motor drives. The cassette player head does not engage the tape, although
the tape drive works and the tape moves at playing speed and fast forward.
The tape head system is on a moving plate that also engages the pinch
rollers, which also do not engage. I have removed the mechanism from the
case and have encountered a flat cable from the tape head mechanism to the
audio board on a connector marked CN301. In the Service Manual it indicates
to "disconnect" the flat cable from the connector. I attempted to just pull
it out of the connector, but it doesn't come easily and I don't want to
break anything; these connectors seem to be so fragile. How does this flat
cable connect into the connector, and what does it take to get it out?

If you look closely at the connector, it will have a little
ear at each end. Gently pry upward on these ears, and the
"top" of the connector should pop up about 1/8". This is
actually a wedge-shaped piece that normally holds the ribbon
cable in the connector. This piece is NOT designed to
detach. Don't pry too hard.
--
Mark

The truth as I perceive it to be.
Your perception may be different.

Triple Z is spam control.

 

[indago]

If you look closely at the connector, it will have a little
ear at each end. Gently pry upward on these ears, and the
"top" of the connector should pop up about 1/8". This is
actually a wedge-shaped piece that normally holds the ribbon
cable in the connector. This piece is NOT designed to
detach. Don't pry too hard.

The CN301 connector doesn't have any "ears" on it and no visible signs of a
hinge or split for raising the top to release the flat ribbon cable. It
would much facilitate the repair of the tape drive mechanism if I could
disconnect this ribbon cable from the audio boards cluster. I don't want to
break this cable.

 

[WEBPA]

The CN301 connector doesn't have any "ears" on it and no visible signs of a
hinge or split for raising the top to release the flat ribbon cable. It
would much facilitate the repair of the tape drive mechanism if I could
disconnect this ribbon cable from the audio boards cluster. I don't want to
break this cable.

If the manual says "disconnect", then it disconnects. You're going to have to
use a fairly strong magnifying lens to inspect the connector and find the right
place to release the latch. They are often virtually invisible.
webpa

 

[indago]

If the manual says "disconnect", then it disconnects. You're going to have to
use a fairly strong magnifying lens to inspect the connector and find the
right
place to release the latch. They are often virtually invisible.
webpa

Yes, I did that, and used a strong, bright light too, and can see nothing
that will indicate that the connector is hinged, or latched; no breaks in
the plastic. It looks like the ribbon tape conductor was pushed into the
connector, but I don't see any way that it can be released.

 

[L1ange bleu]

Some of these ribbon cables are just pushed in to connect or push out to
disconnect while others will have the two little ears on the sides that can be
pried out to release the cable. In your case, I think it is the "pushed in"
type, therefore wou'll have to wiggle it a little to the sides and see if you
can get it loose...To connect, just push in with little pressure until the
cable sits properly in its contacts.
Let me know of yours findings.
Alphie

 

[indago]

Some of these ribbon cables are just pushed in to connect or push out to
disconnect while others will have the two little ears on the sides that can be
pried out to release the cable. In your case, I think it is the "pushed in"
type, therefore wou'll have to wiggle it a little to the sides and see if you
can get it loose...To connect, just push in with little pressure until the
cable sits properly in its contacts.
Let me know of yours findings.
Alphie

Yes, that worked out just fine. I had tugged on this ribbon cable before
and it didn't seem to want to come out of the connector, and I thought that
it was latched in somehow and didn't want to tear it up trying to get it
out. After tugging a little on one side, and then the other, it slid out of
the connector. With this ribbon cable disconnected, I set the amplifier
board aside and removed the head slide plate from the drive plate and found
a broken plastic finger that is supposed to protrude into a cam on the
motorized head engager. I will have to either purchase a new plastic head
base, or find some way to superglue a new piece onto what is there.

Thanks a bunch...