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Remove _ for valid address
I'm trying to fix a Canon digital camera that got slightly wet
in one corner. On disassembly, it looks as if only one corner
of the rearmost PCB got wet, slight corrosion is evident there.
It appears fully functional apart from the backlight not being
on. One can take pictures, view them via a TV etc, also see a
slight image on the LCD if one illuminates it externally. So
I think the backlight is the only problem to fix.
The LCD panel is marked Sony ACX336AKB-7 and 637A35F. The
front half is the LCD glass, leaving the entire backlight
"layer" only 1.2mm thick. This seems rather thin to me to
incorporate a CCFL tube (as a laptop display would). Is this
more likely to be some other light emitting technology? Or
do they really make CCFL tubes that tiny?
There is a 2-wire flex from the backlight layer to the PCB.
The wires are somewhat spaced out, suggesting reasonably
high voltage? A meter shows infinite resistance between the
two backlight wires. So presumably it's not LED based.
The driver circuit is somewhat hard to trace. (Anyone know of
a source for a schematic... ;-) So far I've traced it back
to a SOT23 sized 5-pin thing:
'large'
_ _____ _ inductor
drive?->--|_| |_|b-------@@@@@-----+------->
| XH |_ _|_ backlight
| 6 |_|GND 'tiny' ___ ?-->
_| G4 |_ cap |
a|_|_____|_|Vcc GND
I think "a" connects to "b" under the chip.
Where the second backlight terminal goes is a mystery, I
can't manage to find continuity to anywhere. I wondered if
it might have a series cap to GND (many CCFL invertors have
a small series cap to the tube) possibly implemented as PCB
copper layers? Or maybe it's just failed open. :-(
Has anyone any clues on this circuit? What is the SMT
chip for example? I looked up XH and G4 on several lists, but
none of the lists I checked mapped it even to a 5-pin device.
Does this look like a typical way to drive any known
electroluminescent panel? I presume the inductor and cap
form a series-resonant circuit, thus giving a much higher
voltage across them than the supply (which is probably 2.4V
straight from the 2xAA NiCd batteries).
Any help would be most welcome!
Thanks,
Mike
in one corner. On disassembly, it looks as if only one corner
of the rearmost PCB got wet, slight corrosion is evident there.
It appears fully functional apart from the backlight not being
on. One can take pictures, view them via a TV etc, also see a
slight image on the LCD if one illuminates it externally. So
I think the backlight is the only problem to fix.
The LCD panel is marked Sony ACX336AKB-7 and 637A35F. The
front half is the LCD glass, leaving the entire backlight
"layer" only 1.2mm thick. This seems rather thin to me to
incorporate a CCFL tube (as a laptop display would). Is this
more likely to be some other light emitting technology? Or
do they really make CCFL tubes that tiny?
There is a 2-wire flex from the backlight layer to the PCB.
The wires are somewhat spaced out, suggesting reasonably
high voltage? A meter shows infinite resistance between the
two backlight wires. So presumably it's not LED based.
The driver circuit is somewhat hard to trace. (Anyone know of
a source for a schematic... ;-) So far I've traced it back
to a SOT23 sized 5-pin thing:
'large'
_ _____ _ inductor
drive?->--|_| |_|b-------@@@@@-----+------->
| XH |_ _|_ backlight
| 6 |_|GND 'tiny' ___ ?-->
_| G4 |_ cap |
a|_|_____|_|Vcc GND
I think "a" connects to "b" under the chip.
Where the second backlight terminal goes is a mystery, I
can't manage to find continuity to anywhere. I wondered if
it might have a series cap to GND (many CCFL invertors have
a small series cap to the tube) possibly implemented as PCB
copper layers? Or maybe it's just failed open. :-(
Has anyone any clues on this circuit? What is the SMT
chip for example? I looked up XH and G4 on several lists, but
none of the lists I checked mapped it even to a 5-pin device.
Does this look like a typical way to drive any known
electroluminescent panel? I presume the inductor and cap
form a series-resonant circuit, thus giving a much higher
voltage across them than the supply (which is probably 2.4V
straight from the 2xAA NiCd batteries).
Any help would be most welcome!
Thanks,
Mike