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adjusting the LM317LZ IC

How do I adjust the LM317LZ for 1.25V 50mA output 5 -18V input. I'm trying to light a 1.5V 50 mA incandescent light bulb with a constant voltage on my model railroad even though the track voltage will not be constant.
 
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(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Nah, he possibly wants a lower voltage to make the bulb look the right colour and brightness.

An LM317 is a native 1.25V regulator. So simply connect it up just like any other 3 terminal regulator and bingo -- 1.25 volts :)

And welcome to Electronics Point Prov.
 
OK, that would be great if I knew how to hook up any 3 terminal regulator. The last time I fooled with electronics was in the Air Force in 1962. A lot has changed since then!
 
Nah, he possibly wants a lower voltage to make the bulb look the right colour and brightness.

An LM317 is a native 1.25V regulator. So simply connect it up just like any other 3 terminal regulator and bingo -- 1.25 volts :)

And welcome to Electronics Point Prov.

Don't you need the 240 ohm for the reference to work properly, even with no load? I don't really know, but I would think it would get a bit restless on a capacitive load only. Might not be a problem on an incandescent lamp?

TOK ;)
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
OK, that would be great if I knew how to hook up any 3 terminal regulator. The last time I fooled with electronics was in the Air Force in 1962. A lot has changed since then!

The best thing to do is to get a datasheet for the device (just google). It will show you all you need to do (and vastly more). In essence the input pin connects to the input +ve, the output pin connects to your load, and the adj pin is connected to the common ground for your input voltage and load. (this is for a non-adjustable 1.25V regulator)

See Gorgon's point above and my response below however. If your lamp is always attached, you will have no problems. If you have something to switch it on and off then a 240 ohm resistor between the output pin and the adj pin (ground) will ensure that your output voltage remains stable.

Yes, it certainly does, THANKS, but what about the current? What kind of current is it putting out at l.48V?

The 317 is a voltage regulator. It will not limit current unless it gets to a limit which causes it to go into shutdown. This means something over an amp, or when it gets very hot.

Depending on your load (what is it -- a lamp?) this won't matter. The lam p will only draw a very small current. The 317 can (not will) provide more than that, so it's OK.

Another important factor is the dropout voltage. At low currents it may be about 1.2V. This means your input voltage has to be higher than your required output voltage by this amount or more. Typically we'd say it's 2 volts. So you need 3.25V input to get a goos 1.25 output.

Don't you need the 240 ohm for the reference to work properly,

That's true of any three terminal regulator really, but moreso for the adjustable ones because they aim to have a current through the adj pin that is close to zero (where the fixed regs do not.

Input and output capacitors are likewise a good thing.
 
Hi again ??? I used all the appropriate resistors (R1 = 330 & R2=68) soldered to the appropriate pins for 1.5 Volts and the output V is reading 8.5 volts when the input voltage is about 11! What in the world gives? I thought the IC might be screwed up, so I tried a different one with the same results. I even went to 1K on R1 and the voltage went up. With the flat side up I'm using the pin configuration of: 1=Adjust, 3=out, 2=in. Any suggestions?
 
Depends on the package. If you use a TO220, you have the flat side down on the table, the screw hole up, and the pins down towards you. The correct pinout from the left to the rigth is: ADJ, VOUT, VIN.

Should be rather simple if you take a look at a datasheet.

TOK ;)
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
ProvidenceFarm -- Arm yourself with a datasheet before you do *ANYTHING*

Check out page 2 for the pinouts.

Figure 1 on page 9 tells you how to select resistors, the Iadj*R2 term can typically be ignored. Vref is 1.25V as mentioned in the paragraph above.

Note that the output is 1.25V if R2 is zero (i.e. replaced with a wire). This will give you the 1.25V you originally desired.

Note that at the end of the datasheet there are more complex circuits, one is for a current limited voltage source (so you can set both voltage and maximum current. I do not believe you need this, but that's how you do it.
 
LM317 is junk!

I have tried EVERY SINGLE THING that every one sent me and I really appreciate your input.
I have tried everything that the tech sheets mention. I have come to the conclusion that the LM317 is a piece of crap. I hook every thing up, put the juice to it, test it with a volt meter, I get 1.44V (good so far, right?) then increase the input from about 11V to 15V and the volt meter then reads 5V out put approx. as it appears to fluctuate. They never do return to the 1.44V again. I've use 3 different LM317s and they all do the same thing. It appears they are just to damn delicate! I hope they're not using any of these in our aircraft!

Greg
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
LM317's are very rugged and very reliable.

You are doing something wrong.

Show us the circuit diagram you're following and a picture of what you've done.

You may be getting the pins confused (people have done that many times before)
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
This is what you should have started off with:

attachment.php


Note that the tab is also connected to Vout, so don't connect that to anything that could short out.

During your testing, the current should not exceed a couple of mA (it should be well under 1 mA), and nothing should get the slightest bit warm.
 

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