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adding a second remote on a 12V winch

Hey guys,
i'm wiring a 12v winch for a project and wanted to add a second remote to operate it. I want the winch to be operated by only one remote at a time (if someone pushes up on one remote and down on the other i wont blow the winch). the remote as three position: up/down/open, the up and down are just a switch in polarity, and open is an open loop. Could somebody help me wire a second remote please. The winch is a superwinch LT

thanks guys
 
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If you want it to operate with only one remote at a time is a 'key' that you move from remote to remote a possibility, as this is the common way it's done?

Next how many wires to your remote? And do you know what one of those wires is hooked directly to the battery + terminal, not the control box?
 
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If you want it to operate with only one remote at a time is a 'key' that you move from remote to remote a possibility, as this is the common way it's done?

Next how many wires to your remote? And do you know what one of those wires is hooked directly to the battery + terminal, not the control box?

there is a red and black going to the remote from the battery and another red and black going to each pole of the winch. The remote switches the +12v from red to black depending if you want to pull or push the cable.
 
For that design I would key both the wires going to the winch, remove the key and in all essence that remote is no longer hooked up, so there will be no shorts or collisions...

You would need two DPST keyed switches that can handle the current of your winch...

Also are you sure it's hooked up this way? Most winch remotes just toggle a control box that has solenoids in it that do the switching so that the load on the switches is minimal... The way you describe works but it puts and incredible load on the switch itself...
 
A keyed switch is a switch that requires a key to function, but I doubt you will find many keyed switches that will support the current you are going to require, you will likely have to fashion your own unless you luck out and find something...

Have you considered using plugs, and swapping the remote itself from location to location instead of two remotes?
 
A keyed switch is a switch that requires a key to function, but I doubt you will find many keyed switches that will support the current you are going to require, you will likely have to fashion your own unless you luck out and find something...

Have you considered using plugs, and swapping the remote itself from location to location instead of two remotes?

I've thought of many things ;-), but the client wants two remote so he doesn't have to go inside
 
I've thought of many things ;-), but the client wants two remote so he doesn't have to go inside

That doesn't answer my question, if you put a plug on the winch and he/she was able to simply unplug at the winch and plug in the new remote... Then do his/her thing at that location and then swap and go about business as normal, would that work?

Due to the design you need to totally isolate the two remotes from each other or there is a real potential to directly short the battery trough one of the two remotes if they are used at the same time, best case a fuse blows, worse case the wires glow red hot, melt and start a fire or the battery explodes...
 

CDRIVE

Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3
There is another option but it's not as simple as adding a key switch or a quick disconnect as has been suggested. It would require a separate control box with logic, relays or SSR's and power supply. The remotes would tie into the control box and the control box would connect to the motor. You mentioned "client" so this may be viable if the other two suggestions are unacceptable to the client.

I'm curious.. The photo of the remote shows a small rectangular device with two stud terminals. Is that a current (thermal) overload breaker?

By the way, these controls are not called remotes by the industry but I forgot what they're called. Anyone??

Chris
 
There is another option but it's not as simple as adding a key switch or a quick disconnect as has been suggested. It would require a separate control box with logic, relays or SSR's and power supply. The remotes would tie into the control box and the control box would connect to the motor. You mentioned "client" so this may be viable if the other two suggestions are unacceptable to the client.

I'm curious.. The photo of the remote shows a small rectangular device with two stud terminals. Is that a current (thermal) overload breaker?

By the way, these controls are not called remotes by the industry but I forgot what they're called. Anyone??

Chris

Yes its a 50amp fuse, is there a way you could draw me a quick schematic of the control box? Thanks alot guys, i'll post a pic of the diagram i was thinking about, but still there is a switch inside or outside
 
Would that work
dd723111.jpg
 
It appears it will, that is basically doing exactly what I described using a relay vs a keyed switch, the problem is finding a reliable 50 Amp (75 Amp or more would be suggested) 12 Volt relay...

It would require a separate control box with logic, relays or SSR's and power supply.

This is how most winches operate, the hand held control just flips starter solenoids in a control box... It really simplifies the swapping out as you are now just dealing with switching the low current hand helds, and that is usually just breaking the ground (hot) to each one...
 

CDRIVE

Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3
Actually, I was thinking of something with intelligence, IE, no manual transfer switch. CC has a good point though. They have to be beefy relays. I'm a bit astounded that that handset drives that motor directly!
 
Actually, I was thinking of something with intelligence

Yeah, that would be ideal... Still easier to implement if you are starting out with and only switching solenoid control lines vs the load lines...

I'm a bit astounded that that handset drives that motor directly!

So am I, it's really a horrible way to do it, but I suspect it saves them a few pennies vs the alternative and thus they jump on it...
 

CDRIVE

Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3
Yes CC, I agree. That circuit is workably simple if his client will be happy with it. Not that I would recommend using a smaller relay than 75A but in his design the relay contacts aren't doing any live switching which will reduce the demands on the contacts considerably.

Late here and need to hit the sack.

Chris
 
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